Help sourcing wire and cable

[Phil B]

I have a Anker alternator charger to install in the rear of my Bronco. I want to run parallel wires to install a power bus in the cargo area. Where can I find the cable for this? I'm looking for cables already in a loom. Not sure of the wire size yet, thoughts on that? A fuse and Anderson connector at the battery would be a bonus, those will be part of the install.

I have also been looking for 10 gauge solid copper primary automotive wire, preferably black and white paired.

I already have cables run for other accessories and an amp so I may have to go down the passenger side because I'm out of room on the drivers side. I've removed my plastic trim, molle panels, shelves, etc. so many times already. I'm hoping I can plan this out so I don't have to do it again anytime soon.

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[Tonka Bronka]

I have a Anker alternator charger to install in the rear of my Bronco. I want to run parallel wires to install a power bus in the cargo area. Where can I find the cable for this? I'm looking for cables already in a loom. Not sure of the wire size yet, thoughts on that? A fuse and Anderson connector at the battery would be a bonus, those will be part of the install.

I have also been looking for 10 gauge solid copper primary automotive wire, preferably black and white paired.

I already have cables run for other accessories and an amp so I may have to go down the passenger side because I'm out of room on the drivers side. I've removed my plastic trim, molle panels, shelves, etc. so many times already. I'm hoping I can plan this out so I don't have to do it again anytime soon.

Try Powerwerx.

 

[SierraBronco]

I’ve bought from these guys. No aluminum.

https://spartanpower.com/product-ca...7wyhO7fcgRnAGDixDQcXnc0O14IWaDT6R3J1wUGqyrMqj

 

[Q1svt]

I like McMasters … they provide a lot of detail on each product … including country of origin

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/wire/

 

[Brian_B]

You don't want solid wire - that stuff is really hard to work with., especially with the larger cable sizes. Stranded is what you want (and more strands are better - more flexible and higher current capacity, but quality crimps become much more critical)

All of the above are good sources. Convention for DC power is Red (+) Black (-), white (N) black (Hot) are convention for AC power -- but there's no law that says you must follow that, just that the black color gets somewhat confusing if you hand it off to someone not familiar with how it installed.

 

[SierraBronco]

You don't want solid wire - that stuff is really hard to work with., especially with the larger cable sizes. Stranded is what you want (and more strands are better - more flexible and higher current capacity, but quality crimps become much more critical)

All of the above are good sources. Convention for DC power is Red (+) Black (-), white (N) black (Hot) are convention for AC power -- but there's no law that says you must follow that, just that the black color gets somewhat confusing if you hand it off to someone not familiar with how it installed.

A hexagonal crimper changed my life when it came to girthy wires.

 

[Brian_B]

A hexagonal crimper changed my life when it came to girthy wires.

I have an inexpensive hydraulic one I use for anything bigger than #10, and it was cheaper than a set of pre-crimped cables. Much easier to run cable when it doesn't have ends on it already, and don't have to worry about trying to tie up excess cable somewhere - can custom-cut everything to fit.

Some crimpers are brand-specific, and you need to use the correct lugs with the crimper. Just pay attention to what you are getting. I have a Thomas&Betts ratcheting crimper that is like that.

I do need to get one for stupid connector pins, I don't have a proper crimper for those yet.

 

[SierraBronco]

I have an inexpensive hydraulic one I use for anything bigger than #10, and it was cheaper than a set of pre-crimped cables. Much easier to run cable when it doesn't have ends on it already, and don't have to worry about trying to tie up excess cable somewhere - can custom-cut everything to fit.

Some crimpers are brand-specific, and you need to use the correct lugs with the crimper. Just pay attention to what you are getting. I have a Thomas&Betts ratcheting crimper that is like that.

I do need to get one for stupid connector pins, I don't have a proper crimper for those yet.

I just picked one of those up. Have yet to use it though.

 

[23_Badlands]

I have a Anker alternator charger to install in the rear of my Bronco. I want to run parallel wires to install a power bus in the cargo area. Where can I find the cable for this? I'm looking for cables already in a loom. Not sure of the wire size yet, thoughts on that? A fuse and Anderson connector at the battery would be a bonus, those will be part of the install.

I have also been looking for 10 gauge solid copper primary automotive wire, preferably black and white paired . . . .

If you go this route, measure very, very carefully. We have a full assortment of cable, wire, looms, terminals, connectors and various hydraulic crimpers in our garage and it's still takes some doing to get things to fit right.

Not sure which model Anker you have. Some of these Anker units are rated around 60-80a. You mentioned using 10 gauge wire. If your Anker is one of these 60-80a units, 60-80a exceeds the ampacity of 10 gauge wire. Depending on the length of your run, I personally wouldn't use anything less than 4 gauge, ideally 2 gauge.

 

[CalvinT]

I’ve bought from these guys. No aluminum.

https://spartanpower.com/product-ca...7wyhO7fcgRnAGDixDQcXnc0O14IWaDT6R3J1wUGqyrMqj

I'd be careful about their quick disconnects. They look like Anderson connectors but don't have any brand marks. Many of the look-alike connectors won't mate up with other brands.

These people sell cables and Anderson connectors.

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/?srsltid=AfmBOooqDXfFcqedhhzrULtDjdvOvexLFFojlXrOLk3YOgKME2hdFF4a

 

[CalvinT]

If you go this route, measure very, very carefully.

I run rope over the planned route then measure the lenght of the rope before ordering wire.

 

[23_Badlands]

I run rope over the planned route then measure the lenght of the rope before ordering wire.

For smaller gauge wire this may work. For larger gauge *cable* with their limited bend radius, not so much.

 

[indio22]

I have an inexpensive hydraulic one I use for anything bigger than #10, and it was cheaper than a set of pre-crimped cables. Much easier to run cable when it doesn't have ends on it already, and don't have to worry about trying to tie up excess cable somewhere - can custom-cut everything to fit.

Some crimpers are brand-specific, and you need to use the correct lugs with the crimper. Just pay attention to what you are getting. I have a Thomas&Betts ratcheting crimper that is like that.

I do need to get one for stupid connector pins, I don't have a proper crimper for those yet.

Do you or anyone have a specific recommendation on a budget crimper model? I need to get one for my 4 gauge amp power wire install. Reviews of various models online are all over the map.

Also when selecting wire, another thing to consider is the type of sheathing. Specifically some outer sheathing stinks ... literally. I've got a nose like a bloodhound and have had to return several items due to smelly plastic off gassing. Unfortunately it's difficult to know if rubber/plastic stinks until giving it the sniff test.

 

[Phil B]

If you go this route, measure very, very carefully. We have a full assortment of cable, wire, looms, terminals, connectors and various hydraulic crimpers in our garage and it's still takes some doing to get things to fit right.

Not sure which model Anker you have. Some of these Anker units are rated around 60-80a. You mentioned using 10 gauge wire. If your Anker is one of these 60-80a units, 60-80a exceeds the ampacity of 10 gauge wire. Depending on the length of your run, I personally wouldn't use anything less than 4 gauge, ideally 2 gauge.

I'm installing the 800 watt alternator charger that was just released. It comes with it's own wiring harness to the battery. The 10 gauge is for power to other things. (That may attach to the power point I want to build.)

 

[Phil B]

You don't want solid wire - that stuff is really hard to work with., especially with the larger cable sizes. Stranded is what you want (and more strands are better - more flexible and higher current capacity, but quality crimps become much more critical)

All of the above are good sources. Convention for DC power is Red (+) Black (-), white (N) black (Hot) are convention for AC power -- but there's no law that says you must follow that, just that the black color gets somewhat confusing if you hand it off to someone not familiar with how it installed.

I'm an (all trades) ICC certified building inspector. Picky about my builds, and know a few things about wiring. I would like to make the power point for 100 amps. That's probably more than I would ever need, 1/0 wire is large to run and expensive. On the fence about running #2 or #4 instead.

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