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[How-To] FORScan Audio/Speaker Mods

tokyo

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Another happy beneficiary of your instruction!

This is what I ended up with. on my'23 Base 2-door with sub delete

Replaced dash and pods with Infinity reference 4" with no bass blockers and added Kicker 6.75 with fusion amp.

Where I veered a bit is in Forscan I turned dash/kick to speaker (not speaker/tweeter) just to see what would happen and it works fine. Not sure if I notice a difference between that and speaker tweeter.. but it definitely works.

I tried with 150HZ bass blockers and without. These little Infinity's pack a pretty good punch and seemed to handle it fine either way. I didn't like the loose connection of the bass blockers so I just got rid of them.

For the rear in Forscan I turned EQ off and set it to speaker sub.

I tried some 80's stuff and a few Man from Snowy River soundtrack songs, so nothing too challenging probably, but it works great! Not noticing any distortion, can actually hear sound from the back now and am tickled pink.

I am used to pretty crappy audio systems so I am easy to impress but not sure what I would do to improve. It sounds really good in this little 2-door and was cheap and easy no splicing or cutting.

I didn't even have to take the whole side panel off, just un-popped the rear clips and I was able to reach in and undo the 4 bolts holding the sub and amp and pull it out. Easy peasy
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Onexl85

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Hello All!
If I installed ksc4” with bass blockers and ksc65s in the front, do I want to use forscan to change the output from speaker/tweeter to speaker?
 

OscarHTX

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I'm sure this is mentioned here, but does the 7 speaker set up that comes stock need any messing around with in Forscan, for better quality?
 

ASlaugh

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Hello All!
If I installed ksc4” with bass blockers and ksc65s in the front, do I want to use forscan to change the output from speaker/tweeter to speaker?
The front channels are already set to "speaker" and have the full sound.
 
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I'm sure this is mentioned here, but does the 7 speaker set up that comes stock need any messing around with in Forscan, for better quality?
Only if you replace the rear 4" pod speakers with larger speakers or a sound bar.
 

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tokyo

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The front channels are already set to "speaker" and have the full sound.
I think they come as speaker/tweeter?

But I tried it both ways (2,0 and B,3 in Forscan) and couldn’t really tell a difference, so not sure it matters that much.
 
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tokyo

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Only if you replace the rear 4" pod speakers with larger speakers or a sound bar.
I would add quality aftermarket 4” speakers to the list.

I put some infinity 4”in the rear pods and tried the as built forscan as well as EQ off and set to speaker/sub (0,2) and it was huge difference. They woke up and sound so much better.
 

ASlaugh

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I think they come as speaker/tweeter?

But I tried it both ways (2,0 and B,3 in Forscan) and couldn’t really tell a difference, so not sure it matters that much.
The kick 4" dash speakers are physically wired to the same channel as the kick panel speakers. This means that they are getting the full speaker range of sound. To protect the 4" speakers, they have bass blockers from the factory.
 

tokyo

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The kick 4" dash speakers are physically wired to the same channel as the kick panel speakers. This means that they are getting the full speaker range of sound. To protect the 4" speakers, they have bass blockers from the factory.
Sorry, I worded my comment weird. You are right, they are getting full range.

I was just referring to the Forscan labeling of “speaker & tweeter vs speaker” as listed below.


  • xxYx-xxxx-xxxx - Driver Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
    • 0 - Speaker
    • 1 - Tweeter
    • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
    • 3 - No Speaker (ACM disable)
  • xxxY-xxxx-xxxx - Passenger Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
    • 3 - Speaker
    • 7 - Tweeter
    • B - Speaker & Tweeter
    • F - No Speaker
 

ASlaugh

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Sorry, I worded my comment weird. You are right, they are getting full range.

I was just referring to the Forscan labeling of “speaker & tweeter vs speaker” as listed below.


  • xxYx-xxxx-xxxx - Driver Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
    • 0 - Speaker
    • 1 - Tweeter
    • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
    • 3 - No Speaker (ACM disable)
  • xxxY-xxxx-xxxx - Passenger Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
    • 3 - Speaker
    • 7 - Tweeter
    • B - Speaker & Tweeter
    • F - No Speaker
This is just an assumption, but I believe that "Speaker" alone will activate a low-pass filter that will reduce the high-frequencies to the front channels. While this would be optimal for the 6.5" speakers, it would cut the output to the dash speakers.
I haven't heard of any reason to mess with the front channels in Forscan on the Bronco.
 

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ElonMuk

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So being that many of you have several variants of setups for new speakers/ mods/ subs, what is the opinion of best bang for buck setup for a 23 DR? I realize everyone's music taste and level of sound is different but curious
 
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RagnarKon

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So being that many of you have several variants of setups for new speakers/ mods/ subs, what is the opinion of best bang for buck setup for a 23 DR? I realize everyone's music taste and level of sound is different but curious
Depends on your price point and how comfortable you are digging into you Bronco's trim pieces.

If you are comfortable digging into the trim panels:
  1. Subwoofer install - 6.75" sub with Fusion/Bronco amp
  2. New 4" speakers upgrade for dash and rear pods
  3. Amplifier installation the 6 speakers
  4. New 6.75" speaker replacement for the kick panels
  5. Subwoofer amplifier upgrade
  6. Replace rear 4" pods with 6.5" pods
If you want to avoid digging into the trim panels completely, your options will be limited, but there is still easy steps you can take:
  1. Replace rear 4" pods with 6.5" pods
  2. Replace dash 4" speakers
---

I've ordered them from most impactful to least impactful, while also taking into account difficulty and price. Basically you just keep going down the list until you're happy.

Obviously some of the steps can be modified to save cash. If, for example, you are following the first list and have already decided you know you want 6.5" pod speakers... then there is no reason to buy new 4" rear pod speakers during step two.

If you do everything on the first list you are looking at $1000 - $1350 depending on what exactly you buy. The second list totals around the $400-$500 mark.
 
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ElonMuk

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Depends on your price point and how comfortable you are digging into you Bronco's trim pieces.

If you are comfortable digging into the trim panels:
  1. Subwoofer install - 6.75" sub with Fusion/Bronco amp
  2. New 4" speakers upgrade for dash and rear pods
  3. Amplifier installation the 6 speakers
  4. New 6.75" speaker replacement for the kick panels
  5. Subwoofer amplifier upgrade
  6. Replace rear 4" pods with 6.5" pods
If you want to avoid digging into the trim panels completely, your options will be limited, but there is still easy steps you can take:
  1. Replace rear 4" pods with 6.5" pods
  2. Replace dash 4" speakers
---

I've ordered them from most impactful to least impactful, while also taking into account difficulty and price. Basically you just keep going down the list until you're happy.

Obviously some of the steps can be modified to save cash. If, for example, you are following the first list and have already decided you know you want 6.5" pod speakers... then there is no reason to buy new 4" rear pod speakers during step two.

If you do everything on the first list you are looking at $1000 - $1350 depending on what exactly you buy. The second list totals around the $400-$500 mark.
Thanks for the feedback. I am gonna try and stay around the $1k mark after reading this reply. ForScan is still needed to unlock all the goodies but 2023 seem to still have issues with it from what I see.
 

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This is just an assumption, but I believe that "Speaker" alone will activate a low-pass filter that will reduce the high-frequencies to the front channels. While this would be optimal for the 6.5" speakers, it would cut the output to the dash speakers.
I haven't heard of any reason to mess with the front channels in Forscan on the Bronco.
maybe so? I don’t know ..

I couldn’t hear a difference between the two settings. Tried them both just because and sounded the same to me
 

tokyo

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After listening some more I’m actually not as happy with the subwoofer. It is the kicker 4ohm with fusion amp.

Seems like it’s trying to play higher frequencies maybe.. annoying on some songs so I deactivated it and much better.

The 4” speakers lack bass of course but it still sounds like a nice OEM setup.

is there such a thing as a lowpass filter for the sub? Basically the opposite of a bass blocker that can be wired in line.
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