[How-To] Subwoofer Upgrade - Replacing/Upgrading the Factory Sub

[BRONBO]

Yup. You'd splice LR into the same wires that feed the amplifier 1 input in the Kicker Key 200.4.

Took apart the dash tonight, luckily the LR just plugged into the white connection that goes into the head unit. Just had to find the empty holes and snap the wires in. Easy enough.

Got all my parts in this week so I’ll be installing the 500.1, gear shade box and a 8” l7t hopefully this weekend.

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[BRONBO]

Finally got my kicker combo installed - 500.1, l7t and the gearshade box. Pretty happy with everything so far even though I need to fine tune it a little as well as reinstall all the rear panels.

I followed what gearshade had recommended as a good starting point for the amp, but I feel like the rock music I listen to isn’t putting much out on there.

Any good recommendations or guidance for that?

Thanks ragnarkon for your posts, definitely came in handy the last few days.

 

[clos.hndz10]

Quick question I’m assuming the kicker hideaway sub won’t fit in the space where the amp and sub go? If it would any negatives to having it there?

 

[RagnarKon]

Quick question I’m assuming the kicker hideaway sub won’t fit in the space where the amp and sub go? If it would any negatives to having it there?

The HS8 should fit in that space... I measured it while planning out what I was going to do. Obviously I changed plans at some point, so I'm not sure if you'd run into any issues or not. But it should fit. (Not sure about the HS10.)

You'll have to built some sort of adapter mounting bracket to bolt it into place and prevent it from moving around back there. I suspect that'll be the hardest part.

 

[mpeugeot]

Quick question I’m assuming the kicker hideaway sub won’t fit in the space where the amp and sub go? If it would any negatives to having it there?

The 46HS10 really doesn't fit well without a custom mounting solution and a smaller powered sub might fit a lot easier (like the HS8).

 

[clos.hndz10]

The 46HS10 really doesn't fit well without a custom mounting solution and a smaller powered sub might fit a lot easier (like the HS8).

Understood, thank you I’ll look into it some more.

 

[clos.hndz10]

The HS8 should fit in that space... I measured it while planning out what I was going to do. Obviously I changed plans at some point, so I'm not sure if you'd run into any issues or not. But it should fit. (Not sure about the HS10.)

You'll have to built some sort of adapter mounting bracket to bolt it into place and prevent it from moving around back there. I suspect that'll be the hardest part.

Thank you for the information. I’ll have to see what is the best route to take. Is the sound for the hideaway similar to what it would be with a separate amp and sub?

 

[Cetherton]

Hey @RagnarKon great information. I have what I hope is a simple question. I have a 23MY 7-speaker system. Because I already have the below equipment from my old truck, I'm planning on leaving the factory sub as is, and adding my 2x 10" subs and amp. I will run all new power, remote, rca from line out converter, etc to the amp.

Subs are Infinity 10" shallow mount.
Amp is an Alpine M450.

Do you see any issues with leaving the factory set up? Not looking for the "perfect" sounding system, just more than stock and use the equipment I have.

Side note, I'll be building a down firing box that covers the entire floor therefore only losing some vertical cargo space, but also leveling the floor when the seats are down.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Sardine]

I just did the fusion amp and Kicker sub combo install today on my 2023. It did improve the sound but man it really still sounds bad compared to my Elantra N.

Is this just a limitation of the Fusion Amp? Or do I need to go ahead and replace the dash and rear speakers as well? I feel like the rear pods are basically useless. Even when changing the balance to full rear you can barely hear those things.

Or did I wire my sub wrong? I just wired it in "parallel" like the fake sub was. Is there a chance of this being wired inverted so the sub is out of phase? Not sure if it matters which of the positive wires from the harness goes to which positive terminal.

Not a car audio system expert btw.

 

[RagnarKon]

I just did the fusion amp and Kicker sub combo install today on my 2023. It did improve the sound but man it really still sounds bad compared to my Elantra N.

Is this just a limitation of the Fusion Amp? Or do I need to go ahead and replace the dash and rear speakers as well? I feel like the rear pods are basically useless. Even when changing the balance to full rear you can barely hear those things.

Or did I wire my sub wrong? I just wired it in "parallel" like the fake sub was. Is there a chance of this being wired inverted so the sub is out of phase? Not sure if it matters which of the positive wires from the harness goes to which positive terminal.

Not a car audio system expert btw.

Yeah you basically just recreated what the base audio system should have been in the Bronco. Your Elantra N has the premium Bose sound system (if memory serves me correctly), so you can't really compare a premium sound system to a base audio setup.

If you want it to be anywhere close to what you have in the Elantra you're going to have to start adding/replacing other gear—speakers, amps, etc.

 

[Sardine]

Yeah you basically just recreated what the base audio system should have been in the Bronco. Your Elantra N has the premium Bose sound system (if memory serves me correctly), so you can't really compare a premium sound system to a base audio setup.

If you want it to be anywhere close to what you have in the Elantra you're going to have to start adding/replacing other gear—speakers, amps, etc.

I figured,

In your opinion, does replacing the front dash speakers and the rear pop speakers make a huge difference just keeping the stock fusion amp? Would it be me worth doing? It honestly doesn't look too expensive to replace those 4 speakers.

 

[RagnarKon]

I figured,

In your opinion, does replacing the front dash speakers and the rear pop speakers make a huge difference just keeping the stock fusion amp? Would it be me worth doing? It honestly doesn't look too expensive to replace those 4 speakers.

The most impactful "bang-for-your-buck" upgrade will be the front 4" speakers followed by an amplifier for the 6 speakers throughout the Bronco.

After that it's a diminishing returns sorta thing, and you can start throwing a lot of money at it without a gigantic benefit. You can add an aftermarket subwoofer amplifier with a larger 8-inch or 10-inch subwoofer. But you already spend money on the Fusion amp... so probably best to save that for last. You can also upgrade the rear speakers, but to actually make them useful you'll have to replace the factory 4" speakers with 6.5" speakers, which turns into at least a ~$250-$350 upgrade without a huge benefit. And then you can upgrade the kick panel speakers, add new speakers, add tweeters, install crossovers, add sound deadening, add a DSP, etc.... the limit is ultimately determined by the size of your wallet.

 

[mdube72]

@RagnarKon - related topic but slightly different. On the 2023 B&O package, its clear Ford updated the B&O sub amplifier - I havent seen any data that provides specs. I have seen that its been posted the stock B&O subwoofer is a 2x2 ohms (110 watt) small sub that is run with 2 separate sets of speaker leads inside the sub box. Presumably, the amp is seeing a 2 ohm load. If all of what I have said is true, then would dropping in an upgraded 2 ohm DVC subwoofer like the Kicker 48CWR82 and wire it up with the Metra 72-6514 speaker harnesses give decent results ? Essentially wire it in the same manner as the factory B&O sub Amazon.com: 72-6514 Speaker Adapter Wire Harness Compatible with Jeep Dodge Chrysler Town & Country Dakota Ram Wrangler Car Front and Rear Door Speaker Wiring Harness Speaker Connector (4Pcs) : Electronics
I'm asking because it seems like there are several threads of people trying to perform a subwoofer upgrade only and they are dropping in 4ohm DVC subs and then saying the sound is no better or even worse (quieter or less punchy) than the factory B&O. This is a curiosity for me at the moment - toying with this idea or I will just pull the trigger on the well documented Kicker Key 500 and the standard Kicker 8 inch DVC sub referenced all over the forum.

 

[AGM Everglades]

FWIW, i just had an Atlanta shop install a Kicker 400.1 class D amp (same exact size as factory sub amp), a Kicker comp 8” sub and some kicker 6.5” rear pod speakers. Also did the forscan eq mod. It’s so much better than I expected but obviously not a high end sound. But again, IT’S SO MUCH BETTER THAN EXPECTED. I’ll end up eventually replacing the dash and kick panel speakers, a dsp amp and an additional 10 or 12 inch sub for low lows. But again, it’s so much better just adding the amp and 8” sub. Can’t believe how hard the 8 hits considering it’s in such a tiny box.

 

[RagnarKon]

@RagnarKon - related topic but slightly different. On the 2023 B&O package, its clear Ford updated the B&O sub amplifier - I havent seen any data that provides specs. I have seen that its been posted the stock B&O subwoofer is a 2x2 ohms (110 watt) small sub that is run with 2 separate sets of speaker leads inside the sub box. Presumably, the amp is seeing a 2 ohm load. If all of what I have said is true, then would dropping in an upgraded 2 ohm DVC subwoofer like the Kicker 48CWR82 and wire it up with the Metra 72-6514 speaker harnesses give decent results ? Essentially wire it in the same manner as the factory B&O sub Amazon.com: 72-6514 Speaker Adapter Wire Harness Compatible with Jeep Dodge Chrysler Town & Country Dakota Ram Wrangler Car Front and Rear Door Speaker Wiring Harness Speaker Connector (4Pcs) : Electronics
I'm asking because it seems like there are several threads of people trying to perform a subwoofer upgrade only and they are dropping in 4ohm DVC subs and then saying the sound is no better or even worse (quieter or less punchy) than the factory B&O. This is a curiosity for me at the moment - toying with this idea or I will just pull the trigger on the well documented Kicker Key 500 and the standard Kicker 8 inch DVC sub referenced all over the forum.

The Base auto system included in 2023 and later is a 2x2Ω 110 Watt... which is basically nothing for a subwoofer.

The original B&O system (2021-2022, and maybe early 2023?) was a 6-channel 660 watt total, with a 2x4Ω subwoofer output. I have no idea how much of that was 660 watts of power was devoted to the subwoofer itself, but if I were to guess they just split the amps up evenly and the subwoofer got 220 watts. Although I could also see them giving it up to 300 watts.

I honestly don't know the stats on the new B&O amp. It may be the same, it may not be, no idea. But I'm assuming the design is similar to the old amp/sub, because the power wiring feeding the amp is unchanged. Which means it's probably still a 2x4Ω DVC subwoofer.

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If you are talking the Base audio system, several people tried to replace the factory subwoofer with a 2Ω DVC and found that it sounded muddled and somewhat sloppy. Which, considering the factory amp is only 110 watts, makes perfect sense. The minimum power level for most aftermarket 6.75" subwoofers is 150 watts, so 110 watts is definitely under-powering it a bit. Several people have said the ended up liking the 4Ω subwoofer better, which again... makes sense. Higher impedance means the subwoofer is easier to drive, which should help with the sloppy sound.

The 48CWR82 is going to want a 300 watt amplifier, which you are definitely are not going to get anywhere close with the Base audio system. And if my hunch is correct and the B&O amp is outputting only 220 watts, you aren't going to get it with the B&O system either. Which means it would make more sense to get the 48CWR84.

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Also the Metra 72-6514 is not the correct connector for either the B&O nor the base amp. Not sure where you got that from.

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