Installing a winch electrical considerations?

[Richterman]

Right as you are looking at it in that photo or standing from the front looking in, but it would actually be the Left cowl - rear driver's side of the engine compartment, right at the back edge of the hood above the firewall. Just behind the fuse box - and yeah, should be a ground cable mounted to the frame just to the left of where that photo is taken.

Exactly correct. The bottom black in the picture is the fuse box

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[ColeTrain84]

i just used a main disconnect switch. No big deal since i'll have to get out and pull the line out anyway.

 

[Aman]

Does this bracket mount behind the fuse block where the two ground cables land (upper right cowl)?

David, here's the link for the mount on AAL's site.

Bronco Battery Cutoff and MAXI Fuse Bracket Kit - American Adventure Lab

Please note that they originally designed it for the 2.7L and then made a second version for the 2.3L. It appears that the second version fits both the 2.3L and 2.7L, so that is their current offering. Might want to drop them a line to be certain.

 

[PWillette]

The signal wire for the relay, assuming you are doing a high voltage relay like a PAC shouldn't draw more than a couple amps when triggered. It seems to be a waste to use Aux 1 for it IMO if you can avoid it.

Agreed, I should have elaborated...I wanted to have the option to easily change up what the aux switches triggered so I installed a fused terminal block for the aux wires in the engine bay. At the time the winch was the first item installed so I stuck it on #1 w/ a 10 amp fuse, just never bothered to move it to another switch as I don't need 30amps at present. If I need the full 30amps in the future I'm able to simply relocate the winch trigger wire to another aux location then swap in a 30amp fuse at aux #1. Probably a bit overkill but it also tidied things up.

 

[HeliPilot]

My warn Zeon has a toggle switch on the back right hand side. I flip mine off, no parasitic draw.

 

[da_jokker]

Personally I used an isolator $50, to hook the winch up to an Aux switch (#3)


I highly recommend you do NOT use that warn junk. I bought that very same relay...burned out on my 2nd pull and blew the fuse for my aux switch.

I reached out to warn and they blew me off.

Instead of that crap, if you want to try that route (vs a manual cut off switch) get something like this....

Stinger 500-AMP Isolator https://a.co/d/h4fFmNG

There are also cheaper version (which is what I ended up with after throwing money away on warn)...but just make sure you are 500amp or more.

 

[cynicalrider]

Agreed, I should have elaborated...I wanted to have the option to easily change up what the aux switches triggered so I installed a fused terminal block for the aux wires in the engine bay. At the time the winch was the first item installed so I stuck it on #1 w/ a 10 amp fuse, just never bothered to move it to another switch as I don't need 30amps at present. If I need the full 30amps in the future I'm able to simply relocate the winch trigger wire to another aux location then swap in a 30amp fuse at aux #1. Probably a bit overkill but it also tidied things up.

That is a super clean setup, I might copy that off you. Make the bracket yourself?

 

[PWillette]

That is a super clean setup, I might copy that off you. Make the bracket yourself?

Yes, just a piece of scrape SS flat stock bent 90deg.

 

[Texasliam]

I used this tied in to an aux switch.

How did you mount it? I don’t think it comes with s bracket.

 

[nottinbe]

How did you mount it? I don’t think it comes with s bracket.

There is a small bracket in front of the battery that worked perfectly, and also put all the cables within reach of the battery studs. I'm not near mine currently but I'll grab a picture when I can.

 

[RagnarKon]

Going to go against the grain a little bit here....

I tested the idle power draw on my WARN Zeon 10-S because I was actually concerned about this... and it didn't actually draw any measurable power until the controller was plugged in. I assume WARN put in relays within the winch itself to ensure it's not actually powered until the controller is connected.

I certainly wouldn't fault anyone for using an isolation switch or a relay, even if it is just for peace of mind. But at least for the WARN Zeon, it may be a non-issue.

Also worth noting they sell the Bronco Everglades from the factory without any additional isolation/relay switches. Obviously can't say for certain, but I would imagine if there was a concern regarding parasitic draw, Ford would have addressed that to avoid having to pay dealers for warranty services related to battery issues.

 

[Bodge Garage]

I did the belt and suspenders method on mine, switch and disconnect. The bonus is my jumper cables hook into the quick disconnect. Flaming River makes good switches.

 

[Texasliam]

There is a small bracket in front of the battery that worked perfectly, and also put all the cables within reach of the battery studs. I'm not near mine currently but I'll grab a picture when I can.

Please do. And thanks.

 

[nottinbe]

Please do. And thanks.

This existing bracket (not sure what it is supposed to be for?) was just the right size to mount the relay:

Mounted:

 

[Felix808]

There is a small bracket in front of the battery that worked perfectly, and also put all the cables within reach of the battery studs. I'm not near mine currently but I'll grab a picture when I can.

Yep, that is where I mounted my isolator relay. Just made a mount from some shop scrap & wired the control voltage to aux 5

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