Motorhome sway when flat towing Bronco

[1MtnBronco]

4dr OuterBanks w/Sasquatch Package is our third tow vehicle behind our 28' ACE with Ford Tritan V10 engine. While power was not an issue, stability was a real problem as when we got to 60-65mph the RV starting swaying, making it difficult to keep within the lane. Slowing down to 50-55mph took care of most of the problem but it was still a lot more concentration type driving than without the Bronco behind.



Consulted with a friend who is an offroader/fabricator/mechanic and his first blush was the aggressive 35" tires that come on the Sasquatch package, believing they want to grab everything on the road and hence, the "tail is wagging the dog".



Another thought is the combination of the standard Blue Ox tow bar now has a 3" higher adapter so the RV and the Bronco are on a level towing angle, creating a bit more play at the two connections vs. just one connection with a typical hookup.



Looking for some suggestions, lacking not towing the Bronco, as to how to correct this...

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[GreyZ]

Any type of lift or level on the bronco? Toe out on the front tires of the toad can cause sway. I belive there is room on the mount to put a sway controller similar to travel trailers, this would be another option.

The bronco is a wide and un-aerodynamic toad. This means that any air turbulence comming off the back of the RV will have significant effects.

It is also a smaller RV with rear wheels pretty far forwards of the tow point, this means it is more succeptible to sway compared to other RV's.

 

[lapazleo]

Any type of lift or level on the bronco? Toe out on the front tires of the toad can cause sway. I belive there is room on the mount to put a sway controller similar to travel trailers, this would be another option.

The bronco is a wide and un-aerodynamic toad. This means that any air turbulence comming off the back of the RV will have significant effects.

It is also a smaller RV with rear wheels pretty far forwards of the tow point, this means it is more succeptible to sway compared to other RV's.

Not to mention a 4 door hard top is pushing around 4800lbs+.

 

[grtharris]

Put one of these hitch tighteners on each receiver joint. You could be getting a lot play in your hitch setup.
https://www.amazon.com/RETRUE-Tight...ocphy=9026529&hvtargid=pla-1930973462625&th=1

 

[law]

I will second the anti-rattle hitch tightener.
I have also updated to a bigger anti sway bar on the front and back of my RV. The biggest help with keeping my rig stable was the addition of the SuperSteer Trac Bar. The trac bar is well worth the money.

Safe travels.

 

[dgorsett]

I tow a Non Sas Bronco with a V10 class C on a E350 chassis, no issues like you describe. Previously towed a Wrangler without issue.
I second the suggestion to add anti rattle devices at all joints. It looks like you're nice and level.
Now in a wind of 10 mph + all bets are off, especially with the towed.
As I tell folks, the wind can blow out of four directions and three of them are bad.

 

[615_Bronco]

I tow a Non Sas Bronco with a V10 class C on a E350 chassis, no issues like you describe. Previously towed a Wrangler without issue.
I second the suggestion to add anti rattle devices at all joints. It looks like you're nice and level.
Now in a wind of 10 mph + all bets are off, especially with the towed.
As I tell folks, the wind can blow out of four directions and three of them are bad.

The only good one is from a tail wind

 

[ssmegapunish]

I experience the sway issues mentioned but really only during a sudden direction changes on curvy mountain roads. My setup isn't recommended by any manufacturer. I'm pretty sure the weight ratio between the dually and bronco coupled with the distance from the rear axle to the hitch is the main issue. Most rigs flat towing out there are those 50k+lb 45' class A or C's so the Bronco won't push those around. The track bar above seems sketchy/snake oil to me - I'd question anything that is bolting up to a differential - asking for expensive issues. I could be wrong though. I would suggest a better sway bar. It won't fix tail wagging the dog but would probably help with stability a bit. I'd suggest looking at Hellwig to see if they have "bigwig" one for your chassis. Maybe fill the water tank in the motorhome too? Those yellow speed signs on curves are my friend

 

[yourbudjim]

I have a Thor Vegas with the same Ford chassis as your Ace and it was hard to keep in the lane whenever a large truck passed us. I installed Roadmaster sway bars front and rear along with a steering stabilizer and the difference was remarkable. Unfortunately, I did those mods before we started flat-towing our Bronco so I can't say for sure how it would've towed before. I have a stock Badlands four door. It was about $1000 for both sway bars and another $350ish for the steering stabilizer, but so worth it as my wife now feels comfortable driving it.

 

[ksdon]

The Super Steer Trac bar helps our Thor Axis (E350) the most. We also have Super Springs front/rear and Roadmaster anti-swaybars. They all added some degree of improved tracking and stability.
Even though it seems that so many products are, "super", there is still much movement with a motorhome chassis. Our last trip out took us through New Mexico where there was terrible side winds. It was a constant fight. But, semi's were also being greatly affected so we just slowed down and drove....

When we drive without towing the Bronco the ride is more stable. The Bronco must add some wagging the tail affect. I think that is why the Super Steer Trac Bar helps.

 

[1MtnBronco]

Thanks for the solid replies...

Our last toad was a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk that has a GVWR of about 6000lbs and with the exception of a couple of "death wobbles" at low speed which got corrected with a updated wiring harness we never had these sway problems.

I am keying on on both the hitch movement/tightener and maybe upgrading our already upgraded sway bars to something more robust.

Any thoughts on the greater distance between RV and Tow that occurred when I added the 3" height adapter? The total distance grew 9" and could be reduced by about 6" by having some new pin holes created.

 

[1MtnBronco]

Put one of these hitch tighteners on each receiver joint. You could be getting a lot play in your hitch setup.
https://www.amazon.com/RETRUE-Tight...ocphy=9026529&hvtargid=pla-1930973462625&th=1

Good idea, ordered two today.

 

[Bill K]

Good idea, ordered two today.

I have a similar hitch tightener by Tulga. I bought it when I used to tow my 1500 lb motorcycle/trailer behind my 10,000 lb Class C Sprinter. I now tow my 2 door Bronco, and just use the Tulga out of habit (hate the big jerk on take-off without it). Haven't experienced any of the issues where I don't feel comfortable with my setup (also use the Blue Ox kit, and their aluminum tow bar). Blue Ox specifies a max total length for the distance from RV receiver to the receiver for the tow bar for whatever height adjuster you're using - I stay under that.

 

[TerryVester]

I will be towing my OBX behind this. I am currently waiting for delivery. I will be using using my Ready Brute Elite with the ready brake too. I order to Curt LED wiring for 4 wheel tow. My vehicle just switched to built so hopefully I will get it this week, fingers crossed. I never experienced any wag like you described with my 2 door wrangler.

 

[Bsenecal]

I will be towing my OBX behind this. I am currently waiting for delivery. I will be using using my Ready Brute Elite with the ready brake too. I order to Curt LED wiring for 4 wheel tow. My vehicle just switched to built so hopefully I will get it this week, fingers crossed. I never experienced any wag like you described with my 2 door wrangler.

Nice coach, I can see why you don’t have any “tail wag” with a large diesel pusher like that.
Brian

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