Awesome write up. do you have pictures of the trunk with the new enclosure in place?I've posted a couple things in a few different threads, but thought I would consolidate some of my notes / thoughts in one place. There are a lot of good threads with pictures, this is more tips that some may find useful.
Like many, I was pretty underwhelmed with the B&O system. I didn't have high expectations for a factory radio, but for a "premium" system, it's pretty bad. I plan to trade my truck in for a raptor at some point in the next year, so I didn't want to sink a ton of money into a stereo and wanted to avoid cutting, splicing, removing anything that would be difficult to undo or jeopardize the function of the factory radio/cameras/etc.
After doing a fair amount of reading here, I decided a good first step was to replace the front corner dash speakers with Focal ACX 100s using the amazon harness (all plug and play). Thought this would determine whether if it was worth doing anymore speaker replacements, since I had no intention of spending $800 on the NAV TV unit to replace the factory amp.
Amazon Harness for 4" Speakers
I found the connection on the positive terminal of these harnesses to be a little loose (hopefully crutchfield has their own soon). If you gently squeeze the connector with some needle nose pliers, it will tighten it down and form a good fit. The negative terminal fit snug for me on all 5 harnesses, but you can do the same thing if needed.
Dash Corner Speakers
These were pretty straight forward to swap out. The passenger side was a bit easier because on the driver side, the factory speaker cable was zip tied to a plastic screw directly below the speaker that prevented the focal speaker from "seating" until I removed the zip tie and screw it was attached to. I also found that the amazon trim kit toolset I ordered didn't have a thin enough edge to pry the speaker covers off and ended up using a tool on a leatherman (can wrap a piece of painters tape around it to avoid scratching the plastic).
This speaker swap made a pretty significant difference. I wouldn't call it night and day, but it was way more clear and crisp. Not any louder, but convinced me enough to swap the other 4" speakers.
Link to Focal ACX 100 Speakers
Should take 30-45 minutes to swap both speakers. You'll need a pry tool and 7mm socket.
[pic of zip tie / screw I removed on the driver side]
Center Speaker
This speaker was a bit more challenging to replace. First, you have to remember to remove the accessory rail with the two factory torx bolts. They're hard to see, so it takes a little feeling around to get them undone. I found this speaker cover harder to remove compared to the corners. I pulled from the windshield back and it took a bit of force to get the back off.
You'll also have to be cognizant of the USB plug (in the front) and gently bend that as you remove the cover (it is attached to the cover). You may need to move the factory cable inside the console to the side to get the speaker to seat properly. Between the center channel speaker cable and USB cable, it is a bit more crowded than the corner speakers.
Getting the cover back on took a little more effort to get the rear clips (closest to the dash) to seat. I used a trim tool to push the clips back horizontally into place (the back gets put in first) while putting downward pressure to get them to snap down. Once the back is properly seated, just work the usb plug back in its spot and the front clips in easily. Nice improvement in SQ and a must, IMO if you are going to replace the corner dash speakers.
Should take 30 minutes. You'll need a pry tool, Torx (t-20 or t-25) driver and 7mm socket.
Rear Speakers
These are by far the easiest to replace. You don't need a pry tool to remove the covers, just squeeze either side and it pops off. Speakers come out with two phillips screws. Wish they were all this easy. Not a huge improvement in sound, but they're a little more clear and it rounds out the highs nicely. If you wanted to skip replacing these to save a little money, I would go right to a sub replacement.
Should take 15 minutes and you just need a Phillips head screw driver.
Kick Panels
I read a lot of mixed things on replacing these speakers. I went with the Focal ACX 165s (with the free installation kit from crutchfield). Bottom line is the factory amp doesn't have enough power to drive a good set of aftermarket 6.5" speakers and the factory amp filters out highs, so 2-ways are useless.
I think I lost a hair of volume with the focals but maybe picked up a little crispness in the bass. I did a lot of back and forth testing (passenger speaker swapped, driver speaker stock) and this is one you can skip. I already had one speaker installed and for $135, it wasn't worth uninstalling it and returning them. I also am going to add an aftermarket sub, so I figured whatever little bit I lost in mid volume will be replaced by the new sub.
EDIT: after some more listening, I would skip replacing these. No noticeable improvement in SQ and you may even lose a little volume.
The installation on these was a bit more challenging. The screws that come with the focal acx 165 speakers will not fit in the Bronco. They are 1.5" screws and the metra extension plate is 1". Go to Home Depot and buy two packs of these (each speaker takes 8 screws). You can also do #6 x 3/4" screws, but you cannot do 1 1/4" and #8 screws will not fit with the focal speakers (the head is too big).
Link to Home Depot Screws
Once I got the right screws, the speakers mounted to the brackets easily and installation was straight forward (it's an awkward position to work in, but everything else is straight forward).
I highly suggest watching this YouTube video before doing it. They have a lot of great tips. Thanks! @1Five1 Garage.
Link to Focal ACX 165 Speakers
Should take about an hour for both (assuming you don't need to go to Home Depot 3 times for screws). You'll need a pry tool (for the driver foot rest cover), razor blade (to cut a hole in the foam to snake the new harness out of the speaker enclosure (watch the video below for an example), a 7mm socket (for the speakers) and a 10mm socket (for the driver side only to remove the foot rest).
Subwoofer
Probably the weakest link in the B&O stereo and almost every factory stereo is the sub. Subs require the most power to drive and are often jammed into awkward spaces to preserve space. The Bronco is no exception. I know a few people have tried to make the factory enclosure work with an aftermarket sub/amp, but IMO, you will be chasing a never ending stream of rattles. Those enclosures are not designed for acoustics and running any meaningful amount of power through them with an aftermarket sub will just result in even more plastic rattling and you'll constantly be trying to figure out a place to put dynamat/fill.
That said, this is a car I use every day and maintaining trunk space is important. I ordered this this Kicker down firing enclosure, Kicker Key 500.1 amp, Kicker bass control knob, Kicker amp installation kit and connector from Sounds Good Stereo (which allows you to plug right into the factory sub harness when you remove the speaker). I didn't think it is worth putting in anything more powerful, as it would overwhelm the mids/highs that are still powered by the factory B&O amp and I want something "tight" enough to still be musical, so a single sealed 10" was sufficient for me.
Link to Kicker Sub/Enclosure
Link to Kicker Amp
Link to Kicker Bass Control Knob
Link to Kicker Amp Installation Kit
Sounds Good Stereo Sub Harness
I'll lose minimal trunk space with this setup and can stack things on top without fear of damaging the speaker. Hopefully, in a pinch I can unplug the speaker wires, remove the enclosure and gain full function of the trunk and everything else (amp, power, ground, RCAs, remote control wires) is hidden.
EDIT: The shop I was going to have do the install couldn't get the kicker key amp or enclosure from their supplier, so I asked if it were ok if I purchased them online and had them install them since crutchfield and Best Buy had them in stock. They agreed, so my plan was to have them install them next week. I ended up ordering a kicker 8-gauge amp install kit too, just to make things easy.
THE POWER AND GROUND WIRES IN MOST AMP KITS ARE BARELY LONG ENOUGH. YOU'RE BETTER OFF BUYING YOUR OWN POWER/GROUND CABLES. The kicker power cable is 17', which is enough to get to the middle of the trunk. If you want to mount on the passenger side panel, I'd order 25'. Ground I would go with 10'. That is more then enough for both but cable is cheap and I'd rather have a little extra.
I thought I would remove the trunk panels myself. Between the good instructions (attached) and some patience, I figured I would do a more careful job than the stereo shop. It isn't particularly hard, just take your time and a good set of interior trim removal tools will help. You WILL snap a couple of these two piece clips no matter how careful you are, order a couple sets (they come in packs of 4 ahead of time). Most online retailers sell them for $5 a pack.
I still had the front kick panel off from replacing the 6.5" speaker, so I figured I might as well pull the power and bass control remote knob wires. Once you have the trunk panels and driver kick panel off, it's very easy. Cut a hole in the grommet to the engine bay and it is easy enough to snake them along the driver side. I used a coat hanger to pull them between the front driver door and rear driver door to avoid having to pull that A-pillar.
After I got the power/remote cables pulled to the trunk and zip tied up, I started looking for a good place to mount the Kicker Key amp. Surprisingly, there aren't a lot of good hidden places. Under the rear seats doesn't fit when you fold them down. The driver side panel in the trunk doesn't have anything beside an area all the way in the rear by the hatch but still wasn't ideal. The passenger side doesn't work unless you remove the sub enclosure (which I didn't want to do because the harness I am using to tap the signal requires the factory connectors in the sub enclosure and since the B&O amp is mounted to the sub enclosure, you'd have to fab something up to mount that as well). I also thought about putting the amp in the empty sub enclosure but worried it would be difficult to secure and could rattle around. Finally, anything behind one of the panels would be difficult to access if I needed to. While you shouldn't have to tinker with the amp after getting it set up, I am sure something would come loose eventually and I am stuck tearing the trunk apart again.
My first thought was to mount it in the washout container beneath the trunk floor. After getting the wires run back to the trunk, I think the power and ground (even 8 gauge) is too thick to run beneath the carpeted floor without it buckling up. Possible, but not ideal. So my plan now is to use one of these to create a quick disconnect system and mount the amp in the trunk next to (possible attached to the sub box).
EDIT 2: A little more progress over the weekend. The Sounds Good Stereo adapter came (fits perfectly to factory harnesses -- note you'll need female to female RCA adapters (assuming both ends of your RCA cables are male). Two pictures below, one with the cables/connector out of the sub enclosure so you can see them and one with everything tucked back in. I'll put a little electrical tape over them to keep them in place, but with the panels back on, they won't go anywhere and reversing it is as simple as unplugging the harnesses and plugging them back onto the factory sub. Nothing in this install involved cutting or tapping a single wire / part in the car.
Amp set and ready for the power, ground and speaker cables (just waiting for some ferrules and the scosche quick disconnect kit).
Bass knob mounted up front:
Conclusion
Someone looking for a more budget friendly alternative could replace only the front three 4" speakers and add a Kicker HS10 powered sub. For ~$500 that stereo would satisfy most and probably be 90% as good as what I am doing.
Hope some of this is helpful to other people. While annoying that the factory radio is as underwhelming as it is, for under $1,000 you can turn it into something that most will be happy with.
View attachment 307796
Good luck. I would recommend starting with the front 3 dash speakers (those were the biggest improvement IMO) but the rears are so easy to swap out, I think it's a worthwhile upgrade.
It wasn't "horrible" it just didn't do anything exceptionally well. Upgrading the 5 4" speakers is very easy, very cheap and it makes a big improvement. Had it not just been a speaker swap and I needed to replace the factory amp, I probably would have just left it alone.
Literally sitting here waiting for UPS to show up with the last of my connectors, so I can get everything put back together. Should have it done tomorrow.
Right now I am doing damage control for what I believe to be a blown speaker.... I will address the front eventually.... mama already is giving me the stink eye for the "constant flow of upgrades" that I am purchasing for my already "loaded Bronco".
Any thought on getting rid of the B&O alltogether? have you checked into the NAV-TV ZEN audio interface for the Ford B&O systemsI've posted a couple things in a few different threads, but thought I would consolidate some of my notes / thoughts in one place. There are a lot of good threads with pictures, this is more tips that some may find useful.
Like many, I was pretty underwhelmed with the B&O system. I didn't have high expectations for a factory radio, but for a "premium" system, it's pretty bad. I plan to trade my truck in for a raptor at some point in the next year, so I didn't want to sink a ton of money into a stereo and wanted to avoid cutting, splicing, removing anything that would be difficult to undo or jeopardize the function of the factory radio/cameras/etc.
After doing a fair amount of reading here, I decided a good first step was to replace the front corner dash speakers with Focal ACX 100s using the amazon harness (all plug and play). Thought this would determine whether if it was worth doing anymore speaker replacements, since I had no intention of spending $800 on the NAV TV unit to replace the factory amp.
Amazon Harness for 4" Speakers
I found the connection on the positive terminal of these harnesses to be a little loose (hopefully crutchfield has their own soon). If you gently squeeze the connector with some needle nose pliers, it will tighten it down and form a good fit. The negative terminal fit snug for me on all 5 harnesses, but you can do the same thing if needed.
Dash Corner Speakers
These were pretty straight forward to swap out. The passenger side was a bit easier because on the driver side, the factory speaker cable was zip tied to a plastic screw directly below the speaker that prevented the focal speaker from "seating" until I removed the zip tie and screw it was attached to. I also found that the amazon trim kit toolset I ordered didn't have a thin enough edge to pry the speaker covers off and ended up using a tool on a leatherman (can wrap a piece of painters tape around it to avoid scratching the plastic).
This speaker swap made a pretty significant difference. I wouldn't call it night and day, but it was way more clear and crisp. Not any louder, but convinced me enough to swap the other 4" speakers.
Link to Focal ACX 100 Speakers
Should take 30-45 minutes to swap both speakers. You'll need a pry tool and 7mm socket.
[pic of zip tie / screw I removed on the driver side]
Center Speaker
This speaker was a bit more challenging to replace. First, you have to remember to remove the accessory rail with the two factory torx bolts. They're hard to see, so it takes a little feeling around to get them undone. I found this speaker cover harder to remove compared to the corners. I pulled from the windshield back and it took a bit of force to get the back off.
You'll also have to be cognizant of the USB plug (in the front) and gently bend that as you remove the cover (it is attached to the cover). You may need to move the factory cable inside the console to the side to get the speaker to seat properly. Between the center channel speaker cable and USB cable, it is a bit more crowded than the corner speakers.
Getting the cover back on took a little more effort to get the rear clips (closest to the dash) to seat. I used a trim tool to push the clips back horizontally into place (the back gets put in first) while putting downward pressure to get them to snap down. Once the back is properly seated, just work the usb plug back in its spot and the front clips in easily. Nice improvement in SQ and a must, IMO if you are going to replace the corner dash speakers.
Should take 30 minutes. You'll need a pry tool, Torx (t-20 or t-25) driver and 7mm socket.
Rear Speakers
These are by far the easiest to replace. You don't need a pry tool to remove the covers, just squeeze either side and it pops off. Speakers come out with two phillips screws. Wish they were all this easy. Not a huge improvement in sound, but they're a little more clear and it rounds out the highs nicely. If you wanted to skip replacing these to save a little money, I would go right to a sub replacement.
Should take 15 minutes and you just need a Phillips head screw driver.
Kick Panels
I read a lot of mixed things on replacing these speakers. I went with the Focal ACX 165s (with the free installation kit from crutchfield). Bottom line is the factory amp doesn't have enough power to drive a good set of aftermarket 6.5" speakers and the factory amp filters out highs, so 2-ways are useless.
I think I lost a hair of volume with the focals but maybe picked up a little crispness in the bass. I did a lot of back and forth testing (passenger speaker swapped, driver speaker stock) and this is one you can skip. I already had one speaker installed and for $135, it wasn't worth uninstalling it and returning them. I also am going to add an aftermarket sub, so I figured whatever little bit I lost in mid volume will be replaced by the new sub.
EDIT: after some more listening, I would skip replacing these. No noticeable improvement in SQ and you may even lose a little volume.
The installation on these was a bit more challenging. The screws that come with the focal acx 165 speakers will not fit in the Bronco. They are 1.5" screws and the metra extension plate is 1". Go to Home Depot and buy two packs of these (each speaker takes 8 screws). You can also do #6 x 3/4" screws, but you cannot do 1 1/4" and #8 screws will not fit with the focal speakers (the head is too big).
Link to Home Depot Screws
Once I got the right screws, the speakers mounted to the brackets easily and installation was straight forward (it's an awkward position to work in, but everything else is straight forward).
I highly suggest watching this YouTube video before doing it. They have a lot of great tips. Thanks! @1Five1 Garage.
Link to Focal ACX 165 Speakers
Should take about an hour for both (assuming you don't need to go to Home Depot 3 times for screws). You'll need a pry tool (for the driver foot rest cover), razor blade (to cut a hole in the foam to snake the new harness out of the speaker enclosure (watch the video below for an example), a 7mm socket (for the speakers) and a 10mm socket (for the driver side only to remove the foot rest).
Subwoofer
Probably the weakest link in the B&O stereo and almost every factory stereo is the sub. Subs require the most power to drive and are often jammed into awkward spaces to preserve space. The Bronco is no exception. I know a few people have tried to make the factory enclosure work with an aftermarket sub/amp, but IMO, you will be chasing a never ending stream of rattles. Those enclosures are not designed for acoustics and running any meaningful amount of power through them with an aftermarket sub will just result in even more plastic rattling and you'll constantly be trying to figure out a place to put dynamat/fill.
That said, this is a car I use every day and maintaining trunk space is important. I ordered this this Kicker down firing enclosure, Kicker Key 500.1 amp, Kicker bass control knob, Kicker amp installation kit and connector from Sounds Good Stereo (which allows you to plug right into the factory sub harness when you remove the speaker). I didn't think it is worth putting in anything more powerful, as it would overwhelm the mids/highs that are still powered by the factory B&O amp and I want something "tight" enough to still be musical, so a single sealed 10" was sufficient for me.
Link to Kicker Sub/Enclosure
Link to Kicker Amp
Link to Kicker Bass Control Knob
Link to Kicker Amp Installation Kit
Sounds Good Stereo Sub Harness
I'll lose minimal trunk space with this setup and can stack things on top without fear of damaging the speaker. Hopefully, in a pinch I can unplug the speaker wires, remove the enclosure and gain full function of the trunk and everything else (amp, power, ground, RCAs, remote control wires) is hidden.
EDIT: The shop I was going to have do the install couldn't get the kicker key amp or enclosure from their supplier, so I asked if it were ok if I purchased them online and had them install them since crutchfield and Best Buy had them in stock. They agreed, so my plan was to have them install them next week. I ended up ordering a kicker 8-gauge amp install kit too, just to make things easy.
THE POWER AND GROUND WIRES IN MOST AMP KITS ARE BARELY LONG ENOUGH. YOU'RE BETTER OFF BUYING YOUR OWN POWER/GROUND CABLES. The kicker power cable is 17', which is enough to get to the middle of the trunk. If you want to mount on the passenger side panel, I'd order 25'. Ground I would go with 10'. That is more then enough for both but cable is cheap and I'd rather have a little extra.
I thought I would remove the trunk panels myself. Between the good instructions (attached) and some patience, I figured I would do a more careful job than the stereo shop. It isn't particularly hard, just take your time and a good set of interior trim removal tools will help. You WILL snap a couple of these two piece clips no matter how careful you are, order a couple sets (they come in packs of 4 ahead of time). Most online retailers sell them for $5 a pack.
I still had the front kick panel off from replacing the 6.5" speaker, so I figured I might as well pull the power and bass control remote knob wires. Once you have the trunk panels and driver kick panel off, it's very easy. Cut a hole in the grommet to the engine bay and it is easy enough to snake them along the driver side. I used a coat hanger to pull them between the front driver door and rear driver door to avoid having to pull that A-pillar.
After I got the power/remote cables pulled to the trunk and zip tied up, I started looking for a good place to mount the Kicker Key amp. Surprisingly, there aren't a lot of good hidden places. Under the rear seats doesn't fit when you fold them down. The driver side panel in the trunk doesn't have anything beside an area all the way in the rear by the hatch but still wasn't ideal. The passenger side doesn't work unless you remove the sub enclosure (which I didn't want to do because the harness I am using to tap the signal requires the factory connectors in the sub enclosure and since the B&O amp is mounted to the sub enclosure, you'd have to fab something up to mount that as well). I also thought about putting the amp in the empty sub enclosure but worried it would be difficult to secure and could rattle around. Finally, anything behind one of the panels would be difficult to access if I needed to. While you shouldn't have to tinker with the amp after getting it set up, I am sure something would come loose eventually and I am stuck tearing the trunk apart again.
My first thought was to mount it in the washout container beneath the trunk floor. After getting the wires run back to the trunk, I think the power and ground (even 8 gauge) is too thick to run beneath the carpeted floor without it buckling up. Possible, but not ideal. So my plan now is to use one of these to create a quick disconnect system and mount the amp in the trunk next to (possible attached to the sub box).
EDIT 2: A little more progress over the weekend. The Sounds Good Stereo adapter came (fits perfectly to factory harnesses -- note you'll need female to female RCA adapters (assuming both ends of your RCA cables are male). Two pictures below, one with the cables/connector out of the sub enclosure so you can see them and one with everything tucked back in. I'll put a little electrical tape over them to keep them in place, but with the panels back on, they won't go anywhere and reversing it is as simple as unplugging the harnesses and plugging them back onto the factory sub. Nothing in this install involved cutting or tapping a single wire / part in the car.
Amp set and ready for the power, ground and speaker cables (just waiting for some ferrules and the scosche quick disconnect kit).
Bass knob mounted up front:
Conclusion
Someone looking for a more budget friendly alternative could replace only the front three 4" speakers and add a Kicker HS10 powered sub. For ~$500 that stereo would satisfy most and probably be 90% as good as what I am doing.
Hope some of this is helpful to other people. While annoying that the factory radio is as underwhelming as it is, for under $1,000 you can turn it into something that most will be happy with.
View attachment 307796
Very nice job.! However, I am glad i am an old fart with some degree of hearing loss so I can save money upgrading my audio. The stock B&O gear sounds fine to me.I've posted a couple things in a few different threads, but thought I would consolidate some of my notes / thoughts in one place. There are a lot of good threads with pictures, this is more tips that some may find useful.
Like many, I was pretty underwhelmed with the B&O system. I didn't have high expectations for a factory radio, but for a "premium" system, it's pretty bad. I plan to trade my truck in for a raptor at some point in the next year, so I didn't want to sink a ton of money into a stereo and wanted to avoid cutting, splicing, removing anything that would be difficult to undo or jeopardize the function of the factory radio/cameras/etc.
After doing a fair amount of reading here, I decided a good first step was to replace the front corner dash speakers with Focal ACX 100s using the amazon harness (all plug and play). Thought this would determine whether if it was worth doing anymore speaker replacements, since I had no intention of spending $800 on the NAV TV unit to replace the factory amp.
Amazon Harness for 4" Speakers
I found the connection on the positive terminal of these harnesses to be a little loose (hopefully crutchfield has their own soon). If you gently squeeze the connector with some needle nose pliers, it will tighten it down and form a good fit. The negative terminal fit snug for me on all 5 harnesses, but you can do the same thing if needed.
Dash Corner Speakers
These were pretty straight forward to swap out. The passenger side was a bit easier because on the driver side, the factory speaker cable was zip tied to a plastic screw directly below the speaker that prevented the focal speaker from "seating" until I removed the zip tie and screw it was attached to. I also found that the amazon trim kit toolset I ordered didn't have a thin enough edge to pry the speaker covers off and ended up using a tool on a leatherman (can wrap a piece of painters tape around it to avoid scratching the plastic).
This speaker swap made a pretty significant difference. I wouldn't call it night and day, but it was way more clear and crisp. Not any louder, but convinced me enough to swap the other 4" speakers.
Link to Focal ACX 100 Speakers
Should take 30-45 minutes to swap both speakers. You'll need a pry tool and 7mm socket.
[pic of zip tie / screw I removed on the driver side]
Center Speaker
This speaker was a bit more challenging to replace. First, you have to remember to remove the accessory rail with the two factory torx bolts. They're hard to see, so it takes a little feeling around to get them undone. I found this speaker cover harder to remove compared to the corners. I pulled from the windshield back and it took a bit of force to get the back off.
You'll also have to be cognizant of the USB plug (in the front) and gently bend that as you remove the cover (it is attached to the cover). You may need to move the factory cable inside the console to the side to get the speaker to seat properly. Between the center channel speaker cable and USB cable, it is a bit more crowded than the corner speakers.
Getting the cover back on took a little more effort to get the rear clips (closest to the dash) to seat. I used a trim tool to push the clips back horizontally into place (the back gets put in first) while putting downward pressure to get them to snap down. Once the back is properly seated, just work the usb plug back in its spot and the front clips in easily. Nice improvement in SQ and a must, IMO if you are going to replace the corner dash speakers.
Should take 30 minutes. You'll need a pry tool, Torx (t-20 or t-25) driver and 7mm socket.
Rear Speakers
These are by far the easiest to replace. You don't need a pry tool to remove the covers, just squeeze either side and it pops off. Speakers come out with two phillips screws. Wish they were all this easy. Not a huge improvement in sound, but they're a little more clear and it rounds out the highs nicely. If you wanted to skip replacing these to save a little money, I would go right to a sub replacement.
Should take 15 minutes and you just need a Phillips head screw driver.
Kick Panels
I read a lot of mixed things on replacing these speakers. I went with the Focal ACX 165s (with the free installation kit from crutchfield). Bottom line is the factory amp doesn't have enough power to drive a good set of aftermarket 6.5" speakers and the factory amp filters out highs, so 2-ways are useless.
I think I lost a hair of volume with the focals but maybe picked up a little crispness in the bass. I did a lot of back and forth testing (passenger speaker swapped, driver speaker stock) and this is one you can skip. I already had one speaker installed and for $135, it wasn't worth uninstalling it and returning them. I also am going to add an aftermarket sub, so I figured whatever little bit I lost in mid volume will be replaced by the new sub.
EDIT: after some more listening, I would skip replacing these. No noticeable improvement in SQ and you may even lose a little volume.
The installation on these was a bit more challenging. The screws that come with the focal acx 165 speakers will not fit in the Bronco. They are 1.5" screws and the metra extension plate is 1". Go to Home Depot and buy two packs of these (each speaker takes 8 screws). You can also do #6 x 3/4" screws, but you cannot do 1 1/4" and #8 screws will not fit with the focal speakers (the head is too big).
Link to Home Depot Screws
Once I got the right screws, the speakers mounted to the brackets easily and installation was straight forward (it's an awkward position to work in, but everything else is straight forward).
I highly suggest watching this YouTube video before doing it. They have a lot of great tips. Thanks! @1Five1 Garage.
Link to Focal ACX 165 Speakers
Should take about an hour for both (assuming you don't need to go to Home Depot 3 times for screws). You'll need a pry tool (for the driver foot rest cover), razor blade (to cut a hole in the foam to snake the new harness out of the speaker enclosure (watch the video below for an example), a 7mm socket (for the speakers) and a 10mm socket (for the driver side only to remove the foot rest).
Subwoofer
Probably the weakest link in the B&O stereo and almost every factory stereo is the sub. Subs require the most power to drive and are often jammed into awkward spaces to preserve space. The Bronco is no exception. I know a few people have tried to make the factory enclosure work with an aftermarket sub/amp, but IMO, you will be chasing a never ending stream of rattles. Those enclosures are not designed for acoustics and running any meaningful amount of power through them with an aftermarket sub will just result in even more plastic rattling and you'll constantly be trying to figure out a place to put dynamat/fill.
That said, this is a car I use every day and maintaining trunk space is important. I ordered this this Kicker down firing enclosure, Kicker Key 500.1 amp, Kicker bass control knob, Kicker amp installation kit and connector from Sounds Good Stereo (which allows you to plug right into the factory sub harness when you remove the speaker). I didn't think it is worth putting in anything more powerful, as it would overwhelm the mids/highs that are still powered by the factory B&O amp and I want something "tight" enough to still be musical, so a single sealed 10" was sufficient for me.
Link to Kicker Sub/Enclosure
Link to Kicker Amp
Link to Kicker Bass Control Knob
Link to Kicker Amp Installation Kit
Sounds Good Stereo Sub Harness
I'll lose minimal trunk space with this setup and can stack things on top without fear of damaging the speaker. Hopefully, in a pinch I can unplug the speaker wires, remove the enclosure and gain full function of the trunk and everything else (amp, power, ground, RCAs, remote control wires) is hidden.
EDIT: The shop I was going to have do the install couldn't get the kicker key amp or enclosure from their supplier, so I asked if it were ok if I purchased them online and had them install them since crutchfield and Best Buy had them in stock. They agreed, so my plan was to have them install them next week. I ended up ordering a kicker 8-gauge amp install kit too, just to make things easy.
THE POWER AND GROUND WIRES IN MOST AMP KITS ARE BARELY LONG ENOUGH. YOU'RE BETTER OFF BUYING YOUR OWN POWER/GROUND CABLES. The kicker power cable is 17', which is enough to get to the middle of the trunk. If you want to mount on the passenger side panel, I'd order 25'. Ground I would go with 10'. That is more then enough for both but cable is cheap and I'd rather have a little extra.
I thought I would remove the trunk panels myself. Between the good instructions (attached) and some patience, I figured I would do a more careful job than the stereo shop. It isn't particularly hard, just take your time and a good set of interior trim removal tools will help. You WILL snap a couple of these two piece clips no matter how careful you are, order a couple sets (they come in packs of 4 ahead of time). Most online retailers sell them for $5 a pack.
I still had the front kick panel off from replacing the 6.5" speaker, so I figured I might as well pull the power and bass control remote knob wires. Once you have the trunk panels and driver kick panel off, it's very easy. Cut a hole in the grommet to the engine bay and it is easy enough to snake them along the driver side. I used a coat hanger to pull them between the front driver door and rear driver door to avoid having to pull that A-pillar.
After I got the power/remote cables pulled to the trunk and zip tied up, I started looking for a good place to mount the Kicker Key amp. Surprisingly, there aren't a lot of good hidden places. Under the rear seats doesn't fit when you fold them down. The driver side panel in the trunk doesn't have anything beside an area all the way in the rear by the hatch but still wasn't ideal. The passenger side doesn't work unless you remove the sub enclosure (which I didn't want to do because the harness I am using to tap the signal requires the factory connectors in the sub enclosure and since the B&O amp is mounted to the sub enclosure, you'd have to fab something up to mount that as well). I also thought about putting the amp in the empty sub enclosure but worried it would be difficult to secure and could rattle around. Finally, anything behind one of the panels would be difficult to access if I needed to. While you shouldn't have to tinker with the amp after getting it set up, I am sure something would come loose eventually and I am stuck tearing the trunk apart again.
My first thought was to mount it in the washout container beneath the trunk floor. After getting the wires run back to the trunk, I think the power and ground (even 8 gauge) is too thick to run beneath the carpeted floor without it buckling up. Possible, but not ideal. So my plan now is to use one of these to create a quick disconnect system and mount the amp in the trunk next to (possible attached to the sub box).
EDIT 2: A little more progress over the weekend. The Sounds Good Stereo adapter came (fits perfectly to factory harnesses -- note you'll need female to female RCA adapters (assuming both ends of your RCA cables are male). Two pictures below, one with the cables/connector out of the sub enclosure so you can see them and one with everything tucked back in. I'll put a little electrical tape over them to keep them in place, but with the panels back on, they won't go anywhere and reversing it is as simple as unplugging the harnesses and plugging them back onto the factory sub. Nothing in this install involved cutting or tapping a single wire / part in the car.
Amp set and ready for the power, ground and speaker cables (just waiting for some ferrules and the scosche quick disconnect kit).
Bass knob mounted up front:
Conclusion
Someone looking for a more budget friendly alternative could replace only the front three 4" speakers and add a Kicker HS10 powered sub. For ~$500 that stereo would satisfy most and probably be 90% as good as what I am doing.
Hope some of this is helpful to other people. While annoying that the factory radio is as underwhelming as it is, for under $1,000 you can turn it into something that most will be happy with.
View attachment 307796
The cost of the NavTv unit alone is close to what I paid for all my new focal speakers (minus the 6.5"s), kicker key 500.1 amp and kicker 10" downfiring enclosure. I may do it to the raptor, but this one sounds pretty damn good for now.
The base stereos are probably better for upgrading purposes since you don't need the NavTV unit. One of the plug and play kits, the kicker 200.4 and 500.1 decent sub/enclosure, and a nice pair of front components and that is a great system. I would skip the factory B&O enclosure. The rattles are pretty awful stock and with an aftermarket sub are going to be terrible unless you dynamat the crap out of it.Looking good
I have all this ready for when ever the Bronco decides to get here.
Sounds Good Stereo makes really nice kick panel brackets that I drilled and tapped some m4 screws
I also made my own dash and rear speaker harnesses from the part #s listed previously and prewired 300hz bass blockers on the fronts
I have a plug n play kit coming for the 200.4
My goal is to find a B&O sub enclosure and 2 door rear panel to use but wire my own sub, I just can’t find the 2 door rear panel part number that has the B&O grill
Did you check and see if there was space to fit the Key 500 under the dash? I've seen various builds so far where the Key 200 is mounted there. Also, do you find the Focals to be 'bright'. I had a set of their aluminum tweets in my Jeep and it was almost unbearable. Very clear, very crisp, but caused serious ear fatigue in short time, even at low volumes. I know these don't have a metal tweet, but wanted your thoughts.
I think the Key 200 makes sense to mount up front because that is where you tap into the factory harness, but for a sub amp, the trunk made more sense since I am tapping into the factory sub harness and the speaker wire needs to go to the trunk for the box anyway.
