Oil change for Bronco Raptor 3.0L engine (DIY video)

[BroncoWTFAN]

Yeah, I did the same search when I was about to do my oil change. No video for the Braptor.

After watching the 2.7l Bronco oil change, I crawled underneath the Braptor and noticed it was no different. Easy oil change for sure. The longest part is waiting for all the oil to stop dripping out.

I just did my Badlands SAS at 2000 miles and it was very simple from start to finish.

Notes:
If you remove the yellow drain plug from a left angle (In front) and not the right (behind) you won't spill a drop or have it run down your arm. I let it sit for about an hour to fully drain as it takes a while. I actually also reused the yellow plug, but next time will replace it with the same exact plug.

It's really simple to do, very easy job as shown in the video.

1 - Remove oil fill cap
2 - Remove oil plug (Some models have a metal shield in that area, just remove it first, loosen front two and remove the back two)
3 - Remove oil filter housing (plastic 27mm top, use the right socket to remove)
4 - Wait an hour for it to drain completely (really wait till it barely drips)
5 - Replace filter and the 3 o-rings, use your finger with a dab of oil to moisten the rings (Note : The tiny one is a pain to get back on but nothing crazy)
6 - Reinstall filter and cover (Tighten to torque spec or just till it stops, do not over tighten)
7 - Reinstall drain plug, also moisten the ring with a dab of oil first.
8 - For 2.7 fill oil using 6.5 qts. (Or whatever you think as this is debated between 6 thru 7 qts.)
9 - Replace oil fill cap
10 - Run the no start process for 10 seconds (Brake and Gas depressed)
11 - Check oil level as per the dipstick hash marks
12 - Start for a while and stop
13 - Check oil level as well as for any leaking around the yellow plug
14- Replace metal shield if removed underneath
15 - Done, go for a drive and enjoy your bronco

Parts needed
Oil (Synthetic 5-30W) - I went with the OEM Motorcraft blend
Filter - OEM which now looks different from the factory installed one
Tools (27mm socket, 15mm socket for the body armor plate)
Torque wrench is ideal to have, but can be done without
Pliers or wrench to start the turn of the plastic plug, very light pressure needed

Does anyone know the Ford part number for the OEM yellow plug? The ones on amazon are not OEM rather copies which look exactly 100% the same. Also which filter is an upgrade from the newer OEM ones as they changed to no longer have rubber top and bottom.

The sliver metal shavings were for sure in the membranes but not a crazy amount.

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[Tex]

The sliver metal shavings were for sure in the membranes but not a crazy amount.

I've inspected hundreds of oil filters on aircraft and the one thing that I had trouble with starting out was discerning with my unaided eye whether that shiny thing was metal or a carbon flake. Usually had to get it under a digital microscope and take a closer look while seeing if it would bend or crumble. Only found a handful of actual metal flakes in the couple decades I've been inspecting them, and they were pretty obvious. Based on what it looks like in your pic, I'm going to say it's far more likely to be a carbon flake than metal, they both look nearly identical. See if you can get those shavings out and test to see if they're metallic or not. If they crumble when you press a pin into them, they're just carbon deposits. If you pin leaves a dent or bends them, it's metal.

Also, take a knife and cut the ends off the filter so you can look at the entire filter as a flat surface. It's way easier than trying to pull the folds apart to inspect. You can wash it in acetone and see what falls out, check it with a magnet, etc. A few tiny slivers of metal are nothing to worry about, especially with a new engine, and if you get a smudge of magnetic dust on a magnet, that's normal wear as well. Bearing metal is non-magnetic, so if you see a lot of metal flakes and they're non-magnetic, you're likely rapidly wearing through a bearing, a piston is scaping against the cylinder, or something to that effect. That's when you want to be concerned.

 

[BCRaptor]

As for the warranty piece of mind. It’s really simple once you get in the habit.
1) buy a folder or ziplock bag
2) put your oil receipt and filter receipts in it. Write the date and the mileage on the receipt.
3) take picture of odometer.

Not hard to prove regular oil changes. I change my oil before the recommended oil life indicator. It’s too long for a high performance engine in my opinion and I prefer to use high end oils like motul or redline. I pay still under the stealership prices with better fluids. Just my two cents.

 

[Dom]

I wonder if the Ronin plug would work on the raptor engine.

https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory

 

[swamp2]

I wonder if the Ronin plug would work on the raptor engine.

https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory

Pretty sure that will fit. This one will for sure and is very cool.

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

 

[Code Orange]

I wonder if the Ronin plug would work on the raptor engine.

https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory

The Ronin plug works as well. I installed one last month in my Bronco Raptor.

 

[Cactus Jack]

Ice, watched your video and noticed something. When you start up your Bronco Raptor after changing the oil, the Ford chime is a different type of chime. Listen closely, it sounds like the chime of a different Ford vehicle.

I am having the same issue with my 2022 Bronco Raptor. Not sure why it does it. Thanks for the upload. Going to change my oil Wednesday. Just about to pass 5,000 miles.

Hey everyone my sincere apologies if someone has already posted a video on how to change your oil. And even for me I did a search engine and YouTube search to see any videos on this and decided to make one. If their is already a thread than just shut it down not here to promote my channel being I make no money yeh no money no lie. Anyways here ya go and it’s for us not everyone else is my point.

 

[Ice Age]

Ice, watched your video and noticed something. When you start up your Bronco Raptor after changing the oil, the Ford chime is a different type of chime. Listen closely, it sounds like the chime of a different Ford vehicle.

I am having the same issue with my 2022 Bronco Raptor. Not sure why it does it. Thanks for the upload. Going to change my oil Wednesday. Just about to pass 5,000 miles.

Hmm, damn you have really good hearing and wow this is interesting now you have me wondering. Thank you for the support.

 

[TallDude]

As for the warranty piece of mind. It’s really simple once you get in the habit.
1) buy a folder or ziplock bag
2) put your oil receipt and filter receipts in it. Write the date and the mileage on the receipt.
3) take picture of odometer.

Not hard to prove regular oil changes. I change my oil before the recommended oil life indicator. It’s too long for a high performance engine in my opinion and I prefer to use high end oils like motul or redline. I pay still under the stealership prices with better fluids. Just my two cents.

I was gonna say, as long as you file away the receipts and take pictures as back-ups, that should be good enough to prove it was done, yeah?

 

[vrtical]

I forgot to look at what the oil pressure is in these things at idle before change was looking at temp.

What are people seeing for oil pressure at idle?

 

[Ice Age]

I forgot to look at what the oil pressure is in these things at idle before change was looking at temp.

What are people seeing for oil pressure at idle?

Go to the 33 minute mark it’s pretty low.

 

[ChiliPepper]

As for the warranty piece of mind. It’s really simple once you get in the habit.
1) buy a folder or ziplock bag
2) put your oil receipt and filter receipts in it. Write the date and the mileage on the receipt.
3) take picture of odometer.

Not hard to prove regular oil changes. I change my oil before the recommended oil life indicator. It’s too long for a high performance engine in my opinion and I prefer to use high end oils like motul or redline. I pay still under the stealership prices with better fluids. Just my two cents.

Best just to enter it on your Ford Pass account, then you and the rest of the Ford world has the same info. Go paperless!

Use Ford's Gold 172-pt checklist as a reminder and to record data in PDF; see attached. Pick and choose as needed; I typically only verify 15-20 items.

• Oil/filter and tire rotation at 5,000 mi intervals (my choice)
• Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic, 5w30, 3x5qt jugs, $72 (two oil changes)
• Motorcraft oil filter, FL-2062-A, $9.45
• UPR drain plug, 3025-02
• Change oil/filter
  • See post 16; Same instructions for Braptor w/ 3.0L
  • lift driver's side via ramp to help drainage
• Reset oil life monitor, p.355 of Owner's Manual
• Recycle oil at closest auto parts store for free
• Cost: $46 and 30-45 minutes (depending on drainage time)
  • spend your wait time doing other inspections
    • Inspect brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, brake linings, hoses and parking brake, brake fluid level
    • Inspect engine cooling system level, strength and hoses
    • Inspect exhaust system and heat shields
    • Inspect half-shaft boots
    • Inspect rear axle and U-joints. Lubricate if equipped with grease fittings.
    • Inspect steering linkage, ball joints, suspension, tie-rod ends, drive shaft and U-joints. Lubricate if equipped with grease fittings
    • Inspect the automatic transmission fluid level
    • Inspect the wheels and related components
    • Inspect battery
    • Inspect interior and exterior lights
    • Inspect wiper blades
• Rotate the tires, 5-tire rotation (my choice)
  • This is a big job given each Braptor tire assembly weighs about 100 lbs
  • Inspect tire wear
  • Measure tread depth and record
  • Check tire pressures
  • Torque lug nuts properly; Braptor: M14x1.5, 150 ft-lbs

 

[Raptor911]

FYI ... all yellow plugs on all Ford plastic pans are the same plug as in they are all the same size

I wonder if the Ronin plug would work on the raptor engine.

https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory

 

[Raptor911]

Watching this again and the OP says 7.5quarts when it should be 7.0 >> https://media.ford.com/content/dam/...or/pdf/2022-Ford-Bronco-Raptor-Tech-Specs.pdf

 

[Krieger]

Hey everyone my sincere apologies if someone has already posted a video on how to change your oil. And even for me I did a search engine and YouTube search to see any videos on this and decided to make one. If their is already a thread than just shut it down not here to promote my channel being I make no money yeh no money no lie. Anyways here ya go and it’s for us not everyone else is my point.

Which hood bra did you find to fit the Raptor?

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