Owning your Bronco for decades. Best practices?

[JJ Bronco]

I decided very early after taking possession of my Bronco last year that I am going to own it forever.

So beginning with the end in mind, beyond obvious oil changes/basic maintenance what are the truly important things to do along the way with long term ownership in mind?

Not looking to just throw money at the problem, looking for what is tried and true prevent the usual killers of older cars like rot and rust and the like.

I live in the MidWest. It's my daily driver.

Please post your advice and experiences.

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[BroncoA512021]

Proper maintenance and washing it often and properly will make any car last "forever"

 

[Beach_Bum]

Best advice for you - don't daily drive your Bronco in the Midwest winters. The pre-storm brine treatment is cancer for vehicles.

 

[Fly]

Maybe a clear PPF to protect the paint? At least hood/front fenders/rocker panels. I’m in the same boat and considering going this route.

 

[JJ Bronco]

Best advice for you - don't daily drive your Bronco in the Midwest winters. The pre-storm brine treatment is cancer for vehicles.

My biggest concern.

What can be done to maybe not eliminate this problem but possibly lessen it I would love to read about.

 

[bcb1]

I decided very early after taking possession of my Bronco last year that I am going to own it forever.

So beginning with the end in mind, beyond obvious oil changes/basic maintenance what are the truly important things to do along the way with long term ownership in mind?

Not looking to just throw money at the problem, looking for what is tried and true prevent the usual killers of older cars like rot and rust and the like.

I live in the MidWest. It's my daily driver.

Please post your advice and experiences.

I've always been a clean car fanatic and maintenance fanatic. Wash/wax weekly, keep interior clean, change oil every 5,000-7,000 miles even though I use Mobil 1 full synthetic, and don't run the piss out of the vehicle. Accelerate gently, brake gently. Do those things and the vehicle will last as long as you feel like keeping it. I've proven this over and over again since my 20's. Being a car guy, I've owned a lot of cars. I can tell you, it works.

 

[bcb1]

My biggest concern.

What can be done to maybe not eliminate this problem but possibly lessen it I would love to read about.

Easy. I live in the mid-Atlantic where they brine the roads even if there is a hint that possibly, maybe we might get bad weather, lol.

The remedy is this new invention that they just came out with - it's called a car wash. Yes, even in cold weather. Get that s*it off your vehicle as soon as the bad weather is over. Even in winter, I wash and wax it once a week. My vehicles always look new - or as close as possible to it - even after they're 7-8 years old.

 

[Calm horse]

Luckily mine is kept in a temperature controlled garage all day..garage stays at 65 degrees year round....the sun and mud are probably the worst enemies here in the south...I would imagine salt is the worst in the north.
I use nothing but top tier fuel and 93 octane..I have not changed oil yet. Only have 4700 miles on it..but will do so soon..and I will most likely use full synthetic.

 

[Arrowbear Rider]

I was going to say regular detailing, keep things clean and protected. "Dirt holds in moister and moister equals corrosion." I've been saying this for years and my 9 year old 2014 motorcycle looks almost new because it's kept clean and detailed.

Best advice for you - don't daily drive your Bronco in the Midwest winters. The pre-storm brine treatment is cancer for vehicles.

This is going to be your biggest challenge to forever ownership in the Midwest, so if it's driven daily, regular undercarriage washings and cleaning of the body and trim too with wax and rubber protection applied more often will help. Maybe buy a pressure washers, it shouldn't be too hard to reach half way under from both sides with a wand.

 

[Beach_Bum]

I was going to say regular detailing, keep things clean and protected. "Dirt holds in moister and moister equals corrosion." I've been saying this for years and my 9 year old 2014 motorcycle looks almost new because it's kept clean and detailed.


This is going to be your biggest challenge to forever ownership in the Midwest, so if it's driven daily, regular undercarriage washings and cleaning of the body and trim too with wax and rubber protection applied more often will help. Maybe buy a pressure washers, it shouldn't be too hard to reach half way under from both sides with a wand.

The best recommendation is to use an undercarriage power washer attachment. The wand alone just wont get in the nooks and crannies.

 

[MNbronco]

My biggest concern.

What can be done to maybe not eliminate this problem but possibly lessen it I would love to read about.

look at lanolin undercoating, it works and no reason to be scared in winter. I daily my Bronco in MN and have no concerns.

 

[HeliPilot]

I've always been a clean car fanatic and maintenance fanatic. Wash/wax weekly, keep interior clean, change oil every 5,000-7,000 miles even though I use Mobil 1 full synthetic, and don't run the piss out of the vehicle. Accelerate gently, brake gently. Do those things and the vehicle will last as long as you feel like keeping it. I've proven this over and over again since my 20's. Being a car guy, I've owned a lot of cars. I can tell you, it works.

This, I’ve never had a major failure on any of my vehicles because I don’t dog-them, I maintain according to the manufacture schedule, and always clean them. My brother…just the opposite, and he can’t seem to keep a vehicle on the road. His stuff always needs an engine overhaul, brake work, trans issues…etc

 

[RagnarKon]

People have already mentioned it, but the salt brine is going to be your biggest issue.

When I lived in Arizona I kept vehicles on the road to 320,000+ miles and 20+ years. I moved to the northeast several years ago, and I can tell it's going to be difficult to do the same here. I have a 2013 Focus that I've had for 10 years (bought Nov. 2012), and that thing looks WAY worse than my 1991 Ford Escort that I had for 21 years and drove 289,000 miles.

A lot of people will suggest an oil-based underbody coatings. I personally do not like those coatings... I prefer regular car washes and an underbody spray pressure washer attachment (as @Beach_Bum suggested). BUT, I fully admit those oil-based coatings require a less care during the winter and are probably best for most people--unlikely the average person will want to be out in 34 degree weather washing their car in the middle of winter.

After winter I will also hop under my vehicles and tackle rust spots with a wire wheel and spray paint to try to keep it at bay. It's annoying and time consuming, but it works as long as you keep up with it.

All that said... realistically... if you are daily driving this thing in the midwest you're probably only going to be able to get 15 years out of it before it becomes a losing battle. Just the reality of living in the midwest. It is obviously possible to keep it for longer, but if we're being honest most people (myself included) lose interest in maintaining their new vehicle within the first ~5 years of ownership. Not a bad thing necessarily... just life gets in the way and your focus moves elsewhere.

 

[John Bronco_ I am here]

I'm working in Omaha now, and can tell you the amount of cancer I see makes me sick to my stomach. It is like living in a horror movie. Ok, I'm an enthusiast and some people just don't care. I like the project I'm doing now but can't wait to get out of this cancer-causing agent.

Anywho, the secret to long life is changing your fluids and greasing where you have zerk fittings. I change my fluids twice as often as is recommended. Also, change after the break-in period. First oil change is at ~500 miles and I change differentials about 10K. After that the transmission, transfer case, and diffs about every 30K. The key is to get the break-in metals out of there and then keep the fluids changed so the additives don't have time to break down.

I do overkill and do short change intervals till the fluid comes out clean, then get on the longer duration change schedule.....which are twice what is recommend for extreme duty. Some may say it is a waste however, I do my own work so the money "saved" on the cost of labor I just put into higher quality fluids and more changes.

Edit: Extended change intervals so popular now are of the devil....my mama', my mama' said...

 

[Fly by Nite]

Keeping it out of the sun when possible will extend the life of the paint, plastics and interior. Park it in a garage if you have one or even under a car port.
Put a towel on your seat to keep dirt and wear from affecting the upholstery.

Keep it clean, keep it lubricated, and change fluids when necessary.

Don't let the engine or transmission overheat.

I am a fan of using a anti-rust treatment such as the lanolin-based Fluid Film. It will creep into crevices and keep moisture out. That feature will even prolong the life f the nuts and bolts holding your Bronco together, and make repairs much easier.... there's nothing more frustrating than trying to remove fasteners that are rusted solid in place.

Driving style can affect life of components. When parking, don't turn the wheels unless the vehicle is moving a bit. Trying to turn wheels that are stationary put's a lot of strain on steering linkage, it's far easier to turn the wheels if it's moving even a little bit.

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