Recommendations for stereo upgrade

[Peter_benton]

Looking to build the unlimited stereo upgrade.. don’t need the trunk filled with sub. Looking for audiophile top of the line.

probablyJL speakers but open to better.

would love reformations and advice

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[silentd74]

Start reading in this forum. Like pages deep. Many many posts about this. You will probably not get 'audiophile top of the line' without a separate sub box. But this one is a hell of a build so far.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/stereo-overhaul-mild-documentation.70799/

You have B&O, you're looking at some $$$$ to get what you want. IMO, you'll always be lacking bottom end if you don't add a sub. Whether a box on the floor or mounted to the tailgate. The JL Stealth box might be a compromise but not cheap.

With my B&O so far I've swapped all stock speakers to JL C2 6.5" component, 4" coaxial dash corners, PRV 4" mid for center, and Kicker KS coax for the rear 4" pods. I added a Kicker 12" solo-baric shallow sub in a down-firing box that is 21 x 13 x 9.5 tall, and a Kicker KEY500.1 amp. Clarity is better, bass is 100x better. No panel rattle because the B&O sub is disconnected. I do want to replace the DSP / AMP so I have control over the factory location upgraded speakers but at $1000+ I'm not in a hurry right now.

Plenty of threads from mild to wild on this. Just have to make sure you're looking at B&O specific ones. Any Bronco with B&O is not a simple add some amps and speakers and call it a day build. The heart of the B&O is an A2B DSP. An aftermarket A2B DSP is needed first if you want to amplify all of the 4" and 6.5" speakers.

 

[Frankie945]

For me adding a sub made the most change to the better in sound quality. I’ve got a kicker hideaway HS10 sub.

 

[Peter_benton]

Very helpful! Thank you

 

[Peter_benton]

Start reading in this forum. Like pages deep. Many many posts about this. You will probably not get 'audiophile top of the line' without a separate sub box. But this one is a hell of a build so far.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/stereo-overhaul-mild-documentation.70799/

You have B&O, you're looking at some $$$$ to get what you want. IMO, you'll always be lacking bottom end if you don't add a sub. Whether a box on the floor or mounted to the tailgate. The JL Stealth box might be a compromise but not cheap.

With my B&O so far I've swapped all stock speakers to JL C2 6.5" component, 4" coaxial dash corners, PRV 4" mid for center, and Kicker KS coax for the rear 4" pods. I added a Kicker 12" solo-baric shallow sub in a down-firing box that is 21 x 13 x 9.5 tall, and a Kicker KEY500.1 amp. Clarity is better, bass is 100x better. No panel rattle because the B&O sub is disconnected. I do want to replace the DSP / AMP so I have control over the factory location upgraded speakers but at $1000+ I'm not in a hurry right now.

Plenty of threads from mild to wild on this. Just have to make sure you're looking at B&O specific ones. Any Bronco with B&O is not a simple add some amps and speakers and call it a day build. The heart of the B&O is an A2B DSP. An aftermarket A2B DSP is needed first if you want to amplify all of the 4" and 6.5" speakers.

Will search out the best A2B DSP!

 

[35tires]

I'm going audiophile 'you're not a well person' with my stereo and it's about pieced together I think, but there are measurements to be made:

Focal ES 165kx2 up front and in rear. JL audio amp I think (I'm still on the fence) and a Focal P 20 FSE. Add a nice DSP like the audiocontrol dm-608 and some tuning and my bronco won't sound like total crap.

I'll end up in the 6-8k range when done.


* edit: I will be having a custom box made which is a must. Couple that with sound deadening in the spots I feel need it to just keep some road noise out. I know it's a fools errand but I'd like to nip a few rattles and the fact that the rear storage is just a hole in the floor can be problematic at best.

I talked to someone who builds super high end systems and I'm at the limit where you stop gaining value with a car built like ours. This satisfies my 'I need to hear every drum beat and snare' and the trucks inability to become a real impressive sound stage. This will not be a LOUD stereo, it could get loud, but this will sound amazing at all volumes even at high speed on the highway, roof off.

 

[silentd74]

I'm going audiophile 'you're not a well person' with my stereo and it's about pieced together I think, but there are measurements to be made:

Focal ES 165kx2 up front and in rear. JL audio amp I think (I'm still on the fence) and a Focal P 20 FSE. Add a nice DSP like the audiocontrol dm-608 and some tuning and my bronco won't sound like total crap.

I'll end up in the 6-8k range when done.


* edit: I will be having a custom box made which is a must. Couple that with sound deadening in the spots I feel need it to just keep some road noise out. I know it's a fools errand but I'd like to nip a few rattles and the fact that the rear storage is just a hole in the floor can be problematic at best.

I talked to someone who builds super high end systems and I'm at the limit where you stop gaining value with a car built like ours. This satisfies my 'I need to hear every drum beat and snare' and the trucks inability to become a real impressive sound stage. This will not be a LOUD stereo, it could get loud, but this will sound amazing at all volumes even at high speed on the highway, roof off.

If you have B&O (Lux) you'll need a pre A2B DSP like the moBridge DA-G2.Pro ahead of the DM-608. I've eyeballed the DM-608 for a couple years personally. But to deal with B&O DSP, you need an A2B specific processor first. The moBridge will then connect to your DM-608 via toslink / digital.

The A2B DSP / AMP solution from moBridge has really peaked my interest. This is an all in one so to speak solution for the B&O DSP. This lets you amplify all factory channels with control. Then has an output for separate sub amp + an output with control for factory location sub. It replaces the module attached to the B&O enclosure via Bronco specific harness adapter and mounting plate. Not sure how much the full Bronco kit will be but the DSP / Amp is $1500.

https://mobridge.us/product/mobridge-bo-a2b-ford-amp/

If you do not have B&O, sky is the limit with more "simple" harness adapters. See Ragnarkon's threads.

When you have B&O the sky limit is the starting point lol.

 

[Peter_benton]

If you have B&O (Lux) you'll need a pre A2B DSP like the moBridge DA-G2.Pro ahead of the DM-608. I've eyeballed the DM-608 for a couple years personally. But to deal with B&O DSP, you need an A2B specific processor first. The moBridge will then connect to your DM-608 via toslink / digital.

The A2B DSP / AMP solution from moBridge has really peaked my interest. This is an all in one so to speak solution for the B&O DSP. This lets you amplify all factory channels with control. Then has an output for separate sub amp + an output with control for factory location sub. It replaces the module attached to the B&O enclosure via Bronco specific harness adapter and mounting plate. Not sure how much the full Bronco kit will be but the DSP / Amp is $1500.

https://mobridge.us/product/mobridge-bo-a2b-ford-amp/

If you do not have B&O, sky is the limit with more "simple" harness adapters. See Ragnarkon's threads.

When you have B&O the sky limit is the starting point lol.

I have B&O and ready for the sky!

 

[35tires]

If you do not have B&O, sky is the limit with more "simple" harness adapters. See Ragnarkon's threads.

No B&O. 4 door base. None of the 'upgrades' made sense because I was changing almost everything anyway. I appreciate the heads up!

 

[ejaffe]

Plenty of opinions and threads on this topic. All I can add is that I happily upgraded everything but ended up a bit disappointed because no matter what you do, sound deadening and acoustic control is very limited. My goal was good quality sound which I have but is not overly loud and the road noise takes away from the quality. Sounds good at stop lights though.

 

[silentd74]

Plenty of opinions and threads on this topic. All I can add is that I happily upgraded everything but ended up a bit disappointed because no matter what you do, sound deadening and acoustic control is very limited. My goal was good quality sound which I have but is not overly loud and the road noise takes away from the quality. Sounds good at stop lights though.

What did you go with? My first test drive was with 4 windows down. Clarity is way better and at say 18 on volume wind noise doesn't totally diminish sound. It does a little on the mid range but highs are still clear and my external sub performs. I also drove 4 windows down / front tops out and it sounds way better than stock at 55mph. Again though 18 - 22 vol. I can go to 30 vol depending on the song with no distortion. typically though around 23 I start to get a little rattle from somewhere. I did 0 sound deadening.

My kick panel speakers are JL C2-650 component woofers using the JL crossovers. My dash speakers all have 300hz bass blockers attached. Rear pods have no blockers. My bass setting in the radio is at 0 with treble 3 clicks up, midrange 2 clicks. I adjust treble and mid depending on the music type. Surround mode / no speed sensitive adjustment.

If you've replaced the stock speakers, look into blockers and possibly some sort of passive crossover for your kicks. If you went coaxial for the kicks, you may not get the mid out of them like the stock kicks. Highs coming from the kicks are really not needed.
I'm still contemplating going with 6.5 midbass and the pod upgrade but I won't do that until I can amp and control those speakers. The Kickers (coaxial) in the pods sound better than stock but they add highs behind you that are really not proper sound stage. But I am in surround mode because overall it sounded better to me.

All of my changes were pieced together from the numerous posts here and what people tested to their liking. Between the info to dig into all of the panels, to the huge differences of opinions on speakers, I found it all excellent. I don't have an endless budget but knew I wanted to try certain speakers.

My wife's 23 OBX Lux is next. Her's will get a set of Morel Maximo 6 components that I have already, another PRV center, and probably JL C1 coaxial in the dash as I have a set of C2 4" coming tomorrow to swap out the C1 from mine. I haven't decided on her pods or sub yet.

I have the plates to try to mount only the component tweeters in the dash corners but I wanted to see if I'd get any midrange with a 4" coaxial. It's subtle so I may try the Morel tweeters in hers. Not sure yet.

All of this is purely my opinions and experiences with my 22 OBX Lux so far.

 

[ejaffe]

I went with Kicker KS all around and replaced the rear 4” pods with 6 ½” in the REA. I have an Audio Control LC1300 amp and kicker 12” sub. Funny you mention you play at level 18. I am usually between 14-16 with the windows or roof down. I set up the amp with volume at ⅔ when setting the gains. Not sure that created an issue but it seemed to be a good level to set at. Very clear, no distortion. Haven’t tried playing over 20

 

[MOBRONCO]

Actual top of the line will be something like Focal Utopia, Morel Supremo, Dynaudio Esotar, Accuton Diamond, Audison Thesis. These are going to $2K to $15K plus speakers alone.

 

[ejaffe]

I thought $2k all in was a good budget for me. If I could do it again I would have gotten a separate sub amp though… closer to 1000 amps

 

[silentd74]

I went with Kicker KS all around and replaced the rear 4” pods with 6 ½” in the REA. I have an Audio Control LC1300 amp and kicker 12” sub. Funny you mention you play at level 18. I am usually between 14-16 with the windows or roof down. I set up the amp with volume at ⅔ when setting the gains. Not sure that created an issue but it seemed to be a good level to set at. Very clear, no distortion. Haven’t tried playing over 20

I'm guessing you had the base audio system? I've never tuned at 2/3 volume. A friend of mine would do something similar but it always seems like the system ran out of headroom. He would typically have the gains maybe 5% lower than I liked. So I would add a little gain at a time at lower volume to get it where I wanted.

Him and I go way back to programming Sony Mobile ES XDP-210 and 4000x dsp units. I still have one of each of those units and a few Mobile ES cd head units from back then. (late 90s). Unfortunately they are not installed in anything now.

I want to be able to turn it up when needed like windows down / roof off or just because. But I also want everything present between say 10-15.

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