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thewodg

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I was able to remove and re-install my wheel rings without issue. I only used hand tools.
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I was able to remove and re-install my wheel rings without issue. I only used hand tools.
Now that makes for a long job....
 

thewodg

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Now that makes for a long job....
A little less than an hour each time. The removal was actually more difficult than the re-install. I recommend wearing gloves during removal to avoid chewing up your palms as you stabilize the ratchet.

I was too scared to use power towels based on others' experiences...
 

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Mine went on easy...I used sealant around the metal ring where the face meets the wheel. This prevents leak problems others have had. They can leak between the ring and wheel.
 

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1678373430376.jpeg
One of the first mods I did. No problems with the bolts either. Great choice.
Nice work, looks great. How did you blackout the Bronco emblem in the middle?
 

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Mine went on easy...I used sealant around the metal ring where the face meets the wheel. This prevents leak problems others have had. They can leak between the ring and wheel.
Really? I haven't seen anybody post this yet. If there is a leak there, you have a defective wheel.
 

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Has anyone just removed the silver rings and not put anything on the wheel?

How’s that look?
 
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Has anyone just removed the silver rings and not put anything on the wheel?

How’s that look?
Yes. It looks fine but some wheels are black underneath and some are silver.
There are pictures in other threads
 

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Really? I haven't seen anybody post this yet. If there is a leak there, you have a defective wheel.
No, others have had this problem (for years),the metal to metal contact is not always naturally air tight. The military uses a gasket or jumbo O ring for this exact rwason.Try a search.
 

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Really? I haven't seen anybody post this yet. If there is a leak there, you have a defective wheel.
I think big meats bronco was talking about the true bead lock ring which sandwiches the outer tire bead between the wheel and ring, not the cosmetic trim ring.
 

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Just first 3 threads ,stainless bolt going into aluminum ,water and road salt could conspire to ruin your day next time you take them off.
The stainless steel bolts will corrode the aluminum alloy wheels. This is process called galvanic corrosion. The anti-sieze helps prevent the electron flow that causes the corrosion and provides a barrier against moisture (moisture speeds up the corrosion).

The factory "loctite" if applied correctly served the same purpose.
 

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Did mine today without issue. Loosened with long ratchet and backed out with drill. Reinstalled by hand. Left factory loctite on bolts. Decided not to use anti-seize. Thread locker serves same purpose. Just use a GOOD torx bit.
 

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Great thread! Plan on doing this until I can find funds for some Turbomacs. I was very concerned about the stuck bolt sitch…seems like hand tools are the way to go.

Anyone have rings powdercoated and able to share cost of that?
 

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I was able to successfully pull mine off with the correct TORX bit with no issue at all. There was a small amount of blue locktite but honestly it didn't seem to "lock" much at all.

I used an 18" breaker bar with lots of positive pressure "pushing" on the bit into the bolts while slowly introducing loosening pressure. Not a single one got marred at all. I put anti-sieze on the bolts for re-installation and that's all she wrote.

One thing worth mentioning, I could have sworn I saw photos of the SAS wheels without beauty rings and they were silver/unpainted underneath. My wheels where completely black so I almost didn't even paint the rings and left them off.

Edit: English is hard.
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