Swapping OEM for Class Three hitch

[Doc_Tyma]

Hello there -
I am thinking about swapping out the class 2 that comes with the Bronco towing option with a class three that has a longer shank. Has anyone done this and kept the 4/7 pin set? If so, what did you go with? TIA.

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[MNBigfoot]

The swap would take about 10 minutes, just can't think of a reason to do it.

 

[Doc TOC]

Putting a Class 3 where the current hitch is just gives you a more expensive Class 2 with a 2 inch throat. You are not improving the body area holding the hitch by putting on a Class 3. So, your 3500 lbs load limit has not changed.

There are C2 tube extenders, as well as extended length C2 hitches available, if length is your concern.

If tow capacity is your concern, you bought the wrong vehicle. What you can tow SAFELY, versus pushing the limits is a whole, longer discussion. You would be talking about engine/transmission sensor management, system programming, front and rear suspension changes, brakes, tires, frame rail mounting, blah blah blah

 

[da_jokker]

Yeah I read this thread hoping someone found a hitch that actually bolted to the "real frame" instead of that weaker cross member.

Until that happens, there is no point in upgrading the hitch.

 

[Hdscreens]

If you need longer shank to clear more of the rear spare tire just get a hitch extender.

 

[The Pope]

Yeah I read this thread hoping someone found a hitch that actually bolted to the "real frame" instead of that weaker cross member.

Until that happens, there is no point in upgrading the hitch.

Once a Frame Mounted Hitch for the new Ranger that shares the frame with the Bronco has been made by one of the aftermarket manufacturers, then there's a potential solution.

But just remember that the rear suspension (shocks/springs) should also be updated with stiffer components so that rear sag can be managed.

 

[MNBigfoot]

Once a Frame Mounted Hitch for the new Ranger that shares the frame with the Bronco has been made by one of the aftermarket manufacturers, then there's a potential solution.

But just remember that the rear suspension (shocks/springs) should also be updated with stiffer components so that rear sag can be managed.

Is the Rangers hitch tubing that is bolted between the 2 frame rails any stronger than the Bronco's crossmember that's welded between those 2 same frame rails?

 

[The Pope]

I don't know....

 

[Brian_B]

I never thought the 350lb weight limit was really because of the way the hitch was mounted. Yeah, it's a "bumper" hitch but it's welded to the frame, so it looks stout (to my highly trained precision eyeball ha)- it may not hold up to Class 4 1,000 lbs but I have no problem believing it can hold more than 350 lbs. After seeing how badly the rear end can sag, I always figured the suspension was the weakest link by far in towing. Even with stiffer springs, with independent suspension could exaggerate trailer sway.

 

[Doc TOC]

I always figured the suspension was the weakest link by far in towing. Even with stiffer springs, with independent suspension could exaggerate trailer sway.

This is a chicken vs egg conversation.

Mounting location and method (bolt, weld, reinforcement) determine both weight carrying capacity and sway - primarily because it relocates the center of gravity of the vehicle + whatever's attached. Suspension determines the ability to respond to that new center of gravity, new torque, and momentum(s). Engine/transmission/differential determine the ability to accelerate/decelerate the wheel torque applied (split by the differentials). The suspension directly affects the ability to stabilize the momentum. (Remember that vector stuff in high school - or maybe you missed that day.)

The weakest link in all of this is the driver's brain.
(I take no exception to this. In my early days I heated up some brake pads myself. So glad things have improved since then.)

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