Weathertech - Mud Flaps - "Coming Soon" on Website

[patch1103]

Excellent, excellent, excellent write-up and install pics. thank you!! They do look better than the pic Weathertech sent.

My pleasure!

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[Cat]

Thanks, Cat. Now that I've seen the picture I can understand why they have the "depression"...looks like it's to allow for door swing. They look a bit better with the tube steps, but still meh.

Yes...but for the price, no drilling...its a decent stop gap until a different flap comes along. Maybe Weathertech will keep reading this thread and improve on the design.

 

[Cat]

I just want to be clear…if anyone knows the correct answer please speak up. On the Weathertech order page, if you have SAS and OEM side steps, you select Wildtrak as your model, and they will fit an OBX with SAS?

In other words, if you have any model with SAS and the steps or rails, you select “Yes” for Wildtrak?

Let me send an e-mail to them about that. Good point.

 

[Jazer]

Hey all,

Promised pics ahead...

Ordered the Weathertech front and rear mudflaps Thursday evening and received them today (Saturday). I only live about 45 minutes from their Bolingbrook HQ so it was a pretty quick turnaround.

TL;DR: These look better in person than I expected.

Installation: This was pretty easy for both front and rear. The biggest challenge was that it's a pretty tight space in both locations, but as long as you have the right tools it's a piece of cake.

Speaking of tools, the instructions were straightforward and easy to follow, although they tell you you need a socket wrench (for front and rear) and a Phillips head screwdriver for the front, but they don't tell you what sizes of sockets. I'm here for you though, fam: you'll need an 8 mm for the front hex screws and a 10 mm for the rear hex screws. You'll also need a 15 mm for the two rear bolts. Oh, and you'll definitely need an extension for the rear two bolts (I used a 3/8").

In all, installation took about 45 minutes total for both sets. Once I got one side on, the other side went quicker because it was just the same thing in reverse. I found the passenger's side easier because I'm right-handed, so it made it easier with the tools. Oh, and it was 20 degrees out and I was wearing gloves, which may have slowed me down a bit.

It was nice to have a no-drill installation. You will end up replacing some of the original parts, so I recommend you save those if you think you might want to remove these later. Specifically, you'll replace four original fender liner screws on each side in the front, and you'll also remove three hex screws and the little plastic trim piece by the fender in the rear. These are now safely in a ziplock bag in my garage if I ever need them.

Fitment: No complaints here. They are well-engineered (as far as fit is concerned) and there were no issues at all fitting them on the Bronco. Also, you can tell that these things were really made with the tube steps in mind. The indent fits well around the end of the steps. Also, it's a very solid connection once mounted.

Looks: I know this is the most controversial area. Honestly, the gap is certainly there, but it's not as bad in person as it looks in pictures. And with the tube steps, I think this is actually not a bad look. I was honestly more on the fence about the rear flaps, since I thought it would really mess up the rear profile view since the flaps partially obscure the badass SAS tires. It does change the look, but I kind of like it. I think it gives the Bronco a wider, more aggressive stance. Anyway, let me know what you think. Again, I believe both the front and rear look better in person than they do in the pics... somehow it's just like that elusive Cactus Gray color—pictures just don't do it justice.

Functionality: We'll see how it is long term, but I went down the street where there was a short stretch of snow slush left. I put it in 4WD and gunned so I could get all four wheels spinning. Results? I didn't see any spray on the body. It was about to get dark so this was just a quick test, but I'm heading up to Wisconsin to do some snowboarding tomorrow so we'll see how it fares on a longer road test.

So anyway, pics...

Boxed front and rear flaps

Both sets of mudflaps (rear at top, front at bottom)

Pre-installation. You'll want to turn your tire all the way to the right to provide clearance for driver's side installation and the opposite for the passenger side.

Rear wheel, pre-installation. You'll be removing that little plastic trim tab attached to the bumper.

Front flap installed

This is the fender liner location where you'll remove the screws. It may have been easier if the liner wasn't frozen, but it was still pretty easy to remove the screws and put the provide U-clips on.

Rear flap installed. If anything, this was even easier than the front.

Well, that's it. Hope this was useful. Let me know what you think.

I'll check back in once I put them through their paces for a week or so.

I can tell you that all the snow slush and salt all up the side of my doors was beginning to be a major PITA, so if this helps solve that problem, I can definitely say it was $80 well spent.

Im sorry, but these are such a huge nope especially after seeing even better photos (a thank you btw). The rears and fronts are equally terrible. I really hope some better options get released soon.

 

[Roll Sound]

Yes...but for the price, no drilling...its a decent stop gap until a different flap comes along. Maybe Weathertech will keep reading this thread and improve on the design.

I think it's a stop gap. Decent is subjective. I think forum members, including myself, have made better garage solutions, and we don't have access to injection mold machines. I don't care how many free ones they send Cat. Haha.

 

[Sighlense]

I think it's a stop gap. Decent is subjective. I think forum members, including myself, have made better garage solutions, and we don't have access to injection mold machines. I don't care how many free ones they send Cat. Haha.

Show us what you got, without drilling holes into the flares.

 

[Roll Sound]

Show us what you got, without drilling holes into the flares.

I drilled into the flares. Who cares? It's two 1/8" holes. You can fill a hole and replace a flare. They are drilled in a spot where you can’t see them anyway, underside of a SAS flare. Show me what you got!

 

[Sighlense]

I drilled into the flares. Who cares? It's two 1/8" holes. You can fill a hole and replace a flare. They are drilled in a spot where you can’t see them anyway, underside of a SAS flare. Show me what you got!

I do, and that's all that matters to me. I didn't say i had anything, nor do i have an "engineering background".

 

[TripleB]

No it doesn’t look great but functional. My box was missing hardware so I can only do one.

 

[Duke.Roughneck]

Hey all,

Promised pics ahead...

Ordered the Weathertech front and rear mudflaps Thursday evening and received them today (Saturday). I only live about 45 minutes from their Bolingbrook HQ so it was a pretty quick turnaround.

TL;DR: These look better in person than I expected.

Installation: This was pretty easy for both front and rear. The biggest challenge was that it's a pretty tight space in both locations, but as long as you have the right tools it's a piece of cake.

Speaking of tools, the instructions were straightforward and easy to follow, although they tell you you need a socket wrench (for front and rear) and a Phillips head screwdriver for the front, but they don't tell you what sizes of sockets. I'm here for you though, fam: you'll need an 8 mm for the front hex screws and a 10 mm for the rear hex screws. You'll also need a 15 mm for the two rear bolts. Oh, and you'll definitely need an extension for the rear two bolts (I used a 3/8").

In all, installation took about 45 minutes total for both sets. Once I got one side on, the other side went quicker because it was just the same thing in reverse. I found the passenger's side easier because I'm right-handed, so it made it easier with the tools. Oh, and it was 20 degrees out and I was wearing gloves, which may have slowed me down a bit.

It was nice to have a no-drill installation. You will end up replacing some of the original parts, so I recommend you save those if you think you might want to remove these later. Specifically, you'll replace four original fender liner screws on each side in the front, and you'll also remove three hex screws and the little plastic trim piece by the fender in the rear. These are now safely in a ziplock bag in my garage if I ever need them.

Fitment: No complaints here. They are well-engineered (as far as fit is concerned) and there were no issues at all fitting them on the Bronco. Also, you can tell that these things were really made with the tube steps in mind. The indent fits well around the end of the steps. Also, it's a very solid connection once mounted.

Looks: I know this is the most controversial area. Honestly, the gap is certainly there, but it's not as bad in person as it looks in pictures. And with the tube steps, I think this is actually not a bad look. I was honestly more on the fence about the rear flaps, since I thought it would really mess up the rear profile view since the flaps partially obscure the badass SAS tires. It does change the look, but I kind of like it. I think it gives the Bronco a wider, more aggressive stance. Anyway, let me know what you think. Again, I believe both the front and rear look better in person than they do in the pics... somehow it's just like that elusive Cactus Gray color—pictures just don't do it justice.

Functionality: We'll see how it is long term, but I went down the street where there was a short stretch of snow slush left. I put it in 4WD and gunned so I could get all four wheels spinning. Results? I didn't see any spray on the body. It was about to get dark so this was just a quick test, but I'm heading up to Wisconsin to do some snowboarding tomorrow so we'll see how it fares on a longer road test.

So anyway, pics...

Boxed front and rear flaps

Both sets of mudflaps (rear at top, front at bottom)

Pre-installation. You'll want to turn your tire all the way to the right to provide clearance for driver's side installation and the opposite for the passenger side.

Rear wheel, pre-installation. You'll be removing that little plastic trim tab attached to the bumper.

Front flap installed

This is the fender liner location where you'll remove the screws. It may have been easier if the liner wasn't frozen, but it was still pretty easy to remove the screws and put the provide U-clips on.

Rear flap installed. If anything, this was even easier than the front.

Well, that's it. Hope this was useful. Let me know what you think.

I'll check back in once I put them through their paces for a week or so.

I can tell you that all the snow slush and salt all up the side of my doors was beginning to be a major PITA, so if this helps solve that problem, I can definitely say it was $80 well spent.

To say I’m mechanically challenged is an understatement. I am having a hell of a time removing the screws. They just spin in place for me. Is there some trick to get these to advance out? I’m close to getting needle nose pliers and going medieval on these things…

 

[Roll Sound]

I do, and that's all that matters to me. I didn't say i had anything, nor do i have an "engineering background".

Copy that. So enjoy the Weather Tech ones then. Can't wait for you to post your pics.

 

[Sighlense]

Copy that. So enjoy the Weather Tech ones then. Can't wait for you to post your pics.

If i ever get a Bronco.

 

[patch1103]

To say I’m mechanically challenged is an understatement. I am having a hell of a time removing the screws. They just spin in place for me. Is there some trick to get these to advance out? I’m close to getting needle nose pliers and going medieval on these things…

Yes, actually I meant to mention that. When they say “light pressure” in the instructions, they really mean it. If you press in while turning, it will just spin in place. The trick I found is to try to put your finger on the base, by the screw, so it can’t spin. Then use as light of a pressure as you can to back the screw out. Once you back it out a few threads, it’s easy to bring it out the rest of way by hand.

Good luck!

 

[pfbz]

Yes, actually I meant to mention that. When they say “light pressure” in the instructions, they really mean it. If you press in while turning, it will just spin in place. The trick I found is to try to put your finger on the base, by the screw, so it can’t spin. Then use as light of a pressure as you can to back the screw out. Once you back it out a few threads, it’s easy to bring it out the rest of way by hand.

So light pressure, that I found the easiest way was just to use a phillips screwdriver bit (like you would use in your electric drill) and just turn the bit itself with my fingertips! ANY pressure at all on mine would have them just spin instead of getting them to back out.

 

[patch1103]

Im sorry, but these are such a huge nope especially after seeing even better photos (a thank you btw). The rears and fronts are equally terrible. I really hope some better options get released soon.

Understandable. I can tell you that they’re functional at least. I went charging through a huge, muddy parking lot today—without the flaps it would’ve resulted in mud all over my doors and windows. With the flaps… not a speck. So they’re definitely engineered to work, even if they’re not to everyone’s taste.

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