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I thought I would post the details of my sleeping deck build as I'm sure others will be interested in doing something similar, and I would like to try and contribute to the 6G community and express my gratitude for what has been such a great resource for me.
I used 3M spray adhesive (similar to contact cement) from Lowes to cover 3/4" plywood with marine grade carpet from Amazon (link below) and used staples on the underside of the plywood to hold in place securely. I’m very happy with how it turned out and have been told by several people it looks like it came from the factory with the deck. The carpet is a perfect match for the factory black carpet, both in color and texture. Two rolls of the 72" x 36" carpet is adequate for the job, and one can of the spray adhesive is plenty. One 4’ x 8’ sheet of 3/4” plywood is utilized.
Not that 3/4” plywood is that heavy in the quantity used for this project, but I did consider using some composite material for the deck to save weight and allow for slightly more storage space but the cost would have been prohibitive. I’d be interested in seeing this build with a fiberglass composite material similar to what is used in the stock rear flooring. If you lift up the cover for the jack storage in the back you’ll see what I mean. It’s a very strong yet light material and had me contemplating using a material other than standard 3/4” ply. If anyone has any ideas about other alternate materials that would work I’d love to hear ideas. After installing the Warn winch and bumper I’m looking at ways to trim some weight! Every little bit counts and it all adds up. And I just ordered one of the Badass roof racks so more weight is coming…
The platform is removable but fits nice and snug so it doesn’t move at all when I’m driving off road, yet I can lift it up and pull it out. I cut the edge that is nearest to the rear hatch in such a way that the hatch contacts the carpet, yet there’s no resistance to closing. I used a large piece of cardboard to create a template that I then traced onto a piece of plywood. I made the first cuts so it was slightly larger than necessary so I wouldn’t overdo it, and trimmed a bit at a time until it was perfect. To keep from scratching the trim plastic in the rear storage area I used that clear plastic film they use to protect carpets during construction. It’s sticky on one side and I just lined the storage area with that so I wasn’t scratching things up when I was taking the plywood in and out and making multiple cuts to get the fit nice and snug.
With the rear seat folded down the forward most part of the seat sits about 2 3/8" higher than the back of the folded down seat when it’s in its horizontal position. The rear seat doesn’t fold down perfectly flat, so I used a level to establish how high the deck needed to be so the two sections were level and flat when the forward edge of the front deck rests on the folded seat. Since the forward most edge of the folded seat is higher than the rear most edge, this requires the rear deck to be higher where it makes contact with the back seat when it’s in its folded up position.
I used three hardwood blocks to bridge the front and rear deck sections together and provide support where the two come together. Each block has two holes drilled, with corresponding holes in the rear and front deck where I slide bolts down in from the top to hold the two sections in place. I will probably create pins of some sort that are smooth and slide in and out more easily than the threaded bolts, which tend to not want to come out of the holes due to the resistance the threads create. I made a countersink in the plywood for the heads on the bolts so they sit flush with the deck and don’t puncture my air mattress. I have some carbon fiber rod that would work instead of the bolts and I'm always looking for an excuse to use carbon fiber! I also considered aluminum arrow shafts for the pins. Wooden dowels would also work. The only important part is that the pin fits snugly in the hole and the material is strong enough they won't break. I'm sure others have ideas that would work as well.
I spent a lot of time figuring things out and developing a plan, and I’m very happy with how it came out. I have slept on it overnight twice now and it works perfectly. Hopefully it inspires others to build their own and make something even better. Would love to hear ideas about possible improvements or mods to this build. The way I've done it is certainly not the only way it could be done. I'm happy to answer questions anyone has. I can't always get on the forum daily but I will respond to questions when I have the opportunity.
Thanks to the other members who encouraged me to create a thread about this build.
Materials-
3/4" plywood- a 4" x 8" sheet is adequate for this project.
3/4" x 6" pine- I happened to have some pieces of pine that worked. I just ripped them to the proper width of 5 5/8". 2" x 6" would also work, I just liked having a bit more storage space available with the 3/4" thick pine.
CPR Marine Upholstery Durable Un-Backed Automotive Trim Carpet 72" x 36" Mini Roll (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SG24K...abc_MHK973CQXYSCWJRYTCCJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
3M spray adhesive
https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Super-77-Multipurpose-Spray-Adhesive/3033222
The photo with the deck tilted is to show how its removed. The fit is snug enough that it has to be tilted up to slide it out and this is only possible with the gate open. With the rear gate closed and back seat up the decks don’t move at all so there’s no safety risk of them coming loose in an accident and becoming a projectile in the cabin.
The wood blocks are 5" long by 3 1/4" wide by 2 3/8"thick. The forward edge of the rear deck is 2 3/8" above the "flap" section of the back of the rear seat when folded down. If I were to build this again I would prob go with a slightly higher rear deck and blocks cut accordingly. The deck isn't exactly parallel with the vehicle and is probably off by a degree or two. Its not really noticeable when you are laying down but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and it something I noticed when the build was done. Going 1/8"or possibly even 1/2" higher with the rear deck would likely get things perfectly parallel. If someone tries a different deck height that works out, let me know. Getting on exactly perfectly level ground can be a challenge itself so I wasn't to worried about it being exactly parallel. It was more critical to have the front and rear decks in line and level to each other.
The wood blocks happen to fit in the little cubby on the passenger side in the back (see photo). I'm in the process of carpeting the inside of the cubby to prevent the blocks from rattling around and scratching the plastic.
Both decks are 36" long for a combined 72" total deck length. One could make the front deck longer but it wouldn't be possible to store it stacked on top of the rear deck and have the back seat folded up in a usable position, but its certainly an option for taller folks that are willing to store the front deck outside the vehicle and are ok not having a back seat on trips where they want to use a longer sleeping deck. I am 5 10" and I sleep comfortably with this setup. I arrange the front seats so there is a small gap of about three or four inches between the back of the seat and the front edge of the deck (narrow enough my pillow doesn't fall forward off the deck), and once my pillow is in place I don't notice that the deck is the same length as my height.
Front deck- approx 42 1/2" wide at the front and rear edge but is wider in the center by about half an inch to follow the contour of the plastic trim. I should have taken measurements before I carpeted but unfortunately I didn't. I would take your own measurements anyway and make a template like I did. These measurements will get you in the ballpark.
Rear deck is 42 1/2" wide.
The center console cutout is 8" wide by 4" deep.
The vertical supports under the rear deck are 5 5/8"tall. Again, could be slightly taller as outlined above.
The front deck is stored flipped around because I didn't want the exposed edge of the plywood visible (I left the edge fo the two decks where they come together uncarpeted so they fit together more snugly but I'm not sure this is necessary.) Just has to be pulled out the back and flipped around and slid forward into place for setup as a sleeping deck. If I were to build this again I would probably carpet the two meeting edges so the rear deck could just be easily slid forward into sleeping deck position without having to flip it around.
The aluminum pieces visible under the passenger side of the rear deck are mounts for amplifiers I'm installing as part of my stereo, and are not a necessary component of the sleeping deck.
You may notice the seam in the carpet on the rear deck down the middle. I build the rear deck so I could better access the area under the deck on the passenger side by leaving a section attached with hinges that could be folded up. This is primarily to allow access to the stereo amplifiers I will have installed under the deck on that side. Obviously not necessary but it could be incorporated into a build if desired.
Pulling out the front deck to flip around so center console cutout is facing foward.
Photo showing how the rear deck can be removed.
View from forward edge of rear deck where it meets the front deck (front deck removed.)
Vertical supports for rear deck (upside down in image.)
Note: Diagrams are not to scale
If anyone is looking for an extremely comfortable air mattress (relative to other air mattresses) that fits perfectly, the medium size exped megamat duo 10 in the medium double size is what you should look at. I don’t normally sleep well on air mattresses and the exped mats are on another level comfort wise. They even make a megamat max that is supposed to be even more comfortable. I didn’t want to take up too much space in the back with the mat when traveling so I went with the standard megamat (green in color.)
Here’s a link to it:
https://www.rei.com/product/113720/exped-megamat-duo-10-sleeping-pad
I then went with a Big Agnes Camp Robber, which is like a double sleeping bag that zips on to a bottom sheet. The bottom sheet has elastic around the edge and fits on the exped just like a normal sheet does on your bed at home. At first I thought the Camp Robber was a bit too small for the exped, but once you lay down on it everything settles in and the fit is good. It’s the double wide 40" x 72" size.
Here’s a link to the Camp Robber bedroll-
https://www.bigagnes.com/Camp-Robber-Bedroll_19
For pillows I went with the Klymit Drift pillow. These have a very smart design where the cover that protects the pillow from dirt during transport turns inside out to reveal a soft inner cover, which is washable. They are filled with shredded memory foam and are very comfortable. Perfect size for car camping as well- not too big and not too small.
Here’s the pillow-
https://klymit.com/products/drift-camp-pillow
Underside of EXPED mat with Camp Robber in place.
KLYMIT pillows
I used 3M spray adhesive (similar to contact cement) from Lowes to cover 3/4" plywood with marine grade carpet from Amazon (link below) and used staples on the underside of the plywood to hold in place securely. I’m very happy with how it turned out and have been told by several people it looks like it came from the factory with the deck. The carpet is a perfect match for the factory black carpet, both in color and texture. Two rolls of the 72" x 36" carpet is adequate for the job, and one can of the spray adhesive is plenty. One 4’ x 8’ sheet of 3/4” plywood is utilized.
Not that 3/4” plywood is that heavy in the quantity used for this project, but I did consider using some composite material for the deck to save weight and allow for slightly more storage space but the cost would have been prohibitive. I’d be interested in seeing this build with a fiberglass composite material similar to what is used in the stock rear flooring. If you lift up the cover for the jack storage in the back you’ll see what I mean. It’s a very strong yet light material and had me contemplating using a material other than standard 3/4” ply. If anyone has any ideas about other alternate materials that would work I’d love to hear ideas. After installing the Warn winch and bumper I’m looking at ways to trim some weight! Every little bit counts and it all adds up. And I just ordered one of the Badass roof racks so more weight is coming…
The platform is removable but fits nice and snug so it doesn’t move at all when I’m driving off road, yet I can lift it up and pull it out. I cut the edge that is nearest to the rear hatch in such a way that the hatch contacts the carpet, yet there’s no resistance to closing. I used a large piece of cardboard to create a template that I then traced onto a piece of plywood. I made the first cuts so it was slightly larger than necessary so I wouldn’t overdo it, and trimmed a bit at a time until it was perfect. To keep from scratching the trim plastic in the rear storage area I used that clear plastic film they use to protect carpets during construction. It’s sticky on one side and I just lined the storage area with that so I wasn’t scratching things up when I was taking the plywood in and out and making multiple cuts to get the fit nice and snug.
With the rear seat folded down the forward most part of the seat sits about 2 3/8" higher than the back of the folded down seat when it’s in its horizontal position. The rear seat doesn’t fold down perfectly flat, so I used a level to establish how high the deck needed to be so the two sections were level and flat when the forward edge of the front deck rests on the folded seat. Since the forward most edge of the folded seat is higher than the rear most edge, this requires the rear deck to be higher where it makes contact with the back seat when it’s in its folded up position.
I used three hardwood blocks to bridge the front and rear deck sections together and provide support where the two come together. Each block has two holes drilled, with corresponding holes in the rear and front deck where I slide bolts down in from the top to hold the two sections in place. I will probably create pins of some sort that are smooth and slide in and out more easily than the threaded bolts, which tend to not want to come out of the holes due to the resistance the threads create. I made a countersink in the plywood for the heads on the bolts so they sit flush with the deck and don’t puncture my air mattress. I have some carbon fiber rod that would work instead of the bolts and I'm always looking for an excuse to use carbon fiber! I also considered aluminum arrow shafts for the pins. Wooden dowels would also work. The only important part is that the pin fits snugly in the hole and the material is strong enough they won't break. I'm sure others have ideas that would work as well.
I spent a lot of time figuring things out and developing a plan, and I’m very happy with how it came out. I have slept on it overnight twice now and it works perfectly. Hopefully it inspires others to build their own and make something even better. Would love to hear ideas about possible improvements or mods to this build. The way I've done it is certainly not the only way it could be done. I'm happy to answer questions anyone has. I can't always get on the forum daily but I will respond to questions when I have the opportunity.
Thanks to the other members who encouraged me to create a thread about this build.
Materials-
3/4" plywood- a 4" x 8" sheet is adequate for this project.
3/4" x 6" pine- I happened to have some pieces of pine that worked. I just ripped them to the proper width of 5 5/8". 2" x 6" would also work, I just liked having a bit more storage space available with the 3/4" thick pine.
CPR Marine Upholstery Durable Un-Backed Automotive Trim Carpet 72" x 36" Mini Roll (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SG24K...abc_MHK973CQXYSCWJRYTCCJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
3M spray adhesive
https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Super-77-Multipurpose-Spray-Adhesive/3033222
The photo with the deck tilted is to show how its removed. The fit is snug enough that it has to be tilted up to slide it out and this is only possible with the gate open. With the rear gate closed and back seat up the decks don’t move at all so there’s no safety risk of them coming loose in an accident and becoming a projectile in the cabin.
The wood blocks are 5" long by 3 1/4" wide by 2 3/8"thick. The forward edge of the rear deck is 2 3/8" above the "flap" section of the back of the rear seat when folded down. If I were to build this again I would prob go with a slightly higher rear deck and blocks cut accordingly. The deck isn't exactly parallel with the vehicle and is probably off by a degree or two. Its not really noticeable when you are laying down but I'm a bit of a perfectionist and it something I noticed when the build was done. Going 1/8"or possibly even 1/2" higher with the rear deck would likely get things perfectly parallel. If someone tries a different deck height that works out, let me know. Getting on exactly perfectly level ground can be a challenge itself so I wasn't to worried about it being exactly parallel. It was more critical to have the front and rear decks in line and level to each other.
The wood blocks happen to fit in the little cubby on the passenger side in the back (see photo). I'm in the process of carpeting the inside of the cubby to prevent the blocks from rattling around and scratching the plastic.
Both decks are 36" long for a combined 72" total deck length. One could make the front deck longer but it wouldn't be possible to store it stacked on top of the rear deck and have the back seat folded up in a usable position, but its certainly an option for taller folks that are willing to store the front deck outside the vehicle and are ok not having a back seat on trips where they want to use a longer sleeping deck. I am 5 10" and I sleep comfortably with this setup. I arrange the front seats so there is a small gap of about three or four inches between the back of the seat and the front edge of the deck (narrow enough my pillow doesn't fall forward off the deck), and once my pillow is in place I don't notice that the deck is the same length as my height.
Front deck- approx 42 1/2" wide at the front and rear edge but is wider in the center by about half an inch to follow the contour of the plastic trim. I should have taken measurements before I carpeted but unfortunately I didn't. I would take your own measurements anyway and make a template like I did. These measurements will get you in the ballpark.
Rear deck is 42 1/2" wide.
The center console cutout is 8" wide by 4" deep.
The vertical supports under the rear deck are 5 5/8"tall. Again, could be slightly taller as outlined above.
The front deck is stored flipped around because I didn't want the exposed edge of the plywood visible (I left the edge fo the two decks where they come together uncarpeted so they fit together more snugly but I'm not sure this is necessary.) Just has to be pulled out the back and flipped around and slid forward into place for setup as a sleeping deck. If I were to build this again I would probably carpet the two meeting edges so the rear deck could just be easily slid forward into sleeping deck position without having to flip it around.
The aluminum pieces visible under the passenger side of the rear deck are mounts for amplifiers I'm installing as part of my stereo, and are not a necessary component of the sleeping deck.
You may notice the seam in the carpet on the rear deck down the middle. I build the rear deck so I could better access the area under the deck on the passenger side by leaving a section attached with hinges that could be folded up. This is primarily to allow access to the stereo amplifiers I will have installed under the deck on that side. Obviously not necessary but it could be incorporated into a build if desired.
Pulling out the front deck to flip around so center console cutout is facing foward.
Photo showing how the rear deck can be removed.
View from forward edge of rear deck where it meets the front deck (front deck removed.)
Vertical supports for rear deck (upside down in image.)
Note: Diagrams are not to scale
If anyone is looking for an extremely comfortable air mattress (relative to other air mattresses) that fits perfectly, the medium size exped megamat duo 10 in the medium double size is what you should look at. I don’t normally sleep well on air mattresses and the exped mats are on another level comfort wise. They even make a megamat max that is supposed to be even more comfortable. I didn’t want to take up too much space in the back with the mat when traveling so I went with the standard megamat (green in color.)
Here’s a link to it:
https://www.rei.com/product/113720/exped-megamat-duo-10-sleeping-pad
I then went with a Big Agnes Camp Robber, which is like a double sleeping bag that zips on to a bottom sheet. The bottom sheet has elastic around the edge and fits on the exped just like a normal sheet does on your bed at home. At first I thought the Camp Robber was a bit too small for the exped, but once you lay down on it everything settles in and the fit is good. It’s the double wide 40" x 72" size.
Here’s a link to the Camp Robber bedroll-
https://www.bigagnes.com/Camp-Robber-Bedroll_19
For pillows I went with the Klymit Drift pillow. These have a very smart design where the cover that protects the pillow from dirt during transport turns inside out to reveal a soft inner cover, which is washable. They are filled with shredded memory foam and are very comfortable. Perfect size for car camping as well- not too big and not too small.
Here’s the pillow-
https://klymit.com/products/drift-camp-pillow
Underside of EXPED mat with Camp Robber in place.
KLYMIT pillows
Sponsored
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