B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[Roll Sound]

Yes.

dumb question here but just so im clear, there's only 3 in the dash so youre buying 2 pairs having an extra speaker left over?

Yes. In fact I see we are neighbors. I have two of these available if you are interested. Plus the connectors. Brand new. These are the 6 3/4" kick panel ones.

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[JL724]

Thanks, I am pulling from the hood back toward the dash and it isn't coming out. Do you disconnect the USB plug in front first?

it has a small lip tucked under the dash and it takes a fair amount of force.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Thanks, I am pulling from the hood back toward the dash and it isn't coming out. Do you disconnect the USB plug in front first?

It’s definitely a little tricky. It sounds like you need to pop one more clip out towards the back, around the USB outlet. Wish I had a pic for ya!

 

[Ksjrb03]

Very cool and helpful. I appreciate the writeup. I'm going with all Alpine or Audison. Haven't decided yet. By chance, does anyone know or has anyone seen what the crossover frequencies are for the different speakers for the B&O system?

No, but I played with a frequency sweep sound clip when I had everything torn apart. Unplugged most speakers and swept through others to see what they played. Wish I wrote the results down! Mainly used it to verify the kick panels cut out the highs like I suspected after that speaker swap. Would be cool if someone recorded results when they dig in, but I’m done popping panels !

I used a couple different sweeps like this one.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Stupid question but is there three of the 4” speakers in the dash on the non B&O system? I don’t have my bronco yet but am buying audio replacements

Base has four total 4”. Two in dash and two in rear pods. Purchase two sets! B&O takes three sets with an extra speaker left over.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Great right up. I recently finished my upgrade and it's way better overall. It's ashame Ford didn't spend a few bucks on better drivers but it's good business for the aftermarket!

My biggest takeway was upgrading the kicks had the least impact and subjective if they are even worth swapping. Sealing up the enclosure with kilamat had more impact than swapping the driver(I tried Rockford Fosgate and JL 6.5s, currently factory driver is back in).

That’s the one speaker set I admit to not experimenting with enough. I tested the lack of highs existed with the stock speakers as well, then just tossed them in the trash. Wish I would of payed little more attention to them, but was focused on dash and pod speakers as they definitely had the biggest impact. (Tested several different brands/models and combinations)

 

[cmcbronco]

That’s the one speaker set I admit to not experimenting with enough. I tested the lack of highs existed with the stock speakers as well, then just tossed them in the trash. Wish I would of payed little more attention to them, but was focused on dash and pod speakers as they definitely had the biggest impact. (Tested several different brands/models and combinations)

I didn’t touch the kick panels until I added the key 200.4. In my opinion upgrading them with the stock head unit would be a waste and actually the stock ones sound pretty good for what they are.
After amplifying I went with just a woofer down there. No need for highs at your feet. Memphis mjp6 is what I used and sounds great when amplified.

 

[JL724]

Got it. A little harder than I would like to pull but it came off. Now just waiting for the speakers to replace the center and rear pods to get here.

Also, I had to cut the zip tie on the driver side dash speaker (sits below the speaker) to get the new speaker to seat properly. I saw this in one of the install videos but haven't seen many other people mention it.

Thinking if I add a sub in a new enclosure in the trunk, replacing the kick panel speakers will be a waste to replace since those seem to be the least impactful speaker to change out.

It’s definitely a little tricky. It sounds like you need to pop one more clip out towards the back, around the USB outlet. Wish I had a pic for ya!

 

[Ksjrb03]

I didn’t touch the kick panels until I added the key 200.4. In my opinion upgrading them with the stock head unit would be a waste and actually the stock ones sound pretty good for what they are.
After amplifying I went with just a woofer down there. No need for highs at your feet. Memphis mjp6 is what I used and sounds great when amplified.

The B&O runs the kick panels through the factory amp, and they are a different model speaker in the B&O vs base system. I helped a buddy do a speaker swap in his base system and we did put the stock plastic speaker back until he adds the 200.1 amp.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Got it. A little harder than I would like to pull but it came off. Now just waiting for the speakers to replace the center and rear pods to get here.

Also, I had to cut the zip tie on the driver side dash speaker (sits below the speaker) to get the new speaker to seat properly. I saw this in one of the install videos but haven't seen many other people mention it.

Thinking if I add a sub replacing, the kick panel speakers will be a waste to replace since those seem to be the least impactful speaker to change out.

I don’t remember having to cut a zip tie there mine didn’t have one. Good catch

 

[newclubfront]

I didn’t touch the kick panels until I added the key 200.4.

I replaced all 6 speakers in my bronco and was disappointed at the lack or results. Everything certainly got clearer but not up to even medium standards. It got slightly better when I put in bass blockers on the front tweeters.

I don't know how to use these kicker key amps that everybody is referencing because I'm so new to audio. If I want to add a sub in my trunk AND fix the other 6 speakers with an amp, do I need both the kicker key 200.1 and the 500.1? I don't understand how 2 amps would plug into the factory head unit and which wiring harnesses I would need from plugandplaykits. Lastly, my local car audio guy said I would need a Lc2i. What is that and how does that work with the aforementioned 200.1 and 500.1? How do they plug into each other?

Edit I do not have the B&O system so I don't think I have any of the wiring for a sub yet.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Thank you for taking the time to so thoroughly document your effort and share it with everyone. If half the doc we got from companies was half as good as yours the world would be a much better place - and we PAY those folks for their products! Very impressive. Sad commentary on the Bronco's "premium" sound system option that it requires over $1K in parts and goodness knows how many hours in labor to get it right.

 

[cmcbronco]

I replaced all 6 speakers in my bronco and was disappointed at the lack or results. Everything certainly got clearer but not up to even medium standards. It got slightly better when I put in bass blockers on the front tweeters.

I don't know how to use these kicker key amps that everybody is referencing because I'm so new to audio. If I want to add a sub in my trunk AND fix the other 6 speakers with an amp, do I need both the kicker key 200.1 and the 500.1? I don't understand how 2 amps would plug into the factory head unit and which wiring harnesses I would need from plugandplaykits. Lastly, my local car audio guy said I would need a Lc2i. What is that and how does that work with the aforementioned 200.1 and 500.1? How do they plug into each other?

Edit I do not have the B&O system so I don't think I have any of the wiring for a sub yet.

Your best bet is to reach out to plug n play and tell him what you want to do. He will point you in the direction of what kit you’ll need. But yes you will need both amplifiers if you want to add a sub unless you are going with a powered sub.
I have both for my set up and it sounds awesome. The kicker key 200.4 powers your 4” and 6.5” speakers and with the plug n play harness it’s as simple as the name….plug n play. No cutting or splicing needed and it uses all of your factory wiring so you don’t have to run new wires.

now the subwoofer is a different story. You will have to run a separate power and ground to the 500.1. Your high level speaker inputs will be on your plug n play harness if you order the correct kit.

I know it’s a lot so I hope that helps lol.

 

[JCAntimatter]

I started my overhaul of the B&O system a couple months ago, and finished buttoning it up this weekend. It’s been a long journey of trial and error, and parts returned or wasted, but I’m thrilled with the final results. I have contributed to many threads along the way, but wanted to consolidate it all into a completed build thread as I get many questions about what I’ve done.

I’ll start out with why I got started on this project. To put it bluntly, I think the B&O system is pretty bad for a “premium“ system. It’s pretty much lacking in every way, low power, muddy highs, boomy rattly bass, and really bad soundstage with most all of the sound coming from the windshield. The speakers are cheap, paper, and half of them are the same speakers used in the base system.

I would rate the system 4/10 stock, and 15/10 after upgrades. This rating is based solely on my expectations/experiences of a factory “premium” system with cost as a factor. From the factory it severely missed expectations, after upgrades it blows away my expectations, as it should. The sub kicks. I haven't had a system that can rattle the mirrors since high school. I won’t be rattling mirrors, but I could if I want

I will list the parts ”I” used. Wiring diagrams and shop manuals for removal/install are attached.

Parts

JL C1 4” - $99 pair x2
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699040/JL-Audio-C1-400x.html

JL C1 6.5” - $149 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699042/JL-Audio-C1-650x.html

Focal ACX 4” - $109 pair
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX100/Focal-ACX-100.html

Kicker Comp R 8” 4ohm DVC sub - $89
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFHJZNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker Key 500.1 amp - $270
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLH77B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kicker wired remote bass control - $39
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D3TVFBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

right angle extension wire for bass control knob - $11
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793KZYXD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

25’ 8guage copper amp wire - $25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RZF94M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 gauge amp fuse/battery connector - $9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZZZK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

8 gauge ring terminal for ground - $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747M3SYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4“ speaker wire harness adapter - x3 - $12.99 each pair
search Amazon

Kilmat sound deadening sheets - $35
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082Q2J2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Total - $979.97

Dash Speakers

There are three 4” speakers in the dash. I used JL C1 for all three. I originally tried Focal ACX, but found them very “bright”. I ended up using the Focals in the rear pods and the JLs in the dash. This combination works great, as the bright Focal pods allow more rear fill, that was canceled out having Focals in the dash as well. This combination makes huge improvements to the overall soundstage, actually having some rear fill is an amazing improvement. Don’t skip the center channel! It’s is the workhorse up front, especially if you use surround mode.

Replacing these speakers is pretty straightforward, remove trim panel, unbolt speaker, attach harness adapter, reinstall. Shop manual attached if you need it. I highly suggest a nice set of panel removal tools so you don’t scratch up the plastic. I tossed some kilmat underneath each speaker, trying to make the hollow space underneath more of a pocket.

The center channel is a little tricky, you need to remove a screw on each side of the “accessory ready” bolt, remove that, then you can remove the speaker cover panel.

Kick Panel

I used JL C1s here as well. Honestly a 2 way speaker is not needed here in the kick panels. The DSP/amp filters out highs, this is a place you could cheap out a bit If you want. The C1s came with a trim ring mounting adapter that worked great. Crutchfield also sent a Metra adapter that I did not use, and also sent a wiring harness adapter that I did use, both free. I used Kilmat behind these speakers as well. Removing the panels is easy enough, but it’s kind of an awkward spot to work in. There is a foam section below the speaker housing you will need to make a slit in and feed the wiring through. Button everything up with zip ties. Shop manual attached.

Rear Pod Speakers

As mentioned before I used Focal ACX back here. They work great to provide some much needed rear fill. These are the easiest speakers to replace. Pop the cover off by squeezing both sides and it will pop right off. Unscrew speaker, install wiring harness, reinstall. I filled the entire cavity with kilmat again. Shop manual attached.

Sub/Amp

This is where things got interesting. I first tried to just swap the sub speaker, and long story short that was a huge fail. I tried two different subs. A $300 Rockford P3 that popped and clicked, underpowered to say the least. A $19 Pyle sub worked, but wasn’t much if any improvement over the stock sub. I took a pause here as life got busy. Then got re-interested by @cmcbronco and his great thread on installing the B&O sub enclosure on a base system. Lots of great info here.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/

I ended up going with a Kicker Comp R 4 ohm DVC sub and Kicker key 500.1 amp. I wired the sub parallel to get 2 ohm at the amp. The beauty of this amp is you can use the speaker wires going to the factory sub as high level inputs. This will also work for the power on, so no need to find a trigger on circuit. I called Kicker and confirmed the sub wires coming from the factory amp will work for high level inputs, no line output converter needed. They said this is exactly what this amp was designed for.

The Comp R sub fits the factory enclosure great, but you need to pry the plastic trim ring off with a screwdriver. No modification needed to the enclosure with this sub. Shout out to @SCTWNB for the great mounting location for the amp, I wouldn’t of thought of this location myself. It’s mounted to the roll bar, snugged in there next to sub enclosure. It is a bit tricky, but take your time, mark your holes, drill some pilot holes. Use double sided mounting tape to hold it up for install and cushion it from the body. If you plan to use this location pay close attention to where i have it, any higher and the PATS antenna mounted on the quarter panel will interfere. A right angle adapter is needed for the remote volume wire, which I installed under the HVAC controls. Wire runs down the passenger side wire channel, up kick panel, behind glovebox.

I ran 8 gauge power wire across the cargo area behind rear seats, down floor wiring panels under door, up front kick panels, and through grommet in the firewall. Fused at battery, and connected to one of the spare spots Ford gave us. Need an M5 or M6 nut here, depending which you use. Ground is wired To the factory ground found right above sub. I cut the factory sub wires that are sealed in the grommet in sub enclosure, and connected them to the high level inputs on the amp. Cut off the RCA ends, and connected them with butt connectors, make sure you get polarity correct! Wiring drawing below. I drilled holes in the same grommet to run 14g speaker wire to the sub. Apologies for the lack of installation pics on most of this, I will grab some and update later if needed.

I ended up stuffing the enclosure with PolyFil. This really helped, the bass is less boomy, hits harder and tighter if that makes sense. I had to re-adjust my preferred settings afterwards, it makes a difference. Someone that doesn’t want to bother with a sub/amp should try adding polyfil to the oem sub. I bet it helps alot.

Rattle Battle

Anyone with the B&O system knows the sub is a rattle machine at higher volumes. I had the rear panels off no less than 5 times prior to upgrade finding and fixing rattles. I had my doubts if it could ever be rattle free with an aftermarket sub and amp. I am declaring 98% victory on rattles. For my everyday listening music and volumes it’s 100% victory.

I did so much fighting rattles it’s impossible to remember and list it all. My method was simple, play certain 90s gangsta rap songs with repeated bass frequencies on loop that generate rattle everytime. Loud. When neighbors were out that turned to bass frequency sweeps and loops I found online. Play loud and go around using your ears to pinpoint and your hands to feel and absorb. What I ended up with is Kilmat in the entire cargo area, 3 rolls of cloth tape wrapping wires, connectors, insulating behind pins, wiring under rear seats, etc. Used Kilmat to insulate behind most things touching the body. Suspect panel clips were replaced (and several broken). Be diligent in your battle and you can win!

Panel clips and part #s

Wiring drawing

Shop Manuals for removing trim

THANK YOU!

 

[Ksjrb03]

Thank you for taking the time to so thoroughly document your effort and share it with everyone. If half the doc we got from companies was half as good as yours the world would be a much better place - and we PAY those folks for their products! Very impressive. Sad commentary on the Bronco's "premium" sound system option that it requires over $1K in parts and goodness knows how many hours in labor to get it right.

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

I admittedly like to tinker and have projects to work on, so this was more fun than work for me. My Bronco tends to be parked torn apart sitting in the driveway more than driven lately! I fully understand most people might not feel the same so hopefully the guide and manuals help someone get er done quicker!

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