Using a very new and super small footprint 128GB Samsung USB and no issues. One thing that has happened occasionally when playing a song and more often when clicking into reverse is a "brappp" of digital distortion of some sort. Anyone else experiencing this?
Yes. Not while playing a song, only when shifting into reverse. And only once. For example, if parallel parking, shift into reverse and get the distortion. But shift back to drive and then back to reverse (like to straighten up), no distortion during the second shift to reverse.
@silentd74
I disconnected it in my 22 and in my wife's 23. Although the 23 had less rattle because of the revised panel clips, it still got tinny depending on what we listen too. In mine I keep the bass at the middle anyway or one notch below, sometimes 2. I have the gain on the KEY500 a little higher in hers since it's a soft top.
I think the thread has run the gamut based on personal preferences and budgets. From JL to Kicker to Infinity to Morel to Focal and Memphis to just about every combination between them. Best bet is find someone local who has done it and have a listen - alternatively checkout the sound comparison tool on Crutchfield it does give a decent picture of the various sounds to expect. Keep in mind - don't expect any miracles from the 4" speakers even without bass blockers - they will be bright regardless of which brand you choose. The kick panels can help balance that and then obviously the sub and where you set your high pass crossover - some guys set at 60 or 80hz, I set mine at 100hz and I'm happy - not sure I'd want to go any higher than that else it gets muddy sounding. I have Infinity in all 5 4" locations and Memphis in the 6.5 kick panels and 8" kicker for sub.
The volume knob should have immediate obvious affect. I would double check all the plugs and make sure they are fully inserted. I seem to remember the plug on the knob itself taking a bit of force to fully seat.
This ended up being a hellacious install. Probably took me 25hrs because I ended up having to pull out my old wiring for my compressor, and remove my tailgate reinforcement and tailgate table to get the new wiring to my compressor as well as the coaxial through the tailgate for the WeBoost antenna. But everything turned out very well and it is all nicely hidden away maintaining a stock look.
I'm going to have to shift the distributor block slightly left because it's blocking the bottom right tab for the little rectangle piece that you can pop out from the plastic panel. So it won't fit flush. You can also see that I was able to barely fit the WeBoost on top of the Kicker Key amp. So that suggestion worked out great!
The sub sounds fantastic and is an obvious improvement. I honestly would say that if you have been reasonably happy with the B&O, you could probably do just to amp/sub upgrade and be totally fine. I will probably still play with some options for other speakers though when time allows. I ran the gain and wave setup on the amp and adjusted crossover based on feedback from this thread and everything sounded fine to me. A bit of distortion once you cross 19/20 volume level.
The one thing I can't solve is that it doesn't seem that the volume knob for the sub we've all installed actually has any affect. The sub volume doesn't seem to go up or down when adjusting the knob. So I may not have something correct. Any feedback on that would be helpful.
Thanks again to OP!
As an addendum, I ended up ordering a second box of Kilmat and have over half the sheets left. If anyone is interested in buying some additional Kilmat, just shoot me a PM.
Mine is set for bass heavy songs around 11:00 and for those that have a weaker bass line or recording level - up to maybe 2:00. And even within that narrow range it is VERY noticeable. Take a pic of your crossover, gain and and button settings - maybe that will help one of us pinpoint something.Thanks! I'll double check those connections because atm it is neither immediate or obvious.
I just put the panel back on last night before I saw this.
I did check the connection at the amp and at the knob, and both were tight. But I still need to get under the dash and make sure it's not where the extension cable is connected.
Its working. I did not have a chance to listen last night after I checked the connections at the amp and knob. But checked running some errands today and it’s working.I just put the panel back on last night before I saw this.
My Kicker Solobaric 12 (shallow) is 300W RMS per coil, 600W RMS total. The KEY500 is a great match. I do wish I had (2) 12s at times but that's in part because I have (2) Kicker CompR 12s in my Edge ST running on 1000W RMS at 2ohm in a slot ported box. Totally different animal but also a B&O add-on scenario with an AudioControl LC2i Pro for signal.
