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Johnny Mo

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Is that what you're using going from the factory amp to the Kicker Key rather than butt connectors? And then it's just 14-gauge speaker wire from the Kicker Key to the Kicker sub?
Yes and power and ground I have already set up in back from my onboard air. That should connect to the high level speaker outputs and tie into the kicker key harness. Then using 12ga to the sub wired in parallel to get from 4ohm dual coil to 2 ohm
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Yes and power and ground I have already set up in back from my onboard air. That should connect to the high level speaker outputs and tie into the kicker key harness. Then using 12ga to the sub wired in parallel to get from 4ohm dual coil to 2 ohm
Hold the phone... Okay, I'm already running power to the tailgate for my compressor (AGS tailgate reinforcement kit w/compressor mounted under the spare tire mount). My run is some 8-gauge from the battery to ARB harness in the engine bay, that is butt connected to the ARB harness through the firewall, and then connects to the Expedition Essentials harness at the B-pillar, which then runs all the way through the tailgate to plug into the ARB compressor. Are you saying I could just tap into my Expedition Essentials harness at the amp for my amp power instead of running another line for power? Any concerns with that causing interference in the audio signal?

If that works, you just saved me a huge amount of work!
 

Johnny Mo

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Hold the phone... Okay, I'm already running power to the tailgate for my compressor (AGS tailgate reinforcement kit w/compressor mounted under the spare tire mount). My run is some 8-gauge from the battery to ARB harness in the engine bay, that is butt connected to the ARB harness through the firewall, and then connects to the Expedition Essentials harness at the B-pillar, which then runs all the way through the tailgate to plug into the ARB compressor. Are you saying I could just tap into my Expedition Essentials harness at the amp for my amp power instead of running another line for power? Any concerns with that causing interference in the audio signal?

If that works, you just saved me a huge amount of work!
I went with a way overkill 1/0 cable direct to battery and an 8ga for ground. My 1/0 goes to a power distribution block behind the rear cargo panel where the sub is located. you can see from my photo link - the plan was always to leave some flexibility to add the amp...will it cause interference? - maybe but we'll see - if it does then I'll probably go back to drawing board and run 2 separate lines from battery back.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JK9DzkcMWQaB368UA
 

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I went with a way overkill 1/0 cable direct to battery and an 8ga for ground. My 1/0 goes to a power distribution block behind the rear cargo panel where the sub is located. you can see from my photo link - the plan was always to leave some flexibility to add the amp...will it cause interference? - maybe but we'll see - if it does then I'll probably go back to drawing board and run 2 separate lines from battery back.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JK9DzkcMWQaB368UA
I'm kinda guessing here, but I wouldn't think we'd get interference unless the compressor was turned on pulling power. And it's not like we would be trying to listen to crisp audio while we're airing up tires. I think this might work! So glad you mentioned your compressor!
 

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Johnny Mo

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Sorry.... I'm back. Does anyone have pics of their bass volume knob install? I'm assuming I've got to pull up the center console?
Someone installed it in the blank plate next to the headlight switch, most others have gone 3M VHT tape to the underside of the center console just above the cell phone charging tray - from what I've seen. I'm probably going 3M tape/center console
 

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Someone installed it in the blank plate next to the headlight switch, most others have gone 3M VHT tape to the underside of the center console just above the cell phone charging tray - from what I've seen. I'm probably going 3M tape/center console
Got it. Thanks!
 

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I went with a way overkill 1/0 cable direct to battery and an 8ga for ground. My 1/0 goes to a power distribution block behind the rear cargo panel where the sub is located. you can see from my photo link - the plan was always to leave some flexibility to add the amp...will it cause interference? - maybe but we'll see - if it does then I'll probably go back to drawing board and run 2 separate lines from battery back.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JK9DzkcMWQaB368UA
fyi, anyone looking for budget cabling, for a recent amp install I used jumper cables. 15ft jumper cable means you get 30ft of cable once you split the jumper. Just an option if you find jumper cables on sale, I got them local the day I was doing the install, instead of waiting for a more expensive Amazon cable order.
 

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Spoke with my cousin who has been doing this stuff professionally for decades. He advised not to draw power off my 10-gauge compressor run and said he'd feel more comfortable with me running 4-guage to a distro block in the back and running an 8-gauge run from the distro block to the amp. I think that makes a lot of sense, but considering how many people have done this install running it off 8-gauge has anyone had any issues with overheating?
 

Johnny Mo

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All done! Very happy with the results. Thanks again to all of you here who paved the way.

Infinity Ref 407s in all 5 - 4" locations, Kicker Comp R 8" powered by a Kicker Key 500.1. I initially wanted to make my own connector, but in the process of crimping the pin it got stuck in my crimping tool and then broke - I knew I had some spare pins from the air horn project - but couldn't find them. I cut the harness and spliced it in and as I was getting my box of heat shrink crimp connectors - guess what I found - the extra pins for the connector. Oh well - it's not like I was gonna bring it back to stock so whatevs. I'm happy with the result.
 

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You guys are only using one of the connections on the sub, correct? i.e. One positive and one negative. I did not realize there were two connection points on the back of this sub. I haven’t installed stereo equipment since college 🤦🏻‍♂️😂
 
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Ksjrb03

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You guys are only using one of the connections on the sub, correct? i.e. One positive and one negative. I did not realize there were two connection points on the back of this sub. I haven’t installed stereo equipment since college 🤦🏻‍♂️😂
You talking about the sub input wires? You need to connect them both. Assuming your using the same ohm sub I did, you connect one set of wires from the amp, then jumper across to the other input.
 

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You talking about the sub input wires? You need to connect them both. Assuming your using the same ohm sub I did, you connect one set of wires from the amp, then jumper across to the other input.
Yes, I’m using the Kicker that you recommended and linked to. Which is a 4 ohm sub, correct? Got to the point of wiring the sub and was surprised to find two connection points. Okay, so I run one pos/neg from the Kicker amp to, say, input A, and then I’m. Running a jump from input A to input B. Cool. Thank you!
 

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Yes, I’m using the Kicker that you recommended and linked to. Which is a 4 ohm sub, correct? Got to the point of wiring the sub and was surprised to find two connection points. Okay, so I run one pos/neg from the Kicker amp to, say, input A, and then I’m. Running a jump from input A to input B. Cool. Thank you!
If you got the 4 ohm follow the instructions that came with the sub for wiring in parallel.
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