SOLDI replaced the center channel speaker with a Hertz 100.3. I have an extra one if someone wants to make me an offer. These cost $160 shipped (for the pair from Crutchfield) so no possible fake speakers that are sold on Amazon/Ebay. Thanks!
I'm doing this same thing, Just the 5 speakers, rears and dash. So far I've done the Focals (pods) in the rear last night and will finish up with the dash later today. Just the Pods, as someone earlier pointed out in an earlier post, are heavily influenced by the FADE location (placement on the speaker settings screen). Until you start playing with the FADE you almost don't realize how much the front dash speakers are doing, it almost neglect the rears and sub if set too far forward! Before looking into this speaker mod I made the mistake of just placing the (FADE) center point between the two front seats and in doing that the system sounded more tinggy, if that makes any sense? Basically the more you move the FADE to the rear and center of the vehicle the more the rear speakers and more importantly the sub plays into the sound. I'm sure to the audiophiles in the room you're thinking......well, no shitI finished my install of the 3 dash speakers (JLs that OP used) and the 2 pod speakers (focals that OP used).
It really does make a big difference in sound quality. I felt like the B&O system was missing some mid/low range and felt "flat" (I'm not an audiophile so I'm not even sure what the right lingo is). There is a huge difference with just those 5 speakers replaced.
I was having problems getting the electrical connectors to mate to the speaker so I ended up soldering the amazon harness that the OP references to the speaker, and then just snapping it into the factory harness. I also filled the speaker cavity with kilmat like OP suggested.
I was showing the bronco to two new people yesterday after the install and they both said, "wow, this thing has a great stereo system in it"...
The system is good enough such that I'm probably going to skip the key amp and new sub. I'd be really tempted to coat the factory sub enclosure with kilmat, stuff with the polyfil as OP suggested, and try to kill some rattle before upgrading the factory sub +amp. With speakers, kilmat, harnesses, panel poppers I'm probably in for $400 at this point and I can say that I'm getting more than $400 of enjoyment out of it. Not sure I'd get that big of a return on investment with the sub.
One other thing, I noticed the biggest improvement with the JL center channel replacement and the rear pod focals. If I had to do this over, I'd probably try focals in all locations. I know OP poopoo'd that config, but audio quality is probably a little subjective, and the focals I think pack a little bit bigger punch than the JLs. If you aren't upgrading the sub, you might get more enjoyment out of the focals...maybe....
Thanks again to OP for a great post.
but to us non stereo peeps, in this vehicle at least, it really makes a big difference. 
I haven't tried messing with the fade. But that's a good thought, I'll try that.I'm doing this same thing, Just the 5 speakers, rears and dash. So far I've done the Focals (pods) in the rear last night and will finish up with the dash later today. Just the Pods, as someone earlier pointed out in an earlier post, are heavily influenced by the FADE location (placement on the speaker settings screen). Until you start playing with the FADE you almost don't realize how much the front dash speakers are doing, it almost neglect the rears and sub if set too far forward! Before looking into this speaker mod I made the mistake of just placing the (FADE) center point between the two front seats and in doing that the system sounded more tinggy, if that makes any sense? Basically the more you move the FADE to the rear and center of the vehicle the more the rear speakers and more importantly the sub plays into the sound. I'm sure to the audiophiles in the room you're thinking......well, no shit
Anyway, I just wanted to give a thank you to the others in this thread for posting up and the OP for starting this thread and doing so much work. Thank you!
I haven't seen any blown speakers at all. I didn't install bass blockers, and there is no real need in the B&O since the DSP is handling that function itself. Sounds like you just had bad luck to me.
It's crackling, blown tweeter I suspect. I didn't think the DSP would have the power to take out the JL speaker.
Didn't know that, but I have the second one laying on the shelf anyway due to only needing 3 to install in the Bronco.
Ya they usually want both back in original packaging for exchanges. But they are awesome when it comes to returns. Usually no questions asked and no extra fees.
I just got my BD... Please let me know if you 3D scan the sub box area as that would help me build that custom enclosure for a 10'. I would then be happy to share that build and process with everyone here.I'm new and still waiting to get my Black Diamond Sasquatch with the mid package. In the mean time I've been making my lists of add-ons and its a long list!
I plan on adding better speakers mainly the dash and rears. I like what I've seen about the factory looking wire kit & Kicker 200.4 DSP amp that Plugnplaykits offers to fix the Bronco speaker system. However, I've been debating about adding a Subwoofer but not sure.
I was thinking if I did I'd like it to look factory inside the rear quarter panel where the factory B&O Sub goes. I know for models without it we get the little cubby in place. My thoughts were to maybe cut out or fab that cubby to mount a sub inside it in some fashion and make it look factory tucked away. Then I was thinking I could use the factory sub speaker cover that comes in the B&O system quarter panel and mount in that cutout. I would think the cubby shape cutout is the same cutout for the B&O sub speaker cover so they would be interchangeable. I don't know if they match up since I don't have mine yet. Anyone know if they do?
I wonder if Ksjrb03 or anyone else with the B&O setup can take off the factory sub speaker cover and provide the FORD part number for that speaker cover??
My other thought I had was to 3D scan the Factory Sub box mounting area as well as the box. Then I can redesign the 3D model and 3D print a better box build! I have a handheld 3D scanner & 3D Printer. This could be a great item to resell and far less expensive.
Run down to Lowes and grab some wire strippers/crimpers. Sure walmart sells them too.Hey guys, I'm in trouble now. Noob here, I was thinking that the amazon wiring harness was plug and play and I would not need to 'crimp' or splice anything. Lo and behold I open the package and nothing is connected to the terminals. Of course I already have the trim off and the speakers ready to go. Am I screwed without a crimping tool / no idea how to crimp? I have some needle noses but thats it.
Done! Got the 5 Focal's installed. Sounds amazing to me on my 2DR, and honestly I'm happy with the factory sub for now. Thanks for the writeup, if an idiot like me who's never touched a speaker before can do it anyone can.
I actually put those in my rear pods, The sensitivity of those are definitely higher and sound amazing especially with Kilmat inside the pods!I replaced the center channel speaker with a Hertz 100.3. I have an extra one if someone wants to make me an offer. These cost $160 shipped (for the pair from Crutchfield) so no possible fake speakers that are sold on Amazon/Ebay. Thanks!
A little bit off subject, wondering did you just add the kicker 500 and forgo the existing amp in rear panel? or did you splice into sub speaker wires after factory amp? also, I’m going to add the kicker 200 to the pods and front dash (not center), Wondering if you might have any words of wisdom about letting those rear pods run through the facto amp and then add in kicker amp after. Appreciate your help bro! Once again, thank you for the write up and the kick ass pictures!
