Thanks for the detailed explanation. Just eye balling it without lights in hand, to me it looked like they would not interfere with each other while in the recessed position, but that makes more sense that the issue is actually the lack of clearance while pivoting the latches to remove. Thank you for confirming.
That's just what I did...I lost my wire tap (fell into the abyss under the panel) while trying to get it to close on the gray/purple wire. In the end, I just ran a wire through the firewall to Aux 6.
Yea hell, that's the best idea I've heard yet....jacking around with the harness with one hand about 6 inches back in a tight space should be the last option. Since the feedback is they are super bright, I'm just going to send them to an Aux and turn on when daylight is required.
That's where my head was at with it. I don't have kids, so no need for super bright lights every time a door is opened. To be clear though, I have not even gotten the harness out of the box yet. Hoping to get some time to work on her this weekend. This is definitely on the list!
I thought it was much harder crimping the aux pass through wires under the glove box than it was tapping the gray/purple wire. Those wires under the glove box are no easier to access.
You can always call us, but realistically the quickest way is to run up to your local auto parts store and grab an 18ga t-tap for under a dollar.
We have seen only 3 instances where the ground wire was not making a solid connection. One customer said he just put the ground wire between the bracket and the rollbar and that solved it. The other one had loosened the bolt to re-run the harness and forgot to tighten the bolt back up. The third left the ground wire on the front side of the bracket and added a washer under the head of the bolt.
Personally, even if you never plan on connecting a lightbar up there, I would still run through the grommet on the driver's side to under the hood. That is going to require much less work and frustration, particularly because the one above the passenger visor is unpowered.
Isn’t that just a matter of connecting Aux 3, 4, 5 or 6 to B1 or B2 then to D? I haven’t actually looked closely into that D wire - because I never had plans to install a light bar - but, this seems like a perfect way to use that factory wiring.
While using that wire and making more connections under the glovebox would work, there is absolutely no reason to. It is way more work to access those wires and make those connections, than to run a couple feet of wire to the engine bay. Why make it more difficult for absolutely no gain?
