- First Name
- Bill
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2020
- Threads
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- 519
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- 711
- Location
- Vegas Baby!
- Vehicle(s)
- E150 Adventure Van, Chevrolet Spark
- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
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- #106
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I did email the manufacture before I hollered at you. Waiting on their response. And I did the test too, worked just like you described. So confused right now.very strange. When your black wire is connected to the chassis, that’s the same setup I have, not sure why you are getting a different result.
one thing you can test; before I installed permanently, I wanted to test it out. I connected right into the battery, red positive, black negative, and then used the yellow wire to tap the positive terminal to actuate it. As soon as I touched and released the yellow wire from the positive terminal, it would sound. Might be interesting to see if yours works the same way, and if not, ask the manufacturer.
Hey there,I did email the manufacture before I hollered at you. Waiting on their response. And I did the test too, worked just like you described. So confused right now.
I tested it this way before going the route I did. It did not work
The trigger signal (yellow wire) needs to be independent of the red positive wire.
I wish it did work, would have made things much easier
@VoltageDrop , @BaseSquatch , @AbeFroman may I offer a workaround?It's hard to roll one's eyes while laughing but I definitely did it while watching that video
Instead of rigging up your own fuse, you could probably splice together the red constant and yellow momentary wires to your aux switch wire so that it uses the factory fuse for the switch. I assume that would work but, disclaimer, I've never studied the circuitry of an electronic horse.
So if I understand your suggestion, you’re saying use a second aux switch to act as a fuse? I would suggest just buying an inline fuse, wire it between the red wire and the battery, and then you only need 1 aux switch to act as the trigger. Or was there another reason to use two switches?@VoltageDrop , @BaseSquatch , @AbeFroman may I offer a workaround?
Assuming you have plenty of open Aux's left, supply the Red+ Supply wire to let's say Aux#5, leave it in the "On" position and then wire the Yellow Intermittent power supply wire Aux#6.
Should work perfectly that way. I'm going to test it out tomorrow.
The main reason I thought of this way is that I have an inline fuse supplied via the aux switch at my disposal right now, and I'd have to order an "add a fuse" adapter online and wait a few days for it to arrive .So if I understand your suggestion, you’re saying use a second aux switch to act as a fuse? I would suggest just buying an inline fuse, wire it between the red wire and the battery, and then you only need 1 aux switch to act as the trigger. Or was there another reason to use two switches?
Funny you say that. Ended up being my problem too. Felt so stupid once I figured it out.Hey there,
So I just finished installing my silly horse horn, and I was worried I had the same problem as you.
Turns out, I just had the accessory toggle set to the on position by default, which makes it go off every time you start the car.
It seems that blue light on aux switch = off, amber light = on.
Leaving the switch set to blue (off) stops the horn from sounding on start.
Glad I wasn’t the only one!Funny you say that. Ended up being my problem too. Felt so stupid once I figured it out.
Hey there,
So I just finished installing my silly horse horn, and I was worried I had the same problem as you.
Turns out, I just had the accessory toggle set to the on position by default, which makes it go off every time you start the car.
It seems that blue light on aux switch = off, amber light = on.
Leaving the switch set to blue (off) stops the horn from sounding on start.
I bet you’re fun at parties.No offense, to each their own, but I think this belongs on the "Garbage Accessories" thread...
I'm lots of fun at parties. Just not into stuff that's tacky AF.I bet you’re fun at parties.