Thanks for posting this!!! I found the information helpful!
I wondered if you considered the Icon Rebound Pro with +25 offset?
I wondered if you considered the Icon Rebound Pro with +25 offset?
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I think you understand this, but i'll clarify anyway. The Non-sas has more wheel travel because of the coil-over. the Sasquatch limits wheel travel in jounce because of the larger tire, yes. But it also is an OEM package which typically like to maintain 25mm clearance or more to all components in all states. That is VERY conservative, as OEMs have to be. I will bet money right now that my limitation in jounce, to the fender is less than 1". I don't care to be as conservative as the OEM. less than 1" is fine.This is pretty funny >> First things first, I got the non-sasquatch for a specific reason (aside from the manual) it has more wheel travel.
You have more wheel travel because you have smaller tires. But now that you are running 37s, you actually have way less travel when compared to a SAS bronco.
The Bronco was built to handle 35's in spades, I think the non-sas is the best because you can throw 35's under there with no issue and have more wheel travel than sas-broncos. (depending on wheel offset). I went with 37's because I am more interested in rock-crawling and mud, where tire radius really pays off. And simply, because I can. It will take only minor tweaks to mitigate this rub.Great write up and approach! I haven't found much I want to run that needs more than my 33s, but I will likely go up to "true" 34s when my stock BFGs need to be replaced. How is the handling, mileage, ride with the 37s? It is just pounded into my head that un-sprung weight is the enemy of all things suspension, so even plus sizing to 34s makes me question the utility. The other option may be for me to buy a set of 35's to use when I head to Holly Oaks, Drummond or snow wheeling and keep my 33s for general use. Your project has me leaning that way. BTW, Are you a member of the MI Bronco Club? https://michiganbroncos.club/ @'21OBX is one of us We are having some fun, plus you and I are practically neighbors (I am in Northville and will be watching for you now!).
Yes! That was my original go to. Such a genius idea imo. But I wasn't a huge fan of the style (still like it, but not my favorite). If Icon throws that pseudo beadlock tech into a bunch of other styles I think they have a golden ticket for people interested in beadlock like performance without all the other hassle or cost.Thanks for posting this!!! I found the information helpful!
I wondered if you considered the Icon Rebound Pro with +25 offset?
No, He has more wheel travel because the Sasquatch Bilsteins have 1/2" more bump stop than the Badlands ones. Tire size doesn't matter as long as they are unobstructed from using all availalble travel, and that is what this thread is about, is figuring out those obstructions and how to fix them.This is pretty funny >> First things first, I got the non-sasquatch for a specific reason (aside from the manual) it has more wheel travel.
You have more wheel travel because you have smaller tires. But now that you are running 37s, you actually have way less travel when compared to a SAS bronco.
I will do this this weekend and report back. Hope to have at least a partial spacer level on by then. I still doubt that driving up on a rock would flex as hard as lifting from the rear with the tractor though.I'd like to see this duplicated with 37's (about the 3:45 mark)
I also have a non sas badlands on 37'sIt's also worth noting that these are true 37's, at least as true as it gets.
If you are going with 37x12.5 KO2s/KM3's you might have more forgiving results.
Have you considered a small body lift? You should be able to get some additional clearance to the fenders this way.UPDATE, there are clearance concerns that NEED to be addressed if I want to jump this, or get into the jounce bumpers hard.
Credit due Jdyount and Tricky Dick. This will not be a permanent solution, though I think I will be able to wheel anthing at bundy hill just fine.
My original flex test involved driving up on a rock until I was on two wheels. Of course the flare would rub, but there was a about 0.5" clearance to the fender, and that was as flexed as I could get it by driving up on an obstacle.
I decided to do another flex test, this time using the tractor to lift the tire in a more controlled way, and also very importantly I lifted from the rear. This way the maximum amount of weight could be transferred to the front to absolutely flex it to the max. The only way to stuff it harder would be to literally jump it.
The verdict: Rub. I am a bit disappointed I did not test from the rear the first time. The saving grace is that this is the absolute maximum flex I can achieve and I just barely kiss the fender lip. As I turn, it gets into the wheel liner a bit (not as worried about that).
This is the price I pay for maximum wheel travel. As long as I don't jump it, I think I will be able to wheel this way, but it is important to know the limitations and pick lines to avoid unnecessary risk, and of course know that your maximum flex comes from being positioned nose down.
Moving forward I think my remedy will be ADV's high clearance fenders. I wish more companies jumped into that market, I think its a sweet idea. Any suspension lift kit that "solves" this issue, will come at the sacrifice of jounce travel. Even kits that purport to increase wheel travel, certainly dont in jounce.
Enjoy the pics, this thing really can FLEX!
Chain is there because I did not want to risk flipping it over by mistake. The tires are just kissing the grass, looks like more because they are at 10 psi and the grass is long.
I have, definitely not opposed. I prefer body lift to spacer lift for anything over 1" I think, though I would prefer a full on diff drop/suspension rework to either. But yea a body lift would work. I am going to see what I can do with the absolute minimum spacer lift first and report back. I think body lifts get a bad rap and are underrated for a lot of applications.Have you considered a small body lift? You should be able to get some additional clearance to the fenders this way.
I’ve got a non-SAS BL on order and am very thankful for this thread and the others who already have theirs and are putting the effort in to fit 37’s with the absolute minimum suspension mods.
Completely agree. Going from our stock BL on 33" to 37" will get us 2" of clearance everywhere, uniformly (even more if you get true 37" tires). A suspension lift of any height + 37" doesn't buy you any additional clearance to your rear axel, or towards the outside side of the lower control arm up front. Of course the body lift won't get you any additional clearance either, but you've saved a considerable amount of money.I think body lifts get a bad rap and are underrated for a lot of applications.
Oh believe me, its not the time. That farm requires a ton of work, and that isnt even my full time job. Full time job being engineering, its rather easy to whip up stuff like this, and I enjoy it.Amazing the time some people have on their hands. That was alot of work that could have been had with just a Google search. I wish I had a 1/4 of that time.