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A question on injection types. Cleanliness vs longevity

Bmadda

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Boost coolers like Snow Performance and the like would help wash the valves too right? That would be a win win on added performance. A DI 2.3 with a boost cooler and a Ford tune should match the 2.7 performance if not exceed it along with making it more reliable and cooler running atleast in the cylinders? How about nitrous? :ROFLMAO:
Clean valves won't matter if your oil pan is ventillated
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Bmadda

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I'm not sure, but I might have stumbled into another one of these 2.7 v 2.3 d#ck measuring contests. If u guys wana talk tech I'm in, but if its "I'm a macho dude and gotta have more cyls" then f this thread. Nothing wrong w/4cyls!
 

Mattwings

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DI-only is precisely the reason Ford (and others) are going to DI/PI systems. DI-only results in trouble-causing carbon deposits to build up on the valve stems because there is no gasoline in the incoming air stream to wash off the nascent deposits (Google for pics of build-up). Going to port injection restores this washing effect. The addition of PI is intended to eliminate the poor running starting at 40-50K miles with DI-only engines, so no "special" maintenance should be needed. The only thing I'm going to do is the same thing I've been doing for years in all my vehicles -- an occasional dump-in of Techron to clean the injectors.

TL,DR: The concerns with the previous DI problems arising from gummed-up valves should not be applied to the current DI/PI systems. The "DI problems" concern should not be a cause of worry where the underlying cause has been addressed.

As I noted above, given the choice, I won't buy a DI engine without PI.
That’s a helpful explanation. I love the idea of a lighter 2.3l in my Bronco, but my current and past 2.7l are just so good, I hesitate to make the switch. I have read a lot about the DI issues and that, my experience with the 2.7/10sp and the ultimate performance capacity the 2.7 has over the 2.3 if and when I mod it, keeps me biased towards the 2.7. I drove between 400 miles between 78 and 90 on the freeway and running around the town where we have our cottage in Northern MI this weekend. 20.4 MPG average on 87 octane fuel. I do think low speed wheeling will be awesome with the 2.3 and having less weight is a tempting benefit as well. I would not hesitate on either one, it’s more just a question of cost/benefit. I do think it’s cool to do more with less as well.
 
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Bmadda

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That’s a helpful explanation. I love the idea of a lighter 2.3l in my Bronco, but my current and past 2.7l are just so good, I hesitate to make the switch. I have read a lot about the DI issues and that, my experience with the 2.7/10sp and the ultimate performance capacity the 2.7 has over the 2.3 if and when I mod it, keeps me biased towards the 2.7. I drove between 400 miles between 78 and 90 on the freeway and running around the town where we have our cottage in Northern MI this weekend. 20.4 MPG average on 87 octane fuel. I do think low speed wheeling will be awesome with the 2.3 and having less weight is a tempting benefit as well. I would not hesitate on either one, it’s more just a question of cost/benefit. I do think it’s cool to do more with less as well.
I can't find the post but somebody had "projected curb wieghts" for various configurations. The weight savings of the 2.3 is substantial...add the manual trans, and its even more substantial. That has been my goal from day 1...keep wieght down. All 4x4s have a tendency to get heavier and heavier. I realize that 4200lb is not an import racer type number, but its all relative when a similar model is gonna scale at 5k. Jeeps aren't light compared to "boy racer" type cars, but relative to other 4x4 vehicles they are
 

The Pope

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Why wait? If you know something or have an opinion, why does it matter what others have to say?
I didn't want to bias the comments, as if you've seen my other post in regards to the 2.3L vs. 2.7L or the ones where there are debates over the MT not being offered with the 2.7L, you'd already know that I'm in the Direct & Port Injection camp. @mneblett (who I'd say is way more knowledgeable on the subject) has provided an excellent description of the differences between the DI and the DI/PI Systems and like @mneblett , I will only buy DI/PI.
 

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so how do diesel engines handle the supposed gunked valve problem?
most these days are turbocharged direct injection.
 

dejones64

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I have been trying to stay away from DI because of all the issues with maintenance and added problems. I bought my 2016 5.0 coyote because it was NOT DI. Can you tell me what maintenance should be done to keep the 2.7 problem free ? I have only ever ran Red Line in my trucks at each oil change and never had any issues with dirty injectors, codes thrown of even poor performance. I understand from Dealer, that should not be expected on 2.7.
Red Line is that a fuel additive/cleaner?
 
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MaverickMan

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Just out of curiosity. Would spraying Gumout or throttle body cleaner after the air intake occasionally help this issue or perhaps hurt the turbo?
 

Austin26

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I don't mean to derail the thread but I wanted to thank many of y'all for helping me learn more about this new generation of auto technology I was ignorant of. I had a bad taste in my mouth about DI as the only reference I had was our mechanics complaining about how crappy the Nissan Juke DI motor was. I wasn't planning on upgrading the engine but I will for potential longevity. Even my wife agreed. So thank y'all.
 

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I have been trying to stay away from DI because of all the issues with maintenance and added problems. I bought my 2016 5.0 coyote because it was NOT DI. Can you tell me what maintenance should be done to keep the 2.7 problem free ? I have only ever ran Red Line in my trucks at each oil change and never had any issues with dirty injectors, codes thrown of even poor performance. I understand from Dealer, that should not be expected on 2.7.
Own a 2016 F150 (129k trouble free miles) 1st gen 2.7 DI purchased new.

No catch can
Custom tune installed when the truck had less than 500 miles

This is my maintenance routine:

7.5k Oil change interval (Castrol/Mobil Euro 0w40)

Sparked plugs changed every 60k gapped to .28

AFe air filter cleaned every 25k

Bottle of Gumount All-In-One fuel injection cleaner every 5k

ATF drain and refill every 30k (installed a drain plug bung and B&M dipstick for easy draining and refilling)

Gear oil and coolant replaced at 100k

Cabin air filter changed ever 50k

Original brakes and belts

In the five years the truck has only been back to the dealer to reflash the PCM when I added the oem trailer brake controller
 
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MaverickMan

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Own a 2016 F150 (129k trouble free miles) 1st gen 2.7 DI purchased new.

No catch can
Custom tune installed when the truck had less than 500 miles

This is my maintenance routine:

7.5k Oil change interval (Castrol/Mobil Euro 0w40)

Sparked plugs changed every 60k gapped to .28

AFe air filter cleaned every 25k

Bottle of Gumount All-In-One fuel injection cleaner every 5k

ATF drain and refill every 30k (installed a drain plug bung and B&M dipstick for easy draining and refilling)

Gear oil and coolant replaced at 100k

Cabin air filter changed ever 50k

Original brakes and belts

In the five years the truck has only been back to the dealer to reflash the PCM when I added the oem trailer brake controller

Its only 7 commandments but I think we can get this religion off the ground!
 

pacsun82

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Its only 7 commandments but I think we can get this religion off the ground!
#8 throttle body cleaned at 100k

#9 MAP sensors cleaned every 50k

#10 redline it once a day

#11 Don't drink the kool-aid
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