AMP Research vs Rock Slide Power steps (My Review)

[IwannaGOfast]

My truck sits a lot, I put 3,600 on it last year. No issues with battery. Also the magnets seem to work great, I have had zero issues with them and steps deploy every time. I know in the beginning people had issues with the magnet because it was near the curve of the door. I believe RSE introduced a plastic backing (that's what came with mine) for the magnets that placed them in a more ideal location for better contact.​

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[Jhuff]

Thanks everyone!

It just occurred to me that IAG is tapping into a "door-open" lead for their interior lights.
I might be interested in using that instead of the magnets.
I'd rather put any new holes between interior/exterior higher than lower.

Hmmm, custom RSE wired steps? Sounds fun!

Good point on the steps re-learning when power is cut. I hadn't heard that before. It adds another reason for the constant power hook-up.

I'd probably go with factory RSE hookup and see if I have any issues before resorting to alternate methods to reduce standby power draw. No need to over complicate if there are no issues.

I really wanted to tap into the door wires. But, "what I didn't know" kept me from even experimenting. If the doors are ground side switches (which I think they are), it requires some additional wiring on the relay to close it (if that's what you use and not some other digital controller). I've read that even doing this ground side wiring on a relay may cause vampiric draw too. There is no win win!

On top of that, I was a little scared of how much load those wires and computer circuits could handle when tripping the relay (since those door wires talk to the computer). One of our knowledgeable members thought the computer would be ok, but with all my concerns (Probably overthinking) I eventually gave up on the idea.



If you figure out an elegant way to control these steps without magnets, I hope to see a diy thread!

 

[Bradley Thornton]

I really wanted to tap into the door wires. But, "what I didn't know" kept me from even experimenting. If the doors are ground side switches (which I think they are), it requires some additional wiring on the relay to close it (if that's what you use and not some other digital controller). I've read that even doing this ground side wiring on a relay may cause vampiric draw too. There is no win win!

On top of that, I was a little scared of how much load those wires and computer circuits could handle when tripping the relay (since those door wires talk to the computer). One of our knowledgeable members thought the computer would be ok, but with all my concerns (Probably overthinking) I eventually gave up on the idea.



If you figure out an elegant way to control these steps without magnets, I hope to see a diy thread!

Ok, if it's a ground and I have no idea if it is. Using the computer won't hurt a thing if your saying the computer gives ground.

I have 0 issues with the magnets, BUT I am curious about this. What if you have the doors off would it work the same as it does now. (Stay deployed or have to push a Botton to go down) Also if I have time next year I want to find a way to make the magnets work with my tube doors. No way to do that the other way.

 

[Jhuff]

Ok, if it's a ground and I have no idea if it is. Using the computer won't hurt a thing if your saying the computer gives ground.

I have 0 issues with the magnets, BUT I am curious about this. What if you have the doors off would it work the same as it does now. (Stay deployed or have to push a Botton to go down) Also if I have time next year I want to find a way to make the magnets work with my tube doors. No way to do that the other way.

I didn't dive much deeper than a mental design on this, but I was hoping that removing and unplugging the doors would somehow tell the computer that "doors are always shut"... Else dome lights, warnings, and other things would always be on. Never got to test it though.

Oh and as far as my last comment parasitic draw from the relay, I believe that was a misplaced memory from when I was looking into solid state relays for the project.

 

[Merc4x4]

If the/any relay has standby power draw, I'd need to make sure it is less than the RSE steps, otherwise there will be little point in adding the extra wiring. Which means I should measure/know the power draw of the RSE before modifying.

@Bradley Thornton Do the (stock) interior dome lights work with the tube doors, the same as they do for the full doors?

A question nobody but IAG can answer would be if the IAG dome lights work with the tube doors. If so I could run the step trigger wire through the phantom clutch grommet in the firewall.
One downside to this would be running a wire across from the passenger, and I assume not having the 2 sides work independently. I.e., when any 1 door is opened, both steps will retract.

I have no issue with the magnets, just didn't like poking holes in the grommets on the floor to pass the wires from the steps to the door jams. I guess a hole punch and some silicone sealer would more than suffice.

 

[Bradley Thornton]

If the/any relay has standby power draw, I'd need to make sure it is less than the RSE steps, otherwise there will be little point in adding the extra wiring. Which means I should measure/know the power draw of the RSE before modifying.

@Bradley Thornton Do the (stock) interior dome lights work with the tube doors, the same as they do for the full doors?

A question nobody but IAG can answer would be if the IAG dome lights work with the tube doors. If so I could run the step trigger wire through the phantom clutch grommet in the firewall.
One downside to this would be running a wire across from the passenger, and I assume not having the 2 sides work independently. I.e., when any 1 door is opened, both steps will retract.

I have no issue with the magnets, just didn't like poking holes in the grommets on the floor to pass the wires from the steps to the door jams. I guess a hole punch and some silicone sealer would more than suffice.

No dome lights don't work unless you cut them on doors have 0 effect.

 

[ffdemoss]

I've had RSE steps now for about 18 months. Zero issues with battery drain or magnets. I did have one controller fail because it got water in it. But RSE replaced it under warranty. I make sure I keep all moving parts lubed and spray inside the step boxes with fluid film to combat corrosion. One of the best upgrades I did to the Bronco. Makes getting in and out so much easier.

 

[JonDW29]

I've had RSE steps now for about 18 months. Zero issues with battery drain or magnets. I did have one controller fail because it got water in it. But RSE replaced it under warranty. I make sure I keep all moving parts lubed and spray inside the step boxes with fluid film to combat corrosion. One of the best upgrades I did to the Bronco. Makes getting in and out so much easier.

This is good to hear since my RSEs were just delivered this weekend. Need to grab another jack to put them on, but looking forward to it. Good tip on the liquid film. What are you using to lube the moving parts?

 

[ffdemoss]

This is good to hear since my RSEs were just delivered this weekend. Need to grab another jack to put them on, but looking forward to it. Good tip on the liquid film. What are you using to lube the moving parts?

PB dry spray. RSE has a maintenance sheet I followed.

 

[Bradley Thornton]

As per another member

Update 10/2023: RSE has fixed the battery drain problem and their steps now have a low power sleep mode. Contact RSE support to request an updated controller for older steps if you have battery drain issues.

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