Base Sound System Upgrade/Build

[Bronc OH]

I did amp the rear pods.

I took the feed from the factory head unit to the kick panel speakers back to my LOC, then RCA's to my amp, then the amp output goes back to the kick panel speakers, split off to the 4" dash speakers as from factory.

Sweet, that confirms my thinking and what I was planning to do in case we can't figure out how to unlock the rear speakers via Forscan. So you've got full range in front & rear 4" speakers, along with yours doors. I'm assuming the improvement was night/day.. how much better are the rear pods now that they're full-range and amplified?

I assume you also gave up front/rear fade ability with this setup? that'd be the only drawback since we can't unlock the rear pods yet.

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[22OBX]

That's what i sorta figured most folks were doing. Doesn't that effectively only use 2 channels for the front speakers though (doors and dash?) What did you use the other 2 channels for (assuming 1 for sub) if not the rear pods?

Without a bronco torn down in front of me, i'm trying to figure out how to use all 4 channels of the amp up front if you only have 2 sets of front wires that power both the doors and dash?

Or does 'split off' really mean the door speaker has 4 wires running to it? 2 wires terminate at the door and 2 continue on to the dash? Then the Head Unit has 4 sets of wires coming out for the front speakers? I sorta assumed the fronts shared 2 sets of wires..

I plan on splitting the line level inputs from the front channel to the Key 200.4 and then on the output side of the Key have one channel drive the 6.5 and the other channel the front dash 4’s. Since the rear have high filter from factory output will just change rear pods to a better more sensitive speaker. I don’t think it will be an issue to split the line level prior to input into the Key amp.

 

[zombie]

Sweet, that confirms my thinking and what I was planning to do in case we can't figure out how to unlock the rear speakers via Forscan. So you've got full range in front & rear 4" speakers, along with yours doors. I'm assuming the improvement was night/day.. how much better are the rear pods now that they're full-range and amplified?

I assume you also gave up front/rear fade ability with this setup? that'd be the only drawback since we can't unlock the rear pods yet.

There's a post somewhere in another thread on here where I "demo" my setup, sounds night and day better to me.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...pgrade-with-lots-of-photos.32452/post-1093534

 

[Bronconewby]

If you have the base 6 speaker system and plan on just replacing the speakers. You need to pass all signals through the SYNC system. You will barely see a gain on just replacing the speakers. Although it is a lot better than the shitty stock speakers it is still being limited.

For those who are using Forscan you can open up the signals and can notice the difference considerably.. After looking and searching post and forums. I manage to do it yesterday. Here is the coding.

For most user who dont plan to go beyond the standard 6 speaker setup and are just replacing speakers i would go with.

727-01-01 3800 14F1 0063
Line 1 only.. nothing modified on line 2.
Good luck yall!!

 

[Bronconewby]

If you have the base 6 speaker system and plan on just replacing the speakers. You need to pass all signals through the SYNC system. You will barely see a gain on just replacing the speakers. Although it is a lot better than the shitty stock speakers it is still being limited.

For those who are using Forscan you can open up the signals and can notice the difference considerably.. After looking and searching post and forums. I manage to do it yesterday. Here is the coding.

For most user who dont plan to go beyond the standard 6 speaker setup and are just replacing speakers i would go with.

727-01-01 3800 14F1 0063
Line 1 only.. nothing modified on line 2.
Good luck yall!!

This is undwr the ACM module.

 

[clarkT]

This is undwr the ACM module.

Is that the same thing the dealer does when unlocking for the JBL sound bar?

 

[Dalbus]

I just added a subwoofer to my Outer Banks w/ LUX & B&O Sounds system. In my opinion, the factory B&O sub is not very good. Perhaps just putting a new speaker in place of the factory sub would work, but I think the problem is more likely in the amp, but you wouldn't know until you tried it. It would be really hard to replace the factory amp, so adding an amp and connecting it to factor sub or aftermarket sub would be just as much work, so i opted for an additional sub. I may eventually tune the 8" factory sub to cover the midrange/higher low range frequencies.

I installed a 600W Alpine amp and a 10" Alpine subwoofer tube. All in about $250-300 with parts and wiring. It sounds incredible, i worked as a custom car audio installer and built several state competition winning vehicles... it's not a competition sound, but sounds great. This is my first post so hopefully this works, i'm adding some pics of the factory sub and wiring.

I used my AUX switch #6 for my remote wire, that way i can turn off the "extra" bass when necessary, without having to have a separate bass control knob. If you haven't wired any of your AUX switches yet, it's pretty easy. The hardest part is the glove box... the wires aren't long enough so getting both hands into the small space to splice them together was tough.

I installed a 8 AWG power wire from an empty battery post > new 40A fuse block > Driver's side firewall (gasketed hole already there, no drilling needed). Ran Power down drivers side under the door jams. Grounded near the amp on a factory grounding post. Installed a LOC from the factory wiring. There are four speaker wires going to the factory sub. My LOC had four speaker inputs. Because I've read that the factory B&O system tones down the subwoofer at higher volumes, I wanted a fuller sound without that downscaling. So i used the speaker wires from the Rear left speaker, and one of the pairs from the subwoofer. Ran RCA's from the LOC to the sub. Connect everything, and good to go. Total install time, about 4.5 hours.

Be very careful removing the rear panels. The clips are tricky. I didn't break any of the main clips, but did break some of the small ones. Putting it back together was not easy, and my softtop closure is tighter now.

Wiring:

Factory Sub & Amps (blue wires are my subwoofer > LOC splice)

DRIVER REAR Speaker Tie-in

Sub and amp installed:

 

[Dalbus]

I just added a subwoofer to my Outer Banks w/ LUX & B&O Sounds system. In my opinion, the factory B&O sub is not very good. Perhaps just putting a new speaker in place of the factory sub would work, but I think the problem is more likely in the amp, but you wouldn't know until you tried it. It would be really hard to replace the factory amp, so adding an amp and connecting it to factor sub or aftermarket sub would be just as much work, so i opted for an additional sub. I may eventually tune the 8" factory sub to cover the midrange/higher low range frequencies.

I installed a 600W Alpine amp and a 10" Alpine subwoofer tube. All in about $250-300 with parts and wiring. It sounds incredible, i worked as a custom car audio installer and built several state competition winning vehicles... it's not a competition sound, but sounds great. This is my first post so hopefully this works, i'm adding some pics of the factory sub and wiring.

I used my AUX switch #6 for my remote wire, that way i can turn off the "extra" bass when necessary, without having to have a separate bass control knob. If you haven't wired any of your AUX switches yet, it's pretty easy. The hardest part is the glove box... the wires aren't long enough so getting both hands into the small space to splice them together was tough.

I installed a 8 AWG power wire from an empty battery post > new 40A fuse block > Driver's side firewall (gasketed hole already there, no drilling needed). Ran Power down drivers side under the door jams. Grounded near the amp on a factory grounding post. Installed a LOC from the factory wiring. There are four speaker wires going to the factory sub. My LOC had four speaker inputs. Because I've read that the factory B&O system tones down the subwoofer at higher volumes, I wanted a fuller sound without that downscaling. So i used the speaker wires from the Rear left speaker, and one of the pairs from the subwoofer. Ran RCA's from the LOC to the sub. Connect everything, and good to go. Total install time, about 4.5 hours.

Be very careful removing the rear panels. The clips are tricky. I didn't break any of the main clips, but did break some of the small ones. Putting it back together was not easy, and my softtop closure is tighter now.

Wiring:

Factory Sub & Amps (blue wires are my subwoofer > LOC splice)

DRIVER REAR Speaker Tie-in

Sub and amp installed:

I just added a subwoofer to my Outer Banks w/ LUX & B&O Sounds system. In my opinion, the factory B&O sub is not very good. Perhaps just putting a new speaker in place of the factory sub would work, but I think the problem is more likely in the amp, but you wouldn't know until you tried it. It would be really hard to replace the factory amp, so adding an amp and connecting it to factor sub or aftermarket sub would be just as much work, so i opted for an additional sub. I may eventually tune the 8" factory sub to cover the midrange/higher low range frequencies.

I installed a 600W Alpine amp and a 10" Alpine subwoofer tube. All in about $250-300 with parts and wiring. It sounds incredible, i worked as a custom car audio installer and built several state competition winning vehicles... it's not a competition sound, but sounds great. This is my first post so hopefully this works, i'm adding some pics of the factory sub and wiring.

I used my AUX switch #6 for my remote wire, that way i can turn off the "extra" bass when necessary, without having to have a separate bass control knob. If you haven't wired any of your AUX switches yet, it's pretty easy. The hardest part is the glove box... the wires aren't long enough so getting both hands into the small space to splice them together was tough.

I installed a 8 AWG power wire from an empty battery post > new 40A fuse block > Driver's side firewall (gasketed hole already there, no drilling needed). Ran Power down drivers side under the door jams. Grounded near the amp on a factory grounding post. Installed a LOC from the factory wiring. There are four speaker wires going to the factory sub. My LOC had four speaker inputs. Because I've read that the factory B&O system tones down the subwoofer at higher volumes, I wanted a fuller sound without that downscaling. So i used the speaker wires from the Rear left speaker, and one of the pairs from the subwoofer. Ran RCA's from the LOC to the sub. Connect everything, and good to go. Total install time, about 4.5 hours.

Be very careful removing the rear panels. The clips are tricky. I didn't break any of the main clips, but did break some of the small ones. Putting it back together was not easy, and my softtop closure is tighter now.

Wiring:

Factory Sub & Amps (blue wires are my subwoofer > LOC splice)

DRIVER REAR Speaker Tie-in

Sub and amp installed:

Nice setup, I’d like to do the same in my Wildtrak. Curious—Why did you mix sub and rear left signals for the LOC? Do you know which of those two will produce best low frequency signal for your Alpine amp/sub? Should the LOC get its signal pre or post B&O factory amp? Thanks for your advice.

 

[Relimb11]

I want to upgrade my 6 factory speakers.Dash,kick panels and pods.I planned on get some component speakers for the dash and kick panels and change the pods to maybe a 6.5 coaxial.I wanted to use the key 200.4 amp/dsp.I guess my question is I want 2 channels 1 to the front 1 to the rear.On the front channels for the 6.5 in the door and tweeter in the dash can I still use a passive crossover with this amp and get some bass out of the kicker panel without using amp 2?

 

[Thraxed]

There's a post somewhere in another thread on here where I "demo" my setup, sounds night and day better to me.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...pgrade-with-lots-of-photos.32452/post-1093534

Did you just amplify the 4inch front and rears and not the 6.5" kick panels? I'm trying to figure out what to buy as far as an amp and subwoofer goes and I don't know what to do.

I was looking to get this amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R7005A/Infinity-Reference-7005A.html?tp=35808

and a small sub like this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html?tp=112

 

[zombie]

Did you just amplify the 4inch front and rears and not the 6.5" kick panels? I'm trying to figure out what to buy as far as an amp and subwoofer goes and I don't know what to do.

I was looking to get this amp: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R7005A/Infinity-Reference-7005A.html?tp=35808

and a small sub like this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html?tp=112

Think of the kick and dash speaker as one channel.

So the fronts are 2 channels, the rear pods are 2 channels and I added a subwoofer so I needed to use a 5 channel amp. (and a 5 channel Line Output Converter, if you get an amp that will accept speaker level inputs you don't need a LOC)

 

[Cavallo11]

I've done alright with the PLA so far, printed a second version with more infill and just had to tighten them after some initial shrinking of the plastic! But I think I might still get them printed in ABS from one of the online print farms and test that out, but would be happy to "bring them to market" of the demand is there and the material holds up!

They definitely alot for good visibility out the back too!

I've done alright with the PLA so far, printed a second version with more infill and just had to tighten them after some initial shrinking of the plastic! But I think I might still get them printed in ABS from one of the online print farms and test that out, but would be happy to "bring them to market" of the demand is there and the material holds up!

They definitely alot for good visibility out the back too!

Im very interested in the adapters also

 

[wcmaness]

Is that the same thing the dealer does when unlocking for the JBL sound bar?

I don't think it's quite the same thing, because the dealer only "flashes" the system to let the sound bar alone have full range.

 

[Altitude]

I got some jl audio 4” to replace the focal 4” I had in the dash. /QUOTE]

Which model of JL speaker, please? I was originally looking at the C2-400x, but Crutchfield apparently doesn't think the Bronco can fit a 4 inch speaker where the tweeter sits above the woofer.

 

[Frankie945]

Jl audio c1 They have a lot of base for 4". You’ll need to turn it down some in the tone settings with them. Turned up loud they sound great.

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