DFNMan's 2 Door Basesquatch Sound System Upgrade

[DFNMAN]

Where did you tap in for remote wire?

My line output converter creates a remote out when it picks up a signal from the speaker output.

Sponsored

 

[DFNMAN]

Did you change out the stock radio?
I would love to have a CD player....

It is the stock stereo.

 

[DFNMAN]

I’m very curious about the pods. I have been planning on something similar for a while.
Question: is the enclosure for these speakers large enough? I’m curious if an enclosure that’s small like this one will allow the speaker to operate. Is there enough power and bass?

The other debate is a larger pos like that in a marine pod JL Audio makes one that’s larger.

And lastly what about mounting them in such a way they can be pivoted to play aft for tailgating.

They rear speakers are mainly for fill. You are not going to get much bass out of a coaxial no matter what you do.

 

[Slick85]

Nice build... so the single JL sub gets pretty loud? Do you think it would be enough even in a 4 door Bronco? I recently ordered mine and would like to do an aftermarket system with front components run active and a sub.

 

[SuicidalSmurf]

I have a 4 door badlands and the B&O sub is a very cheap dual voice coil. I was gonna order a new sub and need to figure out if it's 2 ohm or 4 ohm. I have a loc but not sure where the best place to hook it up at

Don't mean to hijack, but curious if you can find a part number on the pastic "shell" that the sub mounts into? Wonder if it could work as an enclosure for an aftermarket sub for the basic sound system. It appears it would just bolt in to models without the B&O if you could get the part?

Otherwise, appreciate that picture. I imagine if that space isn't taken up by anything in non B&O systems that there's quite a bit of space there for a compact powered sub enclosure.

Nevermind, found this thread https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...the-sub-subwoofer-speaker-in-b-o-system.5333/ looks like you can't just get the shell so about $250.

 

[j_anderson]

Don't mean to hijack, but curious if you can find a part number on the pastic "shell" that the sub mounts into? Wonder if it could work as an enclosure for an aftermarket sub for the basic sound system. It appears it would just bolt in to models without the B&O if you could get the part?

Otherwise, appreciate that picture. I imagine if that space isn't taken up by anything in non B&O systems that there's quite a bit of space there for a compact powered sub enclosure.

Nevermind, found this thread https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...the-sub-subwoofer-speaker-in-b-o-system.5333/ looks like you can't just get the shell so about $250.

I've thought about doing this too but also would need to get a new trim panel that has the opening and speaker grille attached to it. Waiting for a wrecked LUX bronco to be parted out...

 

[Scotteasymoney]

The front speakers only get a low frequency signal from the factory. They did sound great without the amplifier though.

Really appreciate the information..What difficulty would you rate this install? 1-10.
Was it difficult to access the back of the stereo to plug in the harness?. I was quoted 4700 for a ridiculous system and think I can do something very similar to your for 1/3 the cost. My only iss is I'm not familiar with the audio control unit and wiring. I have done radio,amp and speaker installs before.
Thanks for your knowledge.

 

[DFNMAN]

Really appreciate the information..What difficulty would you rate this install? 1-10.
Was it difficult to access the back of the stereo to plug in the harness?. I was quoted 4700 for a ridiculous system and think I can do something very similar to your for 1/3 the cost. My only iss is I'm not familiar with the audio control unit and wiring. I have done radio,amp and speaker installs before.
Thanks for your knowledge.

I took the entire dash apart, but once I did I realized it could be done by taking only the A/C controls out. It would be easy that way. The LC7i was easy too, if you can install an amp you can install a line output converter.

 

[Scotteasymoney]

I took the entire dash apart, but once I did I realized it could be done by taking only the A/C controls out. It would be easy that way. The LC7i was easy too, if you can install an amp you can install a line output converter.

My idea is to put all new speakers with a 5 chnl amp. 1 of the kicker down firing boxes in the rear. I am new the the Audio control stuff. Would I need the lc7i or would the lc2i work? How is the view out the back with the larger pods?

 

[Slick85]

I took the entire dash apart, but once I did I realized it could be done by taking only the A/C controls out. It would be easy that way. The LC7i was easy too, if you can install an amp you can install a line output converter.

Would the single W3 12 be loud enough for a 4 door Bronco?

 

[DFNMAN]

Would the single W3 12 be loud enough for a 4 door Bronco?

It depends on how much bass you want and if you have a hard or soft top. I would probably be happy with it in a 4 Door Hard Top.

 

[zane8stacks]

Thanks for posting! I really like that LLJ harness. I've been watching to see if PAC comes out with an Amp Pro for the newer Ford's / Bronco, but this looks like a cleaner and less expensive option. An aftermarket stereo is the first mod I plan for my non-Lux Badlands when / If I get it.

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd31

its listed on their website as coming soon. its a little pricey at $490, but it will allow me to run better amplified speakers.

 

[WuNgUn]

What I have done so far.....


Sound System

The last time I did this I went overboard and built fiberglass speaker boxes, added in-dash computers, added speaker locations, with multiple amps and DSP/Bass restoration. I didn't want to do that this time. I wanted simple complete sound system. Once I got into it I realized I don't the amount of free time as I once did. Everything was done in two hour chunks over a few weeks, so everything is broken up in the order I did them.

Front Speakers

I went with a 2 way component set I had laying around. They are Infinity PR6510CS's. They are decent but I will probably switch them to a 3 way set soon. They can be found on amazon for $75. If that is your budget they are great. They woofers mounted with no modifications using the adapters that came with the set. For the tweeters I used a set of universal tweeter adapters (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WGMW76V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

They fit perfectly by sliding the alignment pins in the dash through the outside holes and pinching them down with the factory screws. I did have to shave down the sides and open the center hole more for the tweeter to fit.

I used the factory wiring and connected it to the crossover and mounted it under the woofer in the kick panel speaker cavity. It took about an hour.



Rear Speakers

These took a little more work. I got a set of 6.5" Coaxial's (Infinity Primus PR6512IS), after hearing the component set I figured if I stuck with the same product line I would be happy. I also like the way the speaker grilles looked.

These thing sound amazing. These made a huge difference even without them being amplified. If you are only changing speakers with no Amp I would highly recommend putting 6.5"s in the rear. To mount them I purchased a set of universal speaker pods(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001285919509.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.140a4c4d0rj8Qu).

They are a good quality, and made with out of a thick plastic. I stuck some polyfill in them and installed the speakers.

To mount them I got a sheet if 16 gauge steel and fabricated bracket that bolted in to the factory location on the crossbar. To wire them I used the plugs off of the factory speakers. To prevent rattling and scratching I put furniture pads where the bracket connects to the car and speaker. Unfortunately I couldn't find black so ended up using brown.

Amplifier/Sub/Wiring


For the amplifier I wanted to keep it simple, so I got a 5 channel amp. I stuck with Infinity for that and got a refurbished Infinity Reference 7005A (https://www.ebay.com/itm/304179387149?). I have a two door so the is literally no place to hide a medium size amp, so it got mounted on the subwoofer box .

Line Output Converter


Since the Bronco doesn't have a full range signal going to the rear speakers I had to get a converter that did channel summing. I ordered an Audio Control LC7i and found them cheap on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/193131647464). In order for it to send a full signal to all channels you need to wire your rear signal to channel 1 and turn summing on for all channels. Another feature that the LC7i has that makes it very useful is Accubass. When you turn the volume up the factory stereo lowers the bass in order to protect the cheap factory speakers, this corrects that.

Wiring

I ordered a Loopback Harness Elite from LLJ Customs (https://lljcustoms.com/collections/ford/products/2018-2023-select-ford-elite-harness). There customer service is awful and it took almost 3x as long as advertised to receive, but damn it they make a high quality product. It made wiring the amplifier extremely simple. If you get the loopback harness it plugs directly into the stereo and sends the speaker out put and power to the line output converter, then it takes the output signal from your amp back to the stereo harness. That means you dont have to run new wire to your speakers and keeps the amp instal super clean. Well worth the wait.

For the power wire I ended up using a KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge amp kit(http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a.../complete-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit/). It is 100% OFC, Knuconcepts make a great wire. I only needed a fuse holder and power/ground wire, but it was cheaper to get a full kit. I ran the power wire down the diver's side and loopback harness down the passenger side to avoid any line hum.

Subwoofer

The rest of the sound system was so clean I decided to spend more then I planned on a subwoofer. I normally would go with an Image Dynamics ID Max in a sealed box , but i tried a ported JL Audio instead. I was not disappointed, the JL Audio HO110RG-W3v3 is unbelievably powerful and clean. I like a lot of bass and I had to lower my gains by about 70% after tuning it. I could not recommend it more.

The only change I plan on making is swapping out the front speakers for a 3 way component set.

I remember when stereo performance was more important than cargo space for me too! Lol

 

[DFNMAN]

I remember when stereo performance was more important than cargo space for me too! Lol

If you are concerned about space you shouldn’t be driving a 2 Door lol. I have other cars if I need to haul stuff.

 

[DFNMAN]

https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd31

its listed on their website as coming soon. its a little pricey at $490, but it will allow me to run better amplified speakers.

That is for the B&O system. If you have the base sound system you can get the loopback harness and a nice line output converter for that price, and you wouldn't have to run new speaker wires.

Sponsored