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Base System Subwoofer Install

threeonone

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Nice. I like the placement and look of yours. Is there anyway you could confirm how they connected it or post pictures of the connections? 🙏
I'm out of town away from the vehicle until next week. All the wiring runs behind the back seat and behind the trim though, so I won't be taking that apart.

47E0C001-6B0F-4CD9-A27B-FE597CC88FE6.jpeg
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Rus-T

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There are 2 questions in this post that I’m about to dig into this morning to solve for my own setup. 1. Do the rear speakers in the pods have filters on them as in limiting the sub output for the high level amp input (mine is currently wired this way in my Bronco and feel the sub is not producing like it should. Going to tap into the front kick panel speakers to see if it changes the output) and 2. Which I’ve already tested and yes you need both the left and right speaker inputs to a mono amp or you are selling yourself short on sound. I have both inputs hooked up now, and when I disconnect one, the sound drops by half on the sub. I’ll reply later this morning on the rear speaker filter issue once I rewire to the front kicks.
 

Rus-T

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There are 2 questions in this post that I’m about to dig into this morning to solve for my own setup. 1. Do the rear speakers in the pods have filters on them as in limiting the sub output for the high level amp input (mine is currently wired this way in my Bronco and feel the sub is not producing like it should. Going to tap into the front kick panel speakers to see if it changes the output) and 2. Which I’ve already tested and yes you need both the left and right speaker inputs to a mono amp or you are selling yourself short on sound. I have both inputs hooked up now, and when I disconnect one, the sound drops by half on the sub. I’ll reply later this morning on the rear speaker filter issue once I rewire to the front kicks.
Okay, just ran a few test wires to the front kick speakers and confirmed, the rear speakers have filters. The sub hits like it should now. Night and day difference so if you use high level inputs, that’s where you need to tap into for your input as in the front kicks, not the rear 4” pods. I also retested the fact that you need left and right inputs and that is true as well. If I disconnect one side, left or right, you lose volume on the sub. Hope this helps anyone that is adding an amp and sub. I went with the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 (all in one) if anyone is looking to add a sub and amp without taking up space to mount them separate. It has a quick disconnect harness so it can be removed if you need more space temporarily.
 
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VictoryLights

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Okay, just ran a few test wires to the front kick speakers and confirmed, the rear speakers have filters. The sub hits like it should now. Night and day difference so if you use high level inputs, that’s where you need to tap into for your input as in the front kicks, not the rear 4” pods. I also retested the fact that you need left and right inputs and that is true as well. If I disconnect one side, left or right, you lose volume on the sub. Hope this helps anyone that is adding an amp and sub. I went with the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 (all in one) if anyone is looking to add a sub and amp without taking up space to mount them separate. It has a quick disconnect harness so it can be removed if you need more space temporarily.
Nice!!

Can you explain or show pictures of how you ran the wires from the kick panel speakers to the sub?
 

da_jokker

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There are 2 questions in this post that I’m about to dig into this morning to solve for my own setup. 1. Do the rear speakers in the pods have filters on them as in limiting the sub output for the high level amp input (mine is currently wired this way in my Bronco and feel the sub is not producing like it should. Going to tap into the front kick panel speakers to see if it changes the output) and 2. Which I’ve already tested and yes you need both the left and right speaker inputs to a mono amp or you are selling yourself short on sound. I have both inputs hooked up now, and when I disconnect one, the sound drops by half on the sub. I’ll reply later this morning on the rear speaker filter issue once I rewire to the front kicks.
Yes it has been discussed that the head unit has been programmed to lower the output to the rear speakers. It takes the factory JBL sound bar and Forscan to remove this limitation. So everyone is suggesting you tap into the front lower kick panel.

In addition, honestly I'm confused about this, but all the factory 4" speakers have bass blockers. Not sure why you would need them in the back if the head unit has lowered the output but it is what it is.
 
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VictoryLights

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Yes it has been discussed that the head unit has been programmed to lower the output to the rear speakers. It takes the factory JBL sound bar and Forscan to remove this limitation. So everyone is suggesting you tap into the front lower kick panel.

In addition, honestly I'm confused about this, but all the factory 4" speakers have bass blockers. Not sure why you would need them in the bag if the head unit has lowered the output but it is what it is.
Probably just cheaper and easier to get all the same parts.
 
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VictoryLights

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I picked up this Infinity “hideaway” sub for a nice discount:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108BASSLMI/Infinity-BassLink-Mini.html

It will be close, but I think it will be able to fit under the drivers seat.

I was able to find that there is a potential pathway to run speaker wire from the passenger kick panel speaker over to the driver kick panel. Any thoughts on this?

7A1F9B39-60E6-443C-BB54-4F98AEE6ED83.jpeg
 

airstreamin

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Rus-T

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Nice!!

Can you explain or show pictures of how you ran the wires from the kick panel speakers to the sub?
I just unplugged the kickpanel speaker harness and tapped into the + and - and plugged it back in. Nothing special or difficult. I used this schematic for reference.

F1BF5FE4-882D-415D-828D-21215900A534.jpeg
 

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Who’s gonna be the one to crack the dash and see if the factory stereo has pre amps
These factory systems sadly don't have preamp outputs. The head unit IMHO is a total pain to access anyway. For the base audio, people have successfully run speaker level inputs by splicing into the kick panel speaker wires. The B&O system is a question mark because the kicks run off the amp in the rear, and because that system has a lot more processing than the base. I am going with Lux, so my initial interest is maximizing the quality of the system with speaker swap outs, rather than adding amps.
 

bigblueboing

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These factory systems sadly don't have preamp outputs. The head unit IMHO is a total pain to access anyway. For the base audio, people have successfully run speaker level inputs by splicing into the kick panel speaker wires. The B&O system is a question mark because the kicks run off the amp in the rear, and because that system has a lot more processing than the base. I am going with Lux, so my initial interest is maximizing the quality of the system with speaker swap outs, rather than adding amps.
No wonder crutchfield doesn’t have anything yet. All I want is a powered sub
 

kevin.gt

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da_jokker

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What I'm kind of hoping for is some sort of adaptive plug. Where I can unplug the wire harness from the back of the radio, plug some sort of splicer thing in and then run speaker wires (and remote?) from that to an amp to power a sub.

At that point maybe I would just disconnect the rear speakers from the head unit and hook those up to the amp to bypass the head units filtering for the rears.

Of course I'd lose front to rear fading.
 

Area51Ma

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That little Kenwood set up does pack a great punch for a little amount of $ .. used it in a couple jeeps ... pretty solid ... where do they have your crossover point set up..I would guess between 60 and 80..?
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