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Rolandfj40

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How are those bass blockers installed on a speaker?
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jh3113

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Awesome! Great write up!
 

Thiskers

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Would those kicker speakers be recommended for someone who wants to just change the front and pods? I probably will still with the B&O sub but wouldn't mind changing out the speakers since that wouldn't be that costly or difficult. Would the bass blockers be recommended in that situation as well?
 

PghBronco

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to each their own... I'm not a fan of that stinger system. but if it works for you (y)

Im confused to why you mounted the amp under the seat when the seat needs that space to fold flat..... AND you already had the rear trim removed mount it inside there? You drilled and tapped the rear gate which shows some sort of fabrication knowledge. take some 1/4 thick ABS make a bracket to mount and clean it up. My sub is inside that trim, i ran the wires under that slim transfer panel (between the rear seats and rear floor)
 

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67BroncoG1

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to each their own... I'm not a fan of that stinger system. but if it works for you (y)

Im confused to why you mounted the amp under the seat when the seat needs that space to fold flat..... AND you already had the rear trim removed mount it inside there? You drilled and tapped the rear gate which shows some sort of fabrication knowledge. take some 1/4 thick ABS make a bracket to mount and clean it up. My sub is inside that trim, i ran the wires under that slim transfer panel (between the rear seats and rear floor)
Did you mount the sub in the factory location? What did you use?
 

Karl_in_Chicago

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Thank you for such a great detailed write up/video. I know that took you some time and we DIY'ers appreciate it.

I also did an upgrade to my BB with the base audio system. I did not want booming base, so I went with a Kicker powered sub along with all four 4" speakers replaced. I left the 6.5's from the factory. I have a 2 door and placed the sub behind the passenger side back panel over the rear wheel. It fit just fine. I also used forscan to get a flat EQ signal to the rear speakers. The new system is exactly what I was looking for. I am in my mid 50's and don't want a screaming system. However, the stock one was just so flat and boring. I used Crutchfield, so install was super easy.
Which model Kicker powered sub did you install? Glad to hear there's one that fits relatively painlessly.
 

72F262

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Nice! Sounds like a solid audio upgrade for even less $$!! I was thinking about going that route, but I guess I was scared to mess with the settings using forscan, especially after going through 4.5 months of no sound or screen at all from the sync4 module failure. I was also looking at getting that powered kicker sub in the back panel, but didn't see any videos on how it was securely mounted in there. (and I thought the side panel might vibrate too much).
Which model Kicker powered sub did you install? Glad to hear there's one that fits relatively painlessly.
I got this one:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html
 

tblock

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I have owned 2 of those kicker powered amps. Neither lasted more than a year... They overheat and melt circuits... Had better luck with Cerwin Vega powered sub
 
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PartyMarty

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to each their own... I'm not a fan of that stinger system. but if it works for you (y)

Im confused to why you mounted the amp under the seat when the seat needs that space to fold flat..... AND you already had the rear trim removed mount it inside there? You drilled and tapped the rear gate which shows some sort of fabrication knowledge. take some 1/4 thick ABS make a bracket to mount and clean it up. My sub is inside that trim, i ran the wires under that slim transfer panel (between the rear seats and rear floor)
I was thinking about that, but
1. I didn't have spare plastic for mounting (but plenty of zip ties!).
2. The speaker wire kit i bought barely had enough wire to get to the location I mounted it in, and was just short of where I wanted it to go if back in the passenger side rear trim (17 feet bent around really doesn't get you that far...)
3. I still want easy access to adjust gain/bass settings on the amplifier itself (ex. I dig the subsonic frequencies, but my wife does not, it's a simple knob turn when she hops in for a trip).
4. Zip ties are easier than fabricating more plastic and drilling.
5. The seat still folds easily all the way down with no interference and the sub is still above the floor level by about an inch when fully folded. I have mounted in the forward part of the seat location, maybe only covered by 4 inches, and as I mentioned, I left slack in my power and signal wires so that the amp can freely move forward and back with the seat.

Also, as I mentioned, in retrospect, removing the entire side rear trim was unnecessary, when all I needed to do was pop out a few of the top clips just enough to drop the thin speaker wire through to be hidden.
 
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PartyMarty

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How are those bass blockers installed on a speaker?
Inline on the positive wire to the speaker. I just crimped some splice connectors for the wiring connections.
 
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Would those kicker speakers be recommended for someone who wants to just change the front and pods? I probably will still with the B&O sub but wouldn't mind changing out the speakers since that wouldn't be that costly or difficult. Would the bass blockers be recommended in that situation as well?
I haven't looked into the B&O wiring set up, but from what I remember at the offrodeo, the lux sound system was pretty decent for me (but then again, I didn't try it out with the top down at 70 mph, haha). If the kick panel and dash speakers are wired in series, then yeah, you'd want the bass blockers for the dash speakers so the bass is sent to the kick panels. I do remember adding the 4" kickers initially in the dash made a difference in loudness immediately.
 

Hotpantz

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Thanks for the write-up, I'm wanting to add a key200 soon. I'm assuming I will want to add a sub in the near future, so should I go a head with the kit #12 to make installation easier down the road? I was going to order the amp and harness from plug and play.
 

mikec426

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About those bass blockers… I’ve read several threads where people have installed them. I assume their function is literal so why would you only want treble from the forward speakers? Why not have speakers that are rated to handle what your system puts out?

Just curious. Thanks.
 

Karl_in_Chicago

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About those bass blockers… I’ve read several threads where people have installed them. I assume their function is literal so why would you only want treble from the forward speakers? Why not have speakers that are rated to handle what your system puts out?

Just curious. Thanks.
Physics. Sound is waves. Waves have size. The size of the waves that speakers can *properly* reproduce is directly related to their size. There's a reason you don't see any 4" subwoofers on the market and you can't (easily) fit a speaker capable of reproducing that low end in the dash. There's a WEALTH of info out there, independent of anything to do with Bronco's or even *car* audio, if you want to know more about it but the short story is size and space.
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