I seem to recall seeing those instructions printouts posted in here at some point. And now that I'm looking to do my install they are gone. Did somebody get a takedown notice?
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Here's my build for my 2dr basesquatch that I hope I will see delivery in Feb. I have started picking up a few things now in anticipation of a sub-par sound system:
Dash & Rear pods: (4) Kicker 47KSC404. I compared the KS vs. CS and decided on KS based on some of the previous conversations. Coaxial speakers, silk tweeter. Will probably install the rear pod speakers for now, hoping to unlock them eventually when we figure it out.
Door speakers: debating between 47KSC6704 (6.75") vs. 47KSC6504 (6.5")? I believe a few folks have installed Kicker's.. If so, did you need any mounting adapters in order to fit the factory holes? Crutchfield says 6.75" fits, seems like most everyone has used 6.5"...are they more or less interchangeable for doors, or does either require an adapter? I'm more curious which Kicker speaker/size requires mounting adapters on-hand before I tear down the doors? I don't mind cutting a speaker tab or two when I get there..
For those running amps on the front speakers: How are you discreetly amplifying the dash vs. door speakers w/ a 4 channel amp? As far as I've read, the dash are piggybacked onto the doors, wouldn't you need to disconnect that first to discreetly wire to the dash? Or is everyone directly wiring from amp to dash speakers to bypass the 'piggyback'?
Amp: I've already purchased the Key 200.4.. Thinking I might use 2 channels for the front (dash + doors) and eventually the other 2 channels for the Rear pods once we figure out how to enable the low frequencies via Forscan.
For my sub, I'm going with the Crutchfield / Sound Ordnance B-8PTD. Have this now in my F150 and it provides a substantial 'bump' for what my music tastes. Good price point and a small profile. My current one has been going strong now for over 10yrs.
I plan to make or purchase a 'loopback' harness that will power the amp and directly feed the speakers via the Key200.4. Did this previously with a similar Alpine amp in my F150 and it came in handy when I decided to swap out the head unit and remove the ampā¦it was just an unplug job vs. a rewire job.
I think itās massively improved. I went with Memphis MJP6 and switched the signal to full speaker. Turned the rear gain up a few notches on the Kicker Key and now the soundscape is full and rounded out.Anyone who's upgraded to the matbett or whatever 6.5 inch roll bar speakers cage. How much of a difference has that made for you over the 4 inch speakers up there.
Just installed the new 4" on my rears today. Might have to pull that shit out and pull the trigger on some bigger speakers!I think itās massively improved. I went with Memphis MJP6 and switched the signal to full speaker. Turned the rear gain up a few notches on the Kicker Key and now the soundscape is full and rounded out.
@plugnplaykits probably has one or can fabricate one. I know there's some voodoo around dealing with an existing amp in there, so @RagnarKon might have to chime in as well.Hey first post. Iām sure the answer is probably in the thread but my brain hurts from trying to learn all the new vehicle stuff.
I did not see it on plug-in play site, but does anyone sell a pigtail for adding an aftermarket amp?
Itās a 23 model and it does have the factory sub thatās active
Iām just adding a 6.75 to the factory location, but Iām swapping the factory amp to a small NVX amp
If we ever go to Cell?, I figured it be nice to have everything that can go backstock with no trace of a previous install
Since it has the factory amp, is there anything unusual about the wiring I would need to know about?
I assume thereās 12 V switched power but I could see with the factory set up how that could be different.
I am running a new power wire from the battery and a thicker ground if needed.