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Base Sound System Upgrade/Build

Brock9281

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I'm planning to get the 4 door obx base stereo, 6.5 component set in front with German maestro or hybrid audio speakers. Running active (no passive crossover), audio control amps with built in dsp, one ten inch sub. Maybe get better pods for rear speakers. I like stealth setups and finding space for the sub will be tricky since the back seats move down as they fold down.
Did you get this installed?
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Scotteasymoney

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On my 21 with the base sound system, I went a mostly different direction then everyone else, Did some playing around with stuff I had laying around to see what worked for locations and forscan settings until I found something that worked without having to tap into the front at all.

The only change I made in Forscan was to ACM 727-01-02, (ACM 727-01-01 Didn't seem to help anything)

Changed 'xxx* xxxx xxxx' to a 0 from a 1, Confirmed this works by playing 40, 60, and 200hz test tones.

Replaced the four 4" speakers with Rockford Fosgate R14X2. Huge improvement in Clarity, these are still in the dash locations.

Tried a set of Rockford Fosgate R1675X2 in the Kick Panels, They sounded worse than the stock ones, so I stuck with stock there.

Now with full range in the back, It seemed pretty obvious to me there just isn't enough speaker in the back and the 4" were not gonna cut it.

Had a Sony Xplod 10" in a box, a Dual Amp, And a Couple Kenwood Coaxial 6x9"s in Metra Boxes that weren't currently being used, so I tapped into the rear channels and tied all that in. It was a revelation in sound, But I was still experimenting at this point, The Dual amp is crap, and would distort the mids and highs at higher volumes, The Sony box was too Big, and there was no practical way to mount the Metra boxes for good stereo imaging to the front.

Yesterday I put in my final solution;

R.F. R14X2 4" in dash (Saw no need to do more than this in the front) $69, Crutchfield
Kenwood KAC-314 (Nice, Small Class D 4 channel amp that fits in the left side quarter panel pocket) $199, Best Buy
Rockville RWB65B Wakeboard Speakers (A Buddy has a set of these in his Wheeling YJ, And they sound great there, I'm surprised I don't see more people here going with Wakeboard Speakers) $125, direct from Rockville Audio
Pyle PT8B (Inexpensive 8" sub That's not huge) $58, Amazon

I Used the brackets from the original speakers pods to put a 1" Structural steel tube across behind the rear roll bar crossover, And then mounted the Rockvilles to that.

I hooked the Rockvilles to Amplifier A in the Kenwood, and bridged the Pyle on Amplifier B.

Tuned the Pyle's bass/sub gain (Called Input Sensitivity on Kenwoods) with a 40HZ tone at 25 on the head unit

Tuned the Rockville's gain by ear with Boston, "More Than a Feeling" at 20 on the head unit

I'm really satisfied with how this setup worked out I can run the system up to beyond where it's comfortable to listen too with no distortion, and I have awesome clarity with no distortion, Bass response will shake the truck.

This has moved the sound stage to around the middle of the truck, If I find I don't like that, I may add a 2 Channel amp in the front to move the sound stage forward.

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You beat me to doing the rear pods. I have the 4" Rockford Fosgate Prime series in the dash,6.75 power series in the kick panel. Still stock 4" in the read due to wanting to do the 6.5/6.75 tower pods. I have the Kicker key 200.4 for the speakers and the kicker cxa800.1 for a borrowed no name sub till I decided I want a down firing or gate mounted box. It all sounds phenomenal.
 

zuke

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You beat me to doing the rear pods. I have the 4" Rockford Fosgate Prime series in the dash,6.75 power series in the kick panel. Still stock 4" in the read due to wanting to do the 6.5/6.75 tower pods. I have the Kicker key 200.4 for the speakers and the kicker cxa800.1 for a borrowed no name sub till I decided I want a down firing or gate mounted box. It all sounds phenomenal.
I'm definitely thinking I need to do something similar in the front, While the rear sounds great, bringing the front in for volumes over 20 really starts to sound rough in the mid ranges.... Should have went with something closer to where you're headed.
 

Inigo Montoya

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For those of you who installed a subwoofer, and connected into both kick panel speakers…
How did you cleanly wire your split from the front passenger kick speaker, back over to the drivers side? Thanks ahead of time!
I ran it under the glove box using 3M VHB tape and through the front portion of the center console. I’m lazy and that required the least amount of popping plastic trim panels. There was a hairy point where you do have to flex back the lower center console panels on either side to snake the wire through. If you use a wire coat hanger and make a small loop on the end, though, it makes it a lot easier to thread the gap. Repeat with the VHB tape under the driver side kick panel and down into the same panel as the driver-side 6.5”. My amp is in the trunk so I had to repeat for the inputs - don’t forget or you will lament having to pull trim panels twice. Hopefully the setup will make it a heck of lot easier to add tower speakers in the future, which was my goal. I have had no issues the last 3 months.
 

Ohhellothere

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Pardon the posting this on two threads but they both seem like the most active and I figure I am not alone on this one.
I ordered the Kicker 46CSC44 but having buyers remorse that I should've gone with the Kicker 47KSC404, the Alpine S-S40 or the Infinity Reference REF-4032cfx.

Should I be rightly worried or close my laptop and go install them?
 

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zuke

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Pardon the posting this on two threads but they both seem like the most active and I figure I am not alone on this one.
I ordered the Kicker 46CSC44 but having buyers remorse that I should've gone with the Kicker 47KSC404, the Alpine S-S40 or the Infinity Reference REF-4032cfx.

Should I be rightly worried or close my laptop and go install them?

Either one is a big improvement over the factory speaker... but if you're going to add an Amp later, it won't be hard to overdrive the 46CSC44. My take; If your just looking for the clarity improvements, Close the laptop and go put them in then enjoy them ;)
 

kevin.gt

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I just installed kicker ks 4” in the dash. Decent improvement in the vocals and highs. Midbass still muddy. I have the highs turned up a little in the head unit. I guess I need a dsp. Is that the general consensus? Kicker key 200.4? Anyone try the passive 47KEYLOC?

Edit: I see the 47keyloc is a line level converter; nevermind
 
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cmcbronco

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I just installed kicker ks 4” in the dash. Decent improvement in the vocals and highs. Midbass still muddy. I have the highs turned up a little in the head unit. I guess I need a dsp. Is that the general consensus? Kicker key 200.4? Anyone try the passive 47KEYLOC?
Did you add bass blockers up front?
 

Ohhellothere

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Either one is a big improvement over the factory speaker... but if you're going to add an Amp later, it won't be hard to overdrive the 46CSC44. My take; If your just looking for the clarity improvements, Close the laptop and go put them in then enjoy them ;)
no amp for me most likely i guess i have a task for a night this week. cheers!
 

kevin.gt

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Did you add bass blockers up front?
I did not but have a hard time believing that’s the issue. I’m talking (what I think is) 200-400hz range bass guitar, not deep hard hitting bass. It’s not distorted or rattling. Just a little muddy.
 

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cmcbronco

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I did not but have a hard time believing that’s the issue. I’m talking (what I think is) 200-400hz range bass guitar, not deep hard hitting bass. It’s not distorted or rattling. Just a little muddy.
I think it would probably help. But if you want the best sound you can get I would definitely get the key 200.4. It really is worth the money…had my top off this weekend and had more than enough sound at 12-14 volume range.
 

kevin.gt

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I think it would probably help. But if you want the best sound you can get I would definitely get the key 200.4. It really is worth the money…had my top off this weekend and had more than enough sound at 12-14 volume range.
Cool. I’ll start with the blockers since they are so cheap but expecting to need the kicker key. I appreciate the input
 

Synyster06Gates

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Just got this combo installed the other day and man what a difference! I had already swapped all the 4” speakers with Kenwoods and the 6.5” with the Morrell Maximo off crutchfield. Whole system sounds fantastic now IMO.
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Where did you put your amp? I have the same setup going in but using my old CXA600.1
 

MBPhotos

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Where did you put your amp? I have the same setup going in but using my old CXA600.1
I had them attach it behind the rear seat to the ford metal cargo enclosure, but just mounting to the back of the back seat would work great too!
 

Synyster06Gates

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I had them attach it behind the rear seat to the ford metal cargo enclosure, but just mounting to the back of the back seat would work great too!
Do you have the MGV/rubber flooring? If so - does the seat back have carpet material or is it MGV all over?
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