Never would have thought I would buy such a thing, but this may need to happen...I can save you some time...
How do you deal with the fact that the switch interacts with the 12 volt system of the vehicle? I had visions in my head of resistors to bring down the voltage and whatever relays and fuses were necessary to keep the vehicle from frying the opener.(i) open the remote's case
(ii) solder wires to the terminals on both sides of the momentary microswitch that is depressed when you push the opener's button
(iii) run the wires to the aux switch of choice
(iv) stash the reassembled remote somewhere on the vehicle where it's out of the way, but you can get access every few years to change the battery.
BTDT -- not hard, just tedious if you would prefer to not destroy the remote case. Preferably done with a low-power soldering iron with a pencil tip to minimize heating of the remote's circuit board.
You don’t supply voltage from the upfitter switch to the remote as implied. You would wire in a relay to connect the GDO remote’s switch input/output.How do you deal with the fact that the switch interacts with the 12 volt system of the vehicle? I had visions in my head of resistors to bring down the voltage and whatever relays and fuses were necessary to keep the vehicle from frying the opener.
Thank you for posting this -- it is precisely what I was about to say. I'll edit my post to refer to this one.You don’t supply voltage from the upfitter switch to the remote as implied. You would wire in a relay to connect the GDO remote’s switch input/output.
#85 = positive input from upfitter switch
#86 = ground
#87 = “output” side of GDO remote’s switch
#30 = “input” side of GDO remote’s switch
- need very low amperage to trigger this relay.
- 85 & 86 can be reversed with no adverse results
- 87 & 30 can be reversed with no adverse results
Seriously? Polite horns? That’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard of. The factory horn IS the “polite” horn.I've heard of people doing 'polite horns' that do a quick 'ahem' honk instead of the standard honk, if you just need to catch someone's attention quickly.
Sooooo, can I use two of the auxiliary switches to operate the winch? One to power on and another to power in and out? Forgive me, I get very confused when talking about amps and volts and relays and watts and draws etc....That is not powering the winch (I hope) that is controlling the winch solenoid. Winches draw way to much current to run through a normal switch. You are likely energizing the solenoid and the other other switch is flipping the polarity to go in or out
I do recall something similar. Most likely the Ford switches are standard and not momentary though.Does anyone know if Ford's factory Aux switches can be set to latching or momentary, depending on your needs? If not, I'm assuming they are latching?
I recently saw a video of someone wiring up some rock lights to a Gladiator. I was amazed when they went into a settings menu on the center touchscreen and could configure each switch to momentary/latching and ignition/battery.