DONE! I have re-drilled rear shock mount 2” higher, =more clearance and 2” lift.

[MaverickMan]

Here's a pic of the idea so folks don't need to climb under to see.

Im sure you know this but to do this properly you may have to use a spacer on the inside of the bracket to make up for the dimple. I would personally fab up a cupthat fits inside the bracket that comes below the bushing and bridges both sides together. Then mocked up with a bolt weld the exposed edges together in a manner that is easily grindable to remove later if desired. This would increase the rip-out strength. As it is it looks like enough of a bottoming out hit on a well broken in bushing years from no could rip through that half inch of metal below the bolt hole.

I really see this as being a popular budget upgrade on non HOSS Broncos. A nice kit would be a weld-in(optional) cup and cutting template for the rear with a front spacer or squatch takeoff. Could get a good 2.5"R/2.2"F lift for a killer raked stance. I would love to see a Black Diamond on stock steel wheels and 36x13.50x17 Super Swamper Irok Bias tires. You could have the the lift kit and the tires for less than $2000. Add in the $3000 to upgrade to the front 210. You have a serious self-squatch on your hands. Only thing you would miss is the resivoir shocks.

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[Aonarch]

This is why I don't buy modified vehicles used.

 

[goatman2]

This is why I don't buy modified vehicles used.

Unless you want a modified used vehicle. Not too many stock Jeeps out there to buy, but most people buying a used Jeep want one that has already been modified. Buying an already modified Jeep is cheaper than buying one and modifying it yourself. Just taking issue with your comment, what's your point?

 

[AaronW]

Here's a pic of the idea so folks don't need to climb under to see.

It would be better to create new shock mounts that have more meat to them than cutting down what is there.

I do agree with you that this needs to be move higher up on the axle. Also need to have someone create skid plates for the front IFS bolts. Ridiculous that they are installed facing down.

 

[AaronW]

Im sure you know this but to do this properly you may have to use a spacer on the inside of the bracket to make up for the dimple. I would personally fab up a cupthat fits inside the bracket that comes below the bushing and bridges both sides together. Then mocked up with a bolt weld the exposed edges together in a manner that is easily grindable to remove later if desired. This would increase the rip-out strength. As it is it looks like enough of a bottoming out hit on a well broken in bushing years from no could rip through that half inch of metal below the bolt hole.

I really see this as being a popular budget upgrade on non HOSS Broncos. A nice kit would be a weld-in(optional) cup and cutting template for the rear with a front spacer or squatch takeoff. Could get a good 2.5"R/2.2"F lift for a killer raked stance. I would love to see a Black Diamond on stock steel wheels and 36x13.50x17 Super Swamper Irok Bias tires. You could have the the lift kit and the tires for less than $2000. Add in the $3000 to upgrade to the front 210. You have a serious self-squatch on your hands. Only thing you would miss is the resivoir shocks.

I think everyone is getting confused on what the topic is. This isn’t about lifting the rig but removing potential low spots in the suspension. The positive is a 2.5” lift in the rear.

 

[noliveaxle]

Unless you want a modified used vehicle. Not too many stock Jeeps out there to buy, but most people buying a used Jeep want one that has already been modified. Buying an already modified Jeep is cheaper than buying one and modifying it yourself. Just taking issue with your comment, what's your point?

I’m thinking modified to him is cut up and welded on. I’m sure any bolt on lifts and modifications would be okay. I would crawl under to see what was done. Right or wrong. He may not be up to or down for that.

 

[goatman2]

I think everyone is getting confused on what the topic is. This isn’t about lifting the rig but removing potential low spots in the suspension. The positive is a 2.5” lift in the rear.

I think it's clearly both equally. Which is totally fine to me. But yes, getting a lift and getting better ground clearance.

 

[MaverickMan]

I think everyone is getting confused on what the topic is. This isn’t about lifting the rig but removing potential low spots in the suspension. The positive is a 2.5” lift in the rear.

To me it would be both. A 2.5" lift and +1" clearancing, plus tire clearance. On a BD going from 32" to 36" I would call that adding 3" of axle ground clearance and 5.5" of belly clearance. Helluva thing for a simple metal mod.

Wouldnt it be awesome if someone figured out a way to move the whole front end down 2" aswell with minor tweaking!

 

[StyleGuy]

Won't this change the driveshaft pinion angle?

Problems like this is why I went with the factory sasquatch package. It rides and drives so good I don't want to mess with it. I have friends with Jeeps that lift them and then are unhappy with how they perform. They are constantly trying to improve the lift. Incorrect pinion angles can lead to premature wear and vibrations.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Won't this change the driveshaft pinion angle?

Problems like this is why I went with the factory sasquatch package. It rides and drives so good I don't want to mess with it. I have friends with Jeeps that lift them and then are unhappy with how they perform. They are constantly trying to improve the lift. Incorrect pinion angles can lead to premature wear and vibrations.

This won't change the angle any more than any other 2.5” lift on a SAS. These CV driveline DO handle steep angles alot better than old U-joints...especially under load.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Here's a pic of the idea so folks don't need to climb under to see.

I do support the theory behind this idea, but I really don't like the idea of keeping that bracket due to it's forming. The best way to do this would be new brackets. Something like this. Goes for about $60.

 

[4XMORE]

good luck breaking the rear shock bolt its a large mutha...took 2 of us and an extended handle to get it free....not sure 2.5 inch is gonna work best but seems like a reasonable mod maybe 1.5 or so im thinking.... don't cut the left over hang down off till your sure its a good fit.

You need to get a torque multiplier. Once you get one it’s an easy removal and install. That bolt is set at 350 ft/lbs and should be re-torqued after the install.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I'm not talking about effecting wheel travel. I'm asking if the bottom of the shock is moved up 2.5" relative to the axle, will that change how the rear suspension bottoms? Some shocks are designed to be the bottoming resistance, but typically you'll find bump stops. I would assume the Bronco uses bump stops, so I'd would check the shock has ~2.75" of uptravel left when the axle hits the bump stop. If not, don't move the shock lower mount up. Not 2.5" anyways.

No change, the bump stops are built into the shocks ...

 

[M Redwood]

did you ever complete this? pics? how did it work

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

did you ever complete this? pics? how did it work

Not yet ,I'm waiting on more front end parts to raise it up to match, (just received front diff-drop kit today) I don't wanna drive around with the ass end sticking up while I'm waiting to finish the front...

I'll likely only go 1.5” on the rear mount as that will be enough fender clearance for 38s and I don't really want it much higher. I'll update this weekend.

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