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- Sheri
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Don't most filters work better as they start to get dirty?
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Hey, good luck with your K&N. I suggest running an outerwears and a foam prefilter between them at the very least if you're planning on taking it anywhere there's sand or dirt. The outerwears knocks out a lot of the larger particles but becomes very restrictive if it gets oily, hence the need for the foam prefilter, which doubles as a prefilter for the K&N. I was never able to get it up to adequate filtration standards, and it seemed like every weekend run or race I'd have to clean them all over again. Super restrictive when dirty, and as a result, if you keep running them dirty you'll get oily mud on your MAP sensor after your engine basically forces all that crud through the filter pleats. If I need to upgrade from OEM on any vehicle, a Walker Performance dry filter takes its place if at all possible.Nothing yet but I was thinking about making one since mine is a Surf Fishing/Beach/Dirt Backroads Bronco.
I am also considering getting the K&N Performance Air Intake to replace the OEM box.
That depends on what you quantify better as. As a filter becomes laden with particulates, some of the larger holes become blocked, forcing air to take a more indirect path around and through the media, allowing smaller particulates to become trapped as well. In this way, a filter works a little better when it's a little dirty. The problem with that is you're getting more filtration at the cost of airflow. A dirty filter is worse in regard to engine power and efficiency, and you start taking a flow rate hit the moment it starts filtering out particulates. So the answer is yes and no, I suppose.Don't most filters work better as they start to get dirty?
Thanks... The editing is a learning process. But it's great funGreat video. The translucent box cover to show how the indent holds the filter was an amazing graphic - thanks for taking the time to add that bit of detail.
I had a 2002 SVT Focus way back when...When I was growing up, my first car was a new '89 Mazda 323, next a '93 Nissan NX2000, and a '95 Civic Hatchback after that.....Even had a 2003 SVT Focus and '04 Ranger FX4 L2, wasn't until I had '16 Cadillac ATS-V that manufacturers starting requiring tools to remove and replace the engine air-filter, they used to just put metal flaps that you could flip over and flip back.
I think these greedy manufacturers think that if they make it some effort and have to grab a tool to change something as simple as an air filter, that people will just take it to the dealer. Same goes for the location for the oil filter.
I use a Uni Filter as a prefilter on my Tiger. But that's because the snorkle for the box was designed to let in sand, dirt, water, gnomes....Do you also use a prefilter?
I've used K&N forever on my bikes... But I don't think I'd do it with an offroader
Damn gnomes anyways....I use a Uni Filter as a prefilter on my Tiger. But that's because the snorkle for the box was designed to let in sand, dirt, water, gnomes....
haha i did the same thing.Big fan of your style, keep it up! Also this is wild I just replaced my engine and cabin air filter yesterday. After getting back from King of Hammers, very dusty.
You can also knock them off and use compressed air to clean them a couple of times.I keep a stack of paper OEM filters on my shelf, all it takes is a dusty road and your filter is needing a replacement. I had to replace my last one after only 5k miles roughly. As cool as K&N and other filter makers are, they are a big pain if you drive a lot of dusty roads, and the oiled ones clog up pretty fast in these environments.
Yeah I do this if I don't have a spare handy, but that super fine dust can still get in your engine, especially after you've been disturbing the dust by beating/blowing it out of the filter. Good stop gap measure though.You can also knock them off and use compressed air to clean them a couple of times.