Engine Changes

[Jake_zx2]

Man, I try not go past 50k miles on plugs with boosted engines. 100k shows how far we've come in a short amount of time.

Dude, I was gonna say, my RB eats plugs like a rotary eats apex seals! Lol

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[bbostic5]

Dude, I was gonna say, my RB eats plugs like a rotary eats apex seals! Lol

Shoot, I don't go past 5k on plugs with the rotary lol.

 

[Dirt]

Truth. We have trucks that sit mostly idle and roll slow around the ranch, rarely if ever reach highway speeds. Once a month I'll get in and goose the accelerator to clear it all out.

 

[Dads_bronze_bronco]

I would take a slower Manual Bronco for the extra pedal and engagement and satisfaction of rowing gears on my own. If I tow anything, it will likely be a very small trailer.

new auto transmissions have come a long way and in many cases are quicker than manuals, but they’re still missing a pedal.

I have an auto Camry hybrid for daily duty and its super comfortable and thoughtless to drive. I really like it, but it’s boring as hell.

I will only purchase a Bronco if it’s a manual. If it’s truly a Wrangler competitor, it WILL have a manual transmission option.

I am torn - never had anything but a manual and want the control BUT the clutch action on the JKUR is great in normal driving but catches and stalls when rock crawling. I read there is a way to start off in 1st in 4WL and left foot the brake to adjust speed which I’ll have to experiment with, but I have caught a lot of flack from my cousin stalling multiple times on even a simple obstacle when his auto Sahara just mushed its way over. Then there is towing - no difference in tow capacity on Wranglers, but definitely a blot less on a Gladiator. Plus pulling a boat out on the ramp is easier with an auto. (Sometimes I put it on 4WL on a steep ramp.)

Anyway, prefer a manual, but new autos have improved a lot, and in my experience may be more practical for intended usage.

Then again my wife and sons avoid driving my Rubicon because the manual is a pain, so ....

 

[bbostic5]

Smart man. I deleted my oil metering pump and just premix a shit ton. The GM coils are good, but I now use Iridium plugs and a CDI setup.

 

[Randy92Fox]

I am torn - never had anything but a manual and want the control BUT the clutch action on the JKUR is great in normal driving but catches and stalls when rock crawling. I read there is a way to start off in 1st in 4WL and left foot the brake to adjust speed which I’ll have to experiment with, but I have caught a lot of flack from my cousin stalling multiple times on even a simple obstacle when his auto Sahara just mushed its way over. Then there is towing - no difference in tow capacity on Wranglers, but definitely a blot less on a Gladiator. Plus pulling a boat out on the ramp is easier with an auto. (Sometimes I put it on 4WL on a steep ramp.)

Anyway, prefer a manual, but new autos have improved a lot, and in my experience may be more practical for intended usage.

Then again my wife and sons avoid driving my Rubicon because the manual is a pain, so ....

I have nothing to substantiate this but tow rating on the manual Jeeps is probably so low because it is a weak trans overall. Torque rating is only like 300 lb-ft by some accounts.

If the rumored Getrag is real then it is going to be a much stronger trans as the EcoBoost(s) produce wayyyy more torque wayyyy lower than the 3.6 or 3.8.

Also FWIW I had a 4x4 f150 4.6 V8 5 speed and the tow rating was 2500 lbs...rated for the limiting factor which was the clutch used in the trans.

 

[Adk_st]

To build on what Chrispy said...oil absolutely matters. Especially with turbocharged engines. Dino/conventional will overheat while cooling turbos. Synthetic MUST be run. You don't need any super fancy drag blend, but running the right weight for your use load is also important.

Ford added port injection to help try to combat the carbon buildup. From what I've heard it has helped. They're aware it can be an issue so I'll have to trust their engineers. They know better than I. My 2.0 di only ecoboost hasn't had an issue, but it also gets driven hard from time to time. 106k on the clock. No mechanical failures in the powertrain (knock on wood). Ny winters(road salt) have taken a toll on suspension components and body panels, but the engine and tranny have been solid.

 

[BroncoBuyer]

That would be a liability on Frams part if they claim to have an exact cross filter that does not meet or exceed manufacturers specs.


Never would I run incorrect octane fuel. That would be idiotic.
I never said for anybody to do that.
If your car requires super unleaded then you must run super unleaded that’s a no brainer.


As I said, I have seen plenty of ”contaminated” fuel myself.
Never have I seen it come out of a gas pump. Did you ask your customers did they fill up at the job site out of a rusty Jerry can? Or did you assume that they went to the wrong gas station?
My point was that all gas stations are selling the same fuel’s. It doesn’t matter how much you spend on it.




Again maybe im being misunderstood but I would never say to use gear lube in your engine! Oil is oil! Lol!!
Of course if your 2007 and newer diesel truck requires CJ4 spec oil in a 15w40 weight you would obviously use exactly that.
My point earlier was that to use a full synthetic or an expensive brand name like mobile 1 is pointless Unless your manual is requiring a full synthetic Mobil one branded oil in writing.



Not sure about your dealership but the dealerships in Phoenix are all puppy mills running kids in and out it’s like a revolving door. not a one of them know what the hell they’re doing so to say you work on so many trucks just doesn’t impress me when I’m out here in the field and I see The trucks for more than a couple hours Up on a hoist. My guys and myself live in our trucks for hundreds of thousands of miles and know exactly what failures have and have not occurred.
Sure we may be 5 years behind what your seeing. But you must admit that your techs have no idea what a certain driver may have done or not done to cause a problem unless they were sitting in the seat next to them.
I can name countless times I’ve been blamed for something I never did to cause a truck failure.



again different topic. I am a proponent for following maintenance guidelines. I would never advise for anybody to not follow maintenance guidelines At least as often as the manufacturer recommends if not more often.

I just recalled that my old man used to mention something like that to me when I was a little kid.
He would floor his truck every once in a while when we would be driving he would say “that’s how you clean out them valves boy!”
I’ve never driven around town like a little old lady in anything so therefore I have no experience with what happens to an engine when driving it lightly so I won’t comment on that.

 

[Jalisurr]

That would be a liability on Frams part if they claim to have an exact cross filter that does not meet or exceed manufacturers specs.




Never would I run incorrect octane fuel. That would be idiotic.
I never said for anybody to do that.
If your car requires super unleaded then you must run super unleaded that’s a no brainer.




As I said, I have seen plenty of ”contaminated” fuel myself.
Never have I seen it come out of a gas pump. Did you ask your customers did they fill up at the job site out of a rusty Jerry can? Or did you assume that they went to the wrong gas station?
My point was that all gas stations are selling the same fuel’s. It doesn’t matter how much you spend on it.






Again maybe im being misunderstood but I would never say to use gear lube in your engine! Oil is oil! Lol!!
Of course if your 2007 and newer diesel truck requires CJ4 spec oil in a 15w40 weight you would obviously use exactly that.
My point earlier was that to use a full synthetic or an expensive brand name like mobile 1 is pointless Unless your manual is requiring a full synthetic Mobil one branded oil in writing.





Not sure about your dealership but the dealerships in Phoenix are all puppy mills running kids in and out it’s like a revolving door. not a one of them know what the hell they’re doing so to say you work on so many trucks just doesn’t impress me when I’m out here in the field and I see The trucks for more than a couple hours Up on a hoist. My guys and myself live in our trucks for hundreds of thousands of miles and know exactly what failures have and have not occurred.
Sure we may be 5 years behind what your seeing. But you must admit that your techs have no idea what a certain driver may have done or not done to cause a problem unless they were sitting in the seat next to them.
I can name countless times I’ve been blamed for something I never did to cause a truck failure.





again different topic. I am a proponent for following maintenance guidelines. I would never advise for anybody to not follow maintenance guidelines At least as often as the manufacturer recommends if not more often.



I just recalled that my old man used to mention something like that to me when I was a little kid.
He would floor his truck every once in a while when we would be driving he would say “that’s how you clean out them valves boy!”
I’ve never driven around town like a little old lady in anything so therefore I have no experience with what happens to an engine when driving it lightly so I won’t comment on that.

I think if I understand what you're saying it's basically that you just need to do exactly what your owner's manual says for maintenance and you'll be fine. No more, no less. If so, I agree. The manufacturer will tell you to use a certain kind of oil for a reason, but any aftermarket company that is telling you their oil will protect your engine better is just marketing.

 

[BroncoBuyer]

I think if I understand what you're saying it's basically that you just need to do exactly what your owner's manual says for maintenance and you'll be fine. No more, no less. If so, I agree. The manufacturer will tell you to use a certain kind of oil for a reason, but any aftermarket company that is telling you their oil will protect your engine better is just marketing.

yes exactly. That and going to chevron And spending money on surpreme gas with “techrolene” when your car only calls for 87 octane is also a waste.
Exceptions to the rule are if you have modifications like tuners that recommend premium unleaded.

I found throughout my entire life that every time I do mods, it causes me headaches. I don’t do any mods to any of my vehicles. I leave it to engineers who get paid to design vehicles for the best performance and reliability.
I’m sure that’s partly the reason my vehicles last me so much longer than a person who puts a tuner, exhaust and K&N air filter on his car.

 

[JimmyDean]

yes exactly. That and going to chevron And spending money on surpreme gas with “techrolene” when your car only calls for 87 octane is also a waste.
Exceptions to the rule are if you have modifications like tuners that recommend premium unleaded.

I found throughout my entire life that every time I do mods, it causes me headaches. I don’t do any mods to any of my vehicles. I leave it to engineers who get paid to design vehicles for the best performance and reliability.
I’m sure that’s partly the reason my vehicles last me so much longer than a person who puts a tuner, exhaust and K&N air filter on his car.

going with higher than recommended octane has a larger potential to hurt then engine, typically through inefficient combustion as the pressures and temps to efficiently burn the longer hydrocarbon molecules isn't there.

It would actually be an amazing feat if someone could develop a fuel delivery system to mix high and low octane fuels on turbo'd engines with varying overall octane numbers based off of demand/best efficiency or best power as selected. But right now you run the highest possible needed octane even when you are cruising at low RPM low/no boost. granted modern systems can make up some of this difference with variable cam timing, direct injection controlling precise fuel delivery volume and timings.

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