Engine Changes

[chtucker]

I’ve driven DOZENS of trucks very hard and heavily loaded over the years probably 2 million plus miles. I’m a Field service heavy equipment machanic with over 30 years experience.
Things I hear over and over but have never experienced In my life are the following..
The mythical “crappy oil”. Been using Dino oil out of drums, what ever is available at the shop. Never had an engine failure due to oil.
Crappy filters. Have used Napa. Donaldson, Baldwin etc. whatever the current employer buys for oil filters.. Never an oil filter related failure.

Only “AIR” filter EVER to cause a problem was a religiously cleaned and serviced K&N filter. Total crap. Gummed up a throttle body and intake. K&N is total garbage and let’s too much road grime in. Ran one on a 1997 454V8 3500HD for 89k miles and it made a mess of my intake before I realized it was the problem.

Not running hard enough? Never heard that one before.

my biggest pet peave is when somebody blames “crappy fuel”.
I would really like to know where one finds crappy fuel?
I’ve ran Only 87 octane fuel in anything that only required 87 octane fuel and have never had a fuel related issue other than maybe a dozen or so fuel pumps in mostly chevys.
Did I only run crappy fuel in my chevys and not in the Fords and Dodges? Nope. Same fuel. Chevys just had inferior fuel pumps plain and simple.

On the other hand. At Job sites, crappy fuel issues are real! Guys on job sites reuse 5 gallon jugs, buckets, barrels etc.. they have missing vent caps, fuel caps, dirty funnels you name it. Job site dust gets in the containers as well as rain water. I see crappy fuel issues on job sites constantly.. clogged filters full of dirt, clogged pick up tubes with leafs or bugs, water separators full of water etc... I have NEVER seen a crappy fuel issue from a vehicle that gets its fuel straight from a gas station pump.

I have no personal experience with the 3.5 and as a matter of fact, never even drove one before. What I do know is that If the 3.5 is so sensitive to these factors yet no other engine is, maybe the 3.5 is the problem. It’s always easier to chalk some issues up to “operator error” But if the problem persists with one engine and not “one person” it seems to me the blame should be pointed elsewhere.

I by the running hard thing.. Get into the boat outboard field and the biggest killer is not getting them hot enough/running them hard. motors that get used and run close to WOT for a bit every time out last FAR those that idle/lug around all day.

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[BroncoBuyer]

I by the running hard thing.. Get into the boat outboard field and the biggest killer is not getting them hot enough/running them hard. motors that get used and run close to WOT for a bit every time out last FAR those that idle/lug around all day.

Every engine that is ran for more time at optimum operating temperature will last longer than one that does not.
If your commute is two miles each way twice daily you won’t get near as many miles out of that engine as one that is ran once a week for 20 miles.

Edit:
I might add, Short commutes are another cause for people to blame “crappy oil” when they have oil sludge issues.

 

[FirstOnRaceDay]

I’ve driven DOZENS of trucks very hard and heavily loaded over the years probably 2 million plus miles. I’m a Field service heavy equipment machanic with over 30 years experience.
Things I hear over and over but have never experienced In my life are the following..
The mythical “crappy oil”. Been using Dino oil out of drums, what ever is available at the shop. Never had an engine failure due to oil.
Crappy filters. Have used Napa. Donaldson, Baldwin etc. whatever the current employer buys for oil filters.. Never an oil filter related failure.

Only “AIR” filter EVER to cause a problem was a religiously cleaned and serviced K&N filter. Total crap. Gummed up a throttle body and intake. K&N is total garbage and let’s too much road grime in. Ran one on a 1997 454V8 3500HD for 89k miles and it made a mess of my intake before I realized it was the problem.

Not running hard enough? Never heard that one before.

my biggest pet peave is when somebody blames “crappy fuel”.
I would really like to know where one finds crappy fuel?
I’ve ran Only 87 octane fuel in anything that only required 87 octane fuel and have never had a fuel related issue other than maybe a dozen or so fuel pumps in mostly chevys.
Did I only run crappy fuel in my chevys and not in the Fords and Dodges? Nope. Same fuel. Chevys just had inferior fuel pumps plain and simple.

On the other hand. At Job sites, crappy fuel issues are real! Guys on job sites reuse 5 gallon jugs, buckets, barrels etc.. they have missing vent caps, fuel caps, dirty funnels you name it. Job site dust gets in the containers as well as rain water. I see crappy fuel issues on job sites constantly.. clogged filters full of dirt, clogged pick up tubes with leafs or bugs, water separators full of water etc... I have NEVER seen a crappy fuel issue from a vehicle that gets its fuel straight from a gas station pump.

I have no personal experience with the 3.5 and as a matter of fact, never even drove one before. What I do know is that If the 3.5 is so sensitive to these factors yet no other engine is, maybe the 3.5 is the problem. It’s always easier to chalk some issues up to “operator error” But if the problem persists with one engine and not “one person” it seems to me the blame should be pointed elsewhere.

its not 1980 any more dude. Fuel systems have gotten a lot more sensitive. Cars have 2 injectors per cylinder now vs back in the day with 4 for the whole motor.

same deal with oil. Most trucks won’t let you start them if your half a quart low

 

[Riley]

What if the manual option adds 2 seconds to your 0-60 time and cuts the towing capacity in half vs the 10 speed? Would you still want it?

Look at the manual in the gladiator. Towing capacity for the manual is something like 4200 lbs and 7500 for the auto. The auto will walk away from it in a drag race, bigly.

I’d only be interested in a manual bronco if the specs are closer to the same for the auto vs manual.

 

[Riley]

Also, no remote start in the manual gladiators to my knowledge. I really like starting my truck with my phone using ford pass.

 

[DrewBronc21]

What if the manual option adds 2 seconds to your 0-60 time and cuts the towing capacity in half vs the 10 speed? Would you still want it?

Look at the manual in the gladiator. Towing capacity for the manual is something like 4200 lbs and 7500 for the auto. The auto will walk away from it in a drag race, bigly.

I’d only be interested in a manual bronco if the specs are closer to the same for the auto vs manual.

I would take a slower Manual Bronco for the extra pedal and engagement and satisfaction of rowing gears on my own. If I tow anything, it will likely be a very small trailer.

new auto transmissions have come a long way and in many cases are quicker than manuals, but they’re still missing a pedal.

I have an auto Camry hybrid for daily duty and its super comfortable and thoughtless to drive. I really like it, but it’s boring as hell.

I will only purchase a Bronco if it’s a manual. If it’s truly a Wrangler competitor, it WILL have a manual transmission option.

 

[JimmyDean]

Also, no remote start in the manual gladiators to my knowledge. I really like starting my truck with my phone using ford pass.

There are kits to add remote start. Ford doesn’t do it from the factory because of idiots who would remote start it in gear

 

[wolfhawk73]

What if the manual option adds 2 seconds to your 0-60 time and cuts the towing capacity in half vs the 10 speed? Would you still want it?

Look at the manual in the gladiator. Towing capacity for the manual is something like 4200 lbs and 7500 for the auto. The auto will walk away from it in a drag race, bigly.

I’d only be interested in a manual bronco if the specs are closer to the same for the auto vs manual.

I'd still buy one with a manual. It's about the connective, fun factor. I've only owned two long-term dailies since 1996, and they're both manuals. Just mashing a pedal isn't enough.

As for towing, I don't drag race while towing. If it moves, it moves. If my uncle could tow a 21-foot Dixie cuddy cabin back in the late 80's with a 4 cylinder, manual trans, Nissan Hardbody 4x4, then I think I could probably run close to the max auto-trans tow capability with a manual just down to the local boat ramp or hardware store.

 

[BroncoBuyer]

its not 1980 any more dude. Fuel systems have gotten a lot more sensitive. Cars have 2 injectors per cylinder now vs back in the day with 4 for the whole motor.

same deal with oil. Most trucks won’t let you start them if your half a quart low

And oils have gotten way better and fuels are more strictly regulated, filtered and refined. What’s your point?
I didn’t die in the 80’s dude, I’m still driving new trucks today.

 

[FirstOnRaceDay]

And oils have gotten way better and fuels are more strictly regulated, filtered and refined. What’s your point?
I didn’t die in the 80’s dude, I’m still driving new trucks today.

im saying good luck keeping a newer truck for over 100k miles by putting Walmart oil and paint bucket gas in it

 

[BroncoBuyer]

im saying good luck keeping a newer truck for over 100k miles by putting Walmart oil and paint bucket gas in it

What the hell are you talking about??
Did you even read what I wrote?

Im almost done addressing you because you seem insane but let’s try this again.

1) I NEVER said using dirty fuel was fine. In contrast, I fully explained how I see plenty of fuel related issues on the job sites on construction equipment due to dirty handling and containment.
What I also said was I’ve never seen fuel related issues from fuel that was pumped directly from a gas pump into your tank as some would suggest happens all too often.
#2 Walmart oil... been there done that. Have cleared tripple that many miles using it sporadically without problem. Dont know how you think Walmart oil is going to cook your motor but I assure you it’s fine.

 

[frinesi2]

What if the manual option adds 2 seconds to your 0-60 time and cuts the towing capacity in half vs the 10 speed? Would you still want it?

Look at the manual in the gladiator. Towing capacity for the manual is something like 4200 lbs and 7500 for the auto. The auto will walk away from it in a drag race, bigly.

I’d only be interested in a manual bronco if the specs are closer to the same for the auto vs manual.

Yeah and what if the manual option had a boa constrictor instead of a clutch pedal and a lobster instead of a shifter and a clown punched you in the back every time you shifted gears and you had to start it by sticking your finger in an electrical socket then youd be a constantly irritated criple WOULD YOU BUY IT NOW GUYZ HUH I DIDN'T HTINK SO q.e.d.

 

[Timsvtgen1]

Yeah and what if the manual option had a boa constrictor instead of a clutch pedal and a lobster instead of a shifter and a clown punched you in the back every time you shifted gears and you had to start it by sticking your finger in an electrical socket then youd be a constantly irritated criple WOULD YOU BUY IT NOW GUYZ HUH I DIDN'T HTINK SO q.e.d.

Lobster claw shifters were all the rage in my day.

 

[Paint]

Lobster claw shifters were all the rage in my day.

AMEN BROTHA AND WE WORE AN ONION ON OUR BELTS IT WAS THE STYLE AT THE TIME

 

[Timsvtgen1]

AMEN BROTHA AND WE WORE AN ONION ON OUR BELTS IT WAS THE STYLE AT THE TIME

Great Simpsons reference!

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