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2ndgenirish

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Just out of curiosity, the air box on the Badlands has a drain hole. Is that true for the Everglades air box also?
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pandapaul

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Just out of curiosity, the air box on the Badlands has a drain hole. Is that true for the Everglades air box also?
I've been curious about that and keep forgetting to ask. @friethmiller do you know if yours has that drain hole in the air box?
 

FreddieLee

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No worries, not judging here, I live in Texas and after having to change my air filter once every hour following folks on dirt roads, I added a snorkel and Sy-clone pre-filter to my Colorado ZR2 Bison and I'm sure I got paid back by not having to buy so many air filters in the last 4 years.

I fully believe in them.
In my experience on the trail, this is EXACTLY what it is for. Dust and debris on the trail is brutal.
 

friethmiller

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You did it, man! Thanks for being one of the first ( the first?) to do this and sharing the experience.It looks awesome.
 
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pandapaul

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pandapaul

pandapaul

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You did it, man! Thanks for being one of the first ( the first?) to do this and sharing the experience.It looks awesome.
Woop Woop! Thank you! And yeah as far as I know this is the first non-Everglades with an Everglades snorkel, which is exciting.
 

Grumpy

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Congrats on the completion of this endeavor.

Few points I've been looking at with the finished product. One, the forward backing plate of the snorkel inlet. When you attach the plate is there a thin rubber or foam seal that is sandwiched between the plate and snorkel? Two, I would definitely install a one-way drain insert in bottom of filter box. Three, the down pipe that just snaps into fender unsealed. I would want as much of this kit sealed. That being said, if there is enough tolerance between fender and external down pipe I would create a thin foam gasket to sandwich between down pipe and ext fender mating surface. This material is readily available as a small roll online or in store. I would not use a silicone product, but a thin foam gasket. Forth, I would now be researching differential breather tubing, and alternator upgrading.

Also, since you plan on water fording as you have done, and reason for this project, you may want to look into a interior switch setup to shut off cooling fans. This may sound crazy to some, but I've seen it happen before. Being retired military and done plenty of water crossings on the job and recreational. When water crossing or fording for any decent length the plastic blades can break off from water directly pushing on the blades from forward momentum. When knowing you are going through a river or the like, you can flip the switch to shut them off, and when you are on dry land turn them back on. Just throwing that out there. I've even witnessed fan motors burning up from trying to rotate under water.

With this install, and don't take this comment as me being an asshat. Why wouldn't you go ahead and purchase the bottle and mounting plate? I would not have skipped this area. For any reason you may have to see a Ford service department for any issue related to this install affecting engine, performance, failure or CEL codes you would want it to look correct. You have done a lot of research, planning, to short cut a reasonably cheap couple of parts wasn't expected. But I would not cut, elbow or modify hoses to skimp on a few dollars as the parts are available to prevent this. Just my observation and is meaningless as its not my project.

But as I said, congrats on your accomplishment!
 
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pandapaul

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Congrats on the completion of this endeavor.

Few points I've been looking at with the finished product. One, the forward backing plate of the snorkel inlet. When you attach the plate is there a thin rubber or foam seal that is sandwiched between the plate and snorkel? Two, I would definitely install a one-way drain insert in bottom of filter box. Three, the down pipe that just snaps into fender unsealed. I would want as much of this kit sealed. That being said, if there is enough tolerance between fender and external down pipe I would create a thin foam gasket to sandwich between down pipe and ext fender mating surface. This material is readily available as a small roll online or in store. I would not use a silicone product, but a thin foam gasket. Forth, I would now be researching differential breather tubing, and alternator upgrading.

Also, since you plan on water fording as you have done, and reason for this project, you may want to look into a interior switch setup to shut off cooling fans. This may sound crazy to some, but I've seen it happen before. Being retired military and done plenty of water crossings on the job and recreational. When water crossing or fording for any decent length the plastic blades can break off from water directly pushing on the blades from forward momentum. When knowing you are going through a river or the like, you can flip the switch to shut them off, and when you are on dry land turn them back on. Just throwing that out there. I've even witnessed fan motors burning up from trying to rotate under water.

With this install, and don't take this comment as me being an asshat. Why wouldn't you go ahead and purchase the bottle and mounting plate? I would not have skipped this area. For any reason you may have to see a Ford service department for any issue related to this install affecting engine, performance, failure or CEL codes you would want it to look correct. You have done a lot of research, planning, to short cut a reasonably cheap couple of parts wasn't expected. But I would not cut, elbow or modify hoses to skimp on a few dollars as the parts are available to prevent this. Just my observation and is meaningless as its not my project.

But as I said, congrats on your accomplishment!
Thanks! Yep agreed on the seals. There is no gasket between the blocking/grill plates and the snorkel head. I really think there should be, so maybe I could do what you were talking about and try to make one? The fan shutoff switch makes total sense, and I will investigate that. Already planning on lengthening the breather lines and mounting the valves as high as possible.

For the alternator, I'm not sure what to do. Haven't researched it yet beyond noticing several folks pointing out its placement and protection not being ideal. Do you have any ideas on that bit?

I skipped the bracket and washer fluid reservoir parts since that would be an extra $450 or so just for those two parts. If I can't put together a tidy solution myself, I may end up purchasing them. If they had been $150 or less, I would have purchased them with no hesitation.
 

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Thanks! Yep agreed on the seals. There is no gasket between the blocking/grill plates and the snorkel head. I really think there should be, so maybe I could do what you were talking about and try to make one? The fan shutoff switch makes total sense, and I will investigate that. Already planning on lengthening the breather lines and mounting the valves as high as possible.

For the alternator, I'm not sure what to do. Haven't researched it yet beyond noticing several folks pointing out its placement and protection not being ideal. Do you have any ideas on that bit?

I skipped the bracket and washer fluid reservoir parts since that would be an extra $450 or so just for those two parts. If I can't put together a tidy solution myself, I may end up purchasing them. If they had been $150 or less, I would have purchased them with no hesitation.
Yes, the foam gasket is ideal for this purpose. Here is a link to some waterproof marine grade DIY gasket roll.
https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-Neoprene-Adhesive-Multi-Function-Soundproof/dp/B08R9LF7BX/ref=sr_1_60?crid=RPSFOXCR1M1O&keywords=foam+gasket+material+1/8+thick+automotive&qid=1682700176&sprefix=foam+gasket+material+1/8+thick+automotive,aps,124&sr=8-60&th=1

I would also use it on the snorkel base that snaps into the fender. It will also help protect the painted surface where the snorkel contacts the fender. It is very easy to trace out the design, cut and install. Apply the adhesive side to the snorkel block off plate and also the snorkel base where it enters the fender. The switch for the fans is very simple too. I threw the switch idea out there to you because most ppl do not even think about the cooling fans running under water through water flow. But if you are planning to do this often or often enough, then it would be a smart way to prevent failure. Good luck.
 

Tex

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Yes, the foam gasket is ideal for this purpose. Here is a link to some waterproof marine grade DIY gasket roll.
https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-Neoprene-Adhesive-Multi-Function-Soundproof/dp/B08R9LF7BX/ref=sr_1_60?crid=RPSFOXCR1M1O&keywords=foam+gasket+material+1/8+thick+automotive&qid=1682700176&sprefix=foam+gasket+material+1/8+thick+automotive,aps,124&sr=8-60&th=1

I would also use it on the snorkel base that snaps into the fender. It will also help protect the painted surface where the snorkel contacts the fender. It is very easy to trace out the design, cut and install. Apply the adhesive side to the snorkel block off plate and also the snorkel base where it enters the fender. The switch for the fans is very simple too. I threw the switch idea out there to you because most ppl do not even think about the cooling fans running under water through water flow. But if you are planning to do this often or often enough, then it would be a smart way to prevent failure. Good luck.
Might be fancy to have a water contact switch to shut the fans off automatically any time you reach a certain fording depth, I don't think it would be difficult to wire up. Something like this, perhaps:
https://www.ioanything.com/product/sensors/rain-sensor/

Or maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/Raindrops-Sensor-Module-Controller-Moisture/dp/B09842Z9LZ

I suppose just a regular float sensor would work too, but on bumpy roads it might flip your fans on and off a lot when the float starts bouncing around.
 

Grumpy

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Might be fancy to have a water contact switch to shut the fans off automatically any time you reach a certain fording depth, I don't think it would be difficult to wire up. Something like this, perhaps:
https://www.ioanything.com/product/sensors/rain-sensor/

Or maybe this?
https://www.amazon.com/Raindrops-Sensor-Module-Controller-Moisture/dp/B09842Z9LZ

I suppose just a regular float sensor would work too, but on bumpy roads it might flip your fans on and off a lot when the float starts bouncing around.
I've never seen the first link before, the second link I've seen before and seen it used before for something else for shut off. But the problem with it is once it gets covered in mud , it fails to sense moisture effectively. The best way in my opinion is a basic rocker switch to cut power to fans and turn on. Nothing expensive, but works as intended.
 

Tex

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I've never seen the first link before, the second link I've seen before and seen it used before for something else for shut off. But the problem with it is once it gets covered in mud , it fails to sense moisture effectively. The best way in my opinion is a basic rocker switch to cut power to fans and turn on. Nothing expensive, but works as intended.
It would have to be in a location where only water could reach it when actually submerged, rather than anywhere water could splash up on it. Using a switch is the simple way, yes.
 

Goose5226

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Woop Woop! Thank you! And yeah as far as I know this is the first non-Everglades with an Everglades snorkel, which is exciting.
Sorry you wont be the only none Everglades with an everglades snorkel. :unsure: Maybe in Florida! :p I wanted an everglades so bad and wasn't able to order one. SOOO I ordered a Green Badlands (which gets built next mouth:love:) and building my own BadLands Everglades. Because of your Hard work it'll be easier for me to complete the build with the snorkel. I ordered everything for my badlands to mock the Everglades besides the snorkel. I've been following your posts since you started this thread. I really appreciate you and everyone's input in all this so it'll be 100 times easier for people like me to copy what you did. Thank you everyone! 🤘✌💪
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