Full Range to rear speakers

[CJ1064]

Read through all 24 pages. I have B&O and a 2022 and still don't know if the sound bar flash will work for a 22'. That being said, I did order 4 Focal ACX 100s and it sounds like I shouldn't replace the rear pods unless I can unlock full range to the rears?? I don't really want to mess with Forscan so maybe I will just replace the dash and center speaker as that would give the most improvement??

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[Ksjrb03]

Read through all 24 pages. I have B&O and a 2022 and still don't know if the sound bar flash will work for a 22'. That being said, I did order 4 Focal ACX 100s and it sounds like I shouldn't replace the rear pods unless I can unlock full range to the rears?? I don't really want to mess with Forscan so maybe I will just replace the dash and center speaker as that would give the most improvement??

Don’t confuse the base system with the B&O. Base needs flash, B&O is tuned different. I have the same ACXs back there, and I have a full sound stage now. Swap em. Don’t forget the center channel ad well, the rear pods and the center are the most drastic difference after swap.

 

[akturbo]

Don’t confuse the base system with the B&O. Base needs flash, B&O is tuned different. I have the same ACXs back there, and I have a full sound stage now. Swap em. Don’t forget the center channel ad well, the rear pods and the center are the most drastic difference after swap.

Just finished my Kicker sub replacement, sounds pretty good after getting it sealed tight and tracking down rattles. Just listened to the stock 6.5s, my iPhone sounds better, they’re outta here. Just need the bass blockers that are still in the mail, this all arrived today.

 

[CJ1064]

Don’t confuse the base system with the B&O. Base needs flash, B&O is tuned different. I have the same ACXs back there, and I have a full sound stage now. Swap em. Don’t forget the center channel ad well, the rear pods and the center are the most drastic difference after swap.

Thanks ordering another set of ACX in the am. Did you use bass blockers on any of the 4” and if so what hz? I ordered 300hz but wasn’t sure if I need them.

 

[Brock9281]

Why not buy the soundbar, have dealer flash, then return the soundbar

 

[bytheway]

Wait, so the soundbar flash works on 22s? Or did they update FDRS? I tried to flash my B&O a couple months ago and it wasn’t there like the directions show.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

Why not buy the soundbar, have dealer flash, then return the soundbar

Because you cant return electronics.

 

[Brock9281]

Because you cant return electronics.

Too easy

 

[mbagne]

Don’t confuse the base system with the B&O. Base needs flash, B&O is tuned different. I have the same ACXs back there, and I have a full sound stage now. Swap em. Don’t forget the center channel ad well, the rear pods and the center are the most drastic difference after swap.

So you are saying the B&O is "tuned different", but are you indicating that for sure you know the B&O system does NOT need to be flashed to get full range in rear speakers?

 

[Ksjrb03]

So you are saying the B&O is "tuned different", but are you indicating that for sure you know the B&O system does NOT need to be flashed to get full range in rear speakers?

Yes I used a frequency scan clip and the rear pods play down to about 200hz in my B&O.

 

[Ksjrb03]

Thanks ordering another set of ACX in the am. Did you use bass blockers on any of the 4” and if so what hz? I ordered 300hz but wasn’t sure if I need them.

I swapped all speakers without adding any bass blockers. I have not heard anything that leads me to think I need them in the B&O after swapping to quality speakers. Adding them is easy and wouldn’t hurt.

 

[akturbo]

Difference I see between the B&O as built grid and the B&O w/ soundbar turned on that the 2 above provided is:

As Built B&O - 727-05-01 012A 006C 00CB
B&O w/ soundbar - 727-05-01 0012 006C 00B2

Thanks! Re-read as much as I could, the 3800 change is NOT for LUX...right? I'll throw in all the speakers, test without/with the changes above and report back.

I chose to go with 468uf, 85 Hz high pass on the 4s. I saw no need to cut the 4s off at 300hz, I'll let them run their range, only out $30 if the roll-off isn't sharp enough.

 

[KPLOBX]

It can be done.

I buckled down and bought the sound bar that Ford is pushing (the JBL BB4000). It looks to be plug-n-play out of the box, because it uses the same connectors as the factory rear speakers. But, once you buy it, the installation instructions tell you to take it to the dealer after installing, so that the computer can be "flashed" to accept the sound bar.

I connected it up anyway without flashing it, and it sounded just like the factory rear speakers - high end unimpressive sound. I then took it to the dealer who "flashed" it for free. Then it performed like you would expect the sound bar to sound - full range and full of great sound.

Curious about this "flashing" business - just for kicks - I unplugged the sound bar and plugged back in the factory speakers I had removed - and viola - full sound range from the little factory speaker pods.

I don't know why it comes from the factory with limited rear speakers that way - but clearly it is intentionally limited.

To "flash" the audio, the sound bar instructions say you must have the FDRS software ACM (audio control module) to perform the "Audio Front Control
Module (ACM) Software Update." The trick then is - find out how to do that (or get the dealer to do the flash) without buying the sound bar.

The good thing is that I was able to tap into the rear speakers (instead of running wires all the way up to the front kick panel speakers) to add my subwoofer.

With the sound bar I've got the range all around and with a sub I'm done.

STILL - I wonder if I would have needed the sound bar if I could just broaden the range of the rear speaker pods.

Anyway - if this hasn't been posted before (I didn't find it - sorry if this is a repeat)- there's the answer.

I’m thinking those speakers will get damaged if they get the full range signal if you turn it up all the time. They are avoiding a warranty claim.

 

[mbagne]

Yes I used a frequency scan clip and the rear pods play down to about 200hz in my B&O.

Well just above 200 we're talking about midrange, so these drivers would be considered low-midrange speakers if they clock in right at 200. Are these 4" woofers?

 

[Broncoder]

Just finished my Kicker sub replacement, sounds pretty good after getting it sealed tight and tracking down rattles. Just listened to the stock 6.5s, my iPhone sounds better, they’re outta here. Just need the bass blockers that are still in the mail, this all arrived today.

Thanks for the definitive advice on upgrading the B&O. Wasn't sure focals would fit, so I was leaning toward kickers instead. Questions:

1) Any concerns re: the RMS/Peak RMS on these being too low (particularly on the 4")? I have no idea what's running to them.
2) Did you splice the 4", or find a usable harness? I've seen mixed opinions on what to use throughout several posts on the subject.
3) Likewise on the sub regarding how you wired it up, and did you just swap it with the factory as is?
4) What did you opt for on the bass blockers for the 6.5s?

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