General consensus on replacing the rear links / control arms?

[Bentpushrod]

I've been having an issue with the upper forward mount bolts not staying tight. I'm running the Icon arms. I just had all 8 nuts and bolts on the arms replaced (and loctite) thinking it might be because they stretched and are not holding torque. I need to put a bunch more miles on to see if it made a difference.
Have you had the issue after going back to the stock arms?

No issues, after going back to stock. But I didn’t have issues with the mounting bolts. The issues I had were with the nuts that adjust the length of the arms.

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[Bentpushrod]

Is your lift level or raked? I have a Eibach 2.0 coilovers at 3 inches at front and 2 inches rear for a level lift on a non sasquatch Black Diamond with 37's. My pinion angle level at rear diff is 10 degrees and the driveshaft is 14 degrees so difference of 4 degrees and I'm getting some vibration but washout floors amplifies it doesn't deaden it if I had carpet. Wondering if I should go metalcloak or Rockjock or if 4 degrees on flat ground isn't an issue??? Thanks in advance

I’m running the factory Sasquatch Bilsteins,

Is your lift level or raked? I have a Eibach 2.0 coilovers at 3 inches at front and 2 inches rear for a level lift on a non sasquatch Black Diamond with 37's. My pinion angle level at rear diff is 10 degrees and the driveshaft is 14 degrees so difference of 4 degrees and I'm getting some vibration but washout floors amplifies it doesn't deaden it if I had carpet. Wondering if I should go metalcloak or Rockjock or if 4 degrees on flat ground isn't an issue??? Thanks in advance

I’m running the stock Sasquatch Bilsteins with Eibach springs. I was nose high, so added top hats in the rear to level it out. Also running a homemade 1” body lift.

 

[cgv]

Better performance = more NVH. Some are better at keeping NVH at a minimum, but never as good as the stock rubber. I like the arms that use the Johnny Joint . Top notch and hard to beat, but I have been looking at the Carli control arms. They have a similar joint that is rebuildable. I hope someone can chime in and give us a review on the Carli upper and lower arms. They look promising!

https://www.carlisuspension.com/pro...s-ford-bronco/21-23-bronco-rear-control-arms/

I've been looking for non-adjustable arms with better quality joints due to issues some have had with adjustable arms... This may be what I go with

 

[F-Spot]

No issues, after going back to stock. But I didn’t have issues with the mounting bolts. The issues I had were with the nuts that adjust the length of the arms.

Did the adjustable ends have 2 nuts (one as a jam nut)?

 

[Razorback]

Rock Krawler is coming out with another option

https://rockkrawler.com/bronco-pro-x-triangulated-4-link-conversion/

This is what I'm waiting on for reviews.

 

[Descent]

This is what I'm waiting on for reviews.

Here's a start

 

[Razorback]

Here's a start

I'll have Bubba do it if I go that route when I do the 74Weld portals.

 

[Bentpushrod]

Did the adjustable ends have 2 nuts (one as a jam nut)?

No

 

[cgv]

No

I assumed the arm was threaded and the only nut on the arm is the jam nut. Are you saying that's not the case?

Edit: meant jam nut, not lock nut

 

[F-Spot]

I assumed the arm was threaded and the only nut on the arm is the locknut. Are you saying that's not the case?

Looks like the nuts on the Johnny Joint ends are the jam nuts, for the RockJock arms.

 

[orion]

I assumed the arm was threaded and the only nut on the arm is the jam nut. Are you saying that's not the case?

Edit: meant jam nut, not lock nut

Yes that's how it is.

I think the issue, because I had the same issue, was no flats on the Core 4x4 arms themselves to put a wrench on. You would either have to put the arm in a vise to tighten up the jam nut or use a pipe wrench thus marring the surface. I ended up pulling them and putting them in the vice to tighten the jam nuts. Looks like their current offerings have the flats for a wrench. Also, I ended up taking the hardware that Core 4x4 provided out and using the stock nuts and bolts. The washers were too big and just grabbed the outside of the dimpled area the stock hardware recessed into causing the bolts to slip while flexing. And yes I torqued the bolts but they still slipped.

 

[Bentpushrod]

Yes that's how it is.

I think the issue, because I had the same issue, was no flats on the Core 4x4 arms themselves to put a wrench on. You would either have to put the arm in a vise to tighten up the jam nut or use a pipe wrench thus marring the surface. I ended up pulling them and putting them in the vice to tighten the jam nuts. Looks like their current offerings have the flats for a wrench. Also, I ended up taking the hardware that Core 4x4 provided out and using the stock nuts and bolts. The washers were too big and just grabbed the outside of the dimpled area the stock hardware recessed into causing the bolts to slip while flexing. And yes I torqued the bolts but they still slipped.

My issue exactly! I used a vice, and pipe wrench and loctite, and had issues. I thought of tack welding them, then decided just to go back to stock. I also used the stock hardware when I did run them.

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