HOSS 3.0 severe duty STEERING RACK and TIE RODS ...Ford Performance M-3200-WT

[BAUS67]

The RC driver’s side bushing WILL NOT work with the Severe Duty/Hoss 3.0 rack. I found that out the hard way today. Not sure about passenger’s side, as I went with a housing that had a bushing.

10-4. I deleted post so not to confuse.

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[Bmadda]

The RC driver’s side bushing WILL NOT work with the Severe Duty/Hoss 3.0 rack. I found that out the hard way today. Not sure about passenger’s side, as I went with a housing that had a bushing.

Side note: did you ever manage to program the rack w/procal? Seems alot of folks are struggling w/that!

 

[Migo]

You really don't want aftermarket bushings with the Hoss 3.0. I had some wear on my stock hoss 3.0 bushing and about the same wear on my BroncBuster bushing. Switched to 74Weld bushing and I even regret doing that. Rather just have left it stock and saved the money towards a 74weld full steering rack.

I agree. In retrospect, I likely wouldn’t take the time to do the bushing. The Hoss 3.0 bushing was a bear to get out, which made me think it would survive much longer than the 2.0. With that said, I had the bushing on hand, and by the time I destroyed the factory bushing, I was pot committed. Daily driver modding woes…

 

[Migo]

Side note: did you ever manage to program the rack w/procal? Seems alot of folks are struggling w/that!

I was. Completed the install over the weekend. It went pretty smooth, aside from the bushing issues. The programming piece was relatively straightforward, once you get the file onto your ProCal tool.

 

[jh3113]

Shot in the dark, but does anyone have an old 2.0 Rack lying they’d be willing to sell me? When torquing down my Stage 1 - 74 Weld housing, one of the T30 bolts just sheared completely off flush with the rack. I am thinking I might need to salvage part of a donor rack to frankenstein mine back to life (if I cant extract the bolt out of the housing, which I am debating if it is even worth my time trying since I’ve never had any luck extracting bolts). Thanks.

 

[Fordified1]

So that bolt is broken off in the main housing? Take the outer housing off and cut a screwdriver slot in the broke bolt with a thin cutoff wheel. If it’s too stuck to get with a flathead screwdriver weld a nut to it.

 

[Snacktime]

@jh3113
Easiest way is taking it out and apart. Then simply welding a nut on the end (muffler shop) will free it up due to the heat.

FYI your fine to drive it as is for a while, just no wheeling or jumping speed bumps.

 

[heelyeah]

Shot in the dark, but does anyone have an old 2.0 Rack lying they’d be willing to sell me? When torquing down my Stage 1 - 74 Weld housing, one of the T30 bolts just sheared completely off flush with the rack. I am thinking I might need to salvage part of a donor rack to frankenstein mine back to life (if I cant extract the bolt out of the housing, which I am debating if it is even worth my time trying since I’ve never had any luck extracting bolts). Thanks.

I've got one but I'm in NC. Where are you?

 

[jh3113]

I've got one but I'm in NC. Where are you?

Sent you a PM, thanks!

 

[jh3113]

So that bolt is broken off in the main housing? Take the outer housing off and cut a screwdriver slot in the broke bolt with a thin cutoff wheel. If it’s too stuck to get with a flathead screwdriver weld a nut to it.

Found a left-handed bit set in the garage and was able to extract it really easily without even removing the housing. Yay! Thanks for everyones advice!

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