ICON XD Forged Tie Rods

[Sixtysixpride]

Look no further than Ford. HOSS 3.0 upgrades both the rack and the tie rods. If Ford could've gotten away with upgrading just the tie rods then they probably would've done so to save $$$ on steering racks.

The motor in the steering gear is more capable (higher output) to drive bigger tires. It was a carryover from the F-150. This required a unique case to fit with the Bronco. Nexteer is the supplier

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[swooshdave]

Wish these were already available! Following for updates.

In the meantime some Ranger tie rods are cheap insurance.

 

[Neigh]

The motor in the steering gear is more capable (higher output) to drive bigger tires. It was a carryover from the F-150. This required a unique case to fit with the Bronco. Nexteer is the supplier

If the stock rack can already handle bigger tires without issue why did they feel the need to design another rack for the Raptor/HOSS 3.0?

 

[Sixtysixpride]

If the stock rack can already handle bigger tires without issue why did they feel the need to design another rack for the Raptor/HOSS 3.0?

Well originally in development the Raptor used F-150 Raptor components for steering/suspension/brakes. Eventually as it went further the parts that had been frankesteined were made into their own. Only a few things were carryover. As far as why a bigger motor, I think it was based around 37’s of the Raptor. Why the Wildtrak got it I’m not sure but probably a development lead time reduction over making unique tie-rods in the mix. It was easier to grab the rack from the DR1 (Raptor) and drop it into the Rough Road Suspension package (H.O.S.S 3.0) than create two different standard racks, separated by tie rod design. Not totally sure why the Wildtrak even needed the upgraded rack to begin with honestly but I do know there were supplier delays and Sasquatch as a unit was supposed to get a beefier system.

I am not on development just an office guy so I can only speculate

 

[swooshdave]

Well originally in development the Raptor used F-150 Raptor components for steering/suspension/brakes. Eventually as it went further the parts that had been frankesteined were made into their own. Only a few things were carryover. As far as why a bigger motor, I think it was based around 37’s of the Raptor. Why the Wildtrak got it I’m not sure but probably a development lead time reduction over making unique tie-rods in the mix. It was easier to grab the rack from the DR1 (Raptor) and drop it into the Rough Road Suspension package (H.O.S.S 3.0) than create two different standard racks, separated by tie rod design. Not totally sure why the Wildtrak even needed the upgraded rack to begin with honestly but I do know there were supplier delays and Sasquatch as a unit was supposed to get a beefier system.

I am not on development just an office guy so I can only speculate

I wish they had made the Hoss 3.0 an option on the Badlands.

 

[Sixtysixpride]

I wish they had made the Hoss 3.0 an option on the Badlands.

Me three. So to break it down for models. Internally the Badlands was called “Capable” and is the base foundation for the Raptor (and Heritage Limited). It is the highest performing trim available from a design and marketing goal standpoint. The Wildtrak was “Baja” and was originally to be unique in suspension and styling. Basically a Tremor model of the Bronco series. Last minute it was decided to market it like the Australian Wildtrak which is the top tier product offering in both capability and luxury but sadly they came to this conclusion way late and now it’s just now finally catching up to what it was supposed to be.

 

[Joker352]

Added to my wish list!

 

[Gomezstx]

What sort of testing/validation was done to ensure this product isn't going to put undue stress on the stock rack & pinion and cause a much more expensive failure?

I’m a mechanical engineer Not affiliated with any products. Whit Icobs solution they have eliminated the tie rod as the place where failure would occur. I you look at Bronbuster’s videos you will see that the steering rack will be the place where stuff can happen next if your exceed the intended use. This tie rod is WAY WAY stronger as its now paired up with stock steering rack. So Icon would not really need to do any testing as they have simply made a product that solved the problem of a tie rod failing

 

[rtaylor]

That was me. I used a screw style separator and even then it took some serious turns before it finally popped. That was also after beating the heck out of it with a regular hammer followed by a 3lb sledge. The passenger side popped out on it's own

Same here. Mine are very tight when torqued to 46lb-ft. A hammer won't do anything except mushroom the stud end.

Ford warns against using a hammer for the tie rod or uca joint to avoid breaking the cast knuckle. Threaded tie rod separator is the safest option, and sometimes the only thing that will work.

 

[Aman]

I'm guessing something like this would be plenty for the Bronco, yeah?
https://www.amazon.com/Blackhawk-B6350-Black-Fast-Service/dp/B0054WGRBA

If you're only going to purchase a single jack, consider a modified Harbor Freight jack. I wanted a lightweight floor jack to keep in my rig, so I purchased the DAYTONA 1.5 ton Professional Racing Series Aluminum Floor Jack and upgraded it with the 911 Motorsports Offroad Jack Conversion Combo Kit. It's a pretty solid setup I find it to be a better and slightly cheaper route than the Pro Eagle TALON.

A lot of people swear by bottle jacks, but I still like a floor jack.

 

[swooshdave]

Same here. Mine are very tight when torqued to 46lb-ft. A hammer won't do anything except mushroom the stud end.

Ford warns against using a hammer for the tie rod or uca joint to avoid breaking the cast knuckle. Threaded tie rod separator is the safest option, and sometimes the only thing that will work.

You never hit the stud with the hammer. Basic mechanics.

Hitting the side of the knuckle works although it has some small risk.

 

[swooshdave]

A lot of people swear by bottle jacks, but I still like a floor jack.

Size is the primary consideration for the bottle jack. Also you can use it to pry things.

 

[Sewie]

A hammer won't do anything except mushroom the stud end.

You don't hammer the stud. It's a tapered end. You hit the knuckle and the force should cause the end to pop out. And the line right below what you circled they mention that using a picklefork can (will, in my experience) damage the outer TRE boot. Fine if you're not reusing it, but if you're only planning on replacing the inner, I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[Dusty]

A lot of people swear by bottle jacks, but I still like a floor jack.

Size is the primary consideration for the bottle jack. Also you can use it to pry things.

Yeah us 2-door guys prefer a bottle jack. We'd have to give up the beer cooler to make room for a floor jack LOL.

 

[Jdc]

Same here. Mine are very tight when torqued to 46lb-ft. A hammer won't do anything except mushroom the stud end.

Ford warns against using a hammer for the tie rod or uca joint to avoid breaking the cast knuckle. Threaded tie rod separator is the safest option, and sometimes the only thing that will work.

And...that's why you RTFM. I wish I'd read that before hammering the sh%t out of mine . On the plus side I now have a threaded tie rod separator and experience detaching them.

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