Inexpensive yet impactful speaker upgrade plus FORScan mod

[BroncoBill44]

your 727-01-01 line will not read 382B, it will read something else and I forgot to write it down. You'd be my favorite person in the world if you used forscan to tell me what that line reads on a B&O bronco so I have it if I ever want to revert back to factory settings

Mine with the B&O is 3017. Still digging to see if anyone has any success. ??

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[RainbowStix]

Thank you sir for this! Just ordered the setup but i have a 2022 bronco so i dont think i will be able to modify with forscan yet.

Not sure if someone already answered this but I was able to modify my ‘22

 

[redone17]

Anyone else have this DTC after making the change in Forscan? I just noticed it. All 6 speakers are connected and working fine. It won’t clear.

ACM: Code: B1A06 - Speaker #6 Additional Fault

Symptom: - Circuit Open

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Audio Control Module (ACM)

 

[BudgetBronco]

Anyone else have this DTC after making the change in Forscan? I just noticed it. All 6 speakers are connected and working fine. It won’t clear.

ACM: Code: B1A06 - Speaker #6 Additional Fault

Symptom: - Circuit Open

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Audio Control Module (ACM)

Yes, you will get that, I got the same. No impact that I have seen. I plan to just ignore it.

 

[SuicidalSmurf]

Not sure if someone already answered this but I was able to modify my ‘22

Sorry if a bit off topic, did you modify anything else with ForScan? Did you have to use the "test" version floating around or did the last official build work ok? I'm nervous about using an unsigned .exe out of Russia on my brand new Bronco (whenever it shows up).

 

[RainbowStix]

Sorry if a bit off topic, did you modify anything else with ForScan? Did you have to use the "test" version floating around or did the last official build work ok? I'm nervous about using an unsigned .exe out of Russia on my brand new Bronco (whenever it shows up).

Yeah, I did the speedo recalibration, panic button, seatbelt minder, auto start stop, rear eq, and a few other things. You do need the test version. And I believe, the last official is unsigned and out of Russia as well. You will have to forego using Forscan if that bothers you

 

[F OR D]

Yeah, I did the speedo recalibration, panic button, seatbelt minder, auto start stop, rear eq, and a few other things. You do need the test version. And I believe, the last official is unsigned and out of Russia as well. You will have to forego using Forscan if that bothers you

all of them work good? especially the as/s? i thought people had issues with that one or the a is always on the display.

 

[RainbowStix]

all of them work good? especially the as/s? i thought people had issues with that one or the a is always on the display.

all great. The seatbelt light does stay on, and the Auto stop icon does stay on with a light gray cross through it. Hardly noticeable.

seatbelt minder does still beep when doors are off, believe this is related to the door being “ open” and you not being in park

 

[BBBronco]

Ok, so I have 600hz Blockers up front with Infinity in the four corners. I think it sounds pretty good as is, but front heavy. I’d prefer to avoid paying the dealer to flash since I have Forscan.

Question is - 300hz Blockers in the rear? Get SOME bass out of them and fill the space out?

Old thread I realize, but just took delivery of my Bronco June 2nd. I called my dealership service department to ask about having my system “flashed” for JBL sound bar, dude had zero clue what I was talking about. I added 1000 watt amp and 2 10” subs, but I have zero bass if I fade anywhere past center. I’ve ordered 4 Kicker 4” flush mount for dash corners and rear pods, I’ve heard that helps. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[BudgetBronco]

Old thread I realize, but just took delivery of my Bronco June 2nd. I called my dealership service department to ask about having my system “flashed” for JBL sound bar, dude had zero clue what I was talking about. I added 1000 watt amp and 2 10” subs, but I have zero bass if I fade anywhere past center. I’ve ordered 4 Kicker 4” flush mount for dash corners and rear pods, I’ve heard that helps. Any advice is appreciated.

I have heard from other forum members a lot of variation in the dealer knowledge and readiness to support the JBL flash. Most responses are in line with yours, dealers have no idea what it is, but if you give them the printed instructions that come with the JBL package, they should be able to follow them. I even heard of a couple dealers that did it for free, in one case even for a guy that did not purchase the JBL.

 

[BBBronco]

I have heard from other forum members a lot of variation in the dealer knowledge and readiness to support the JBL flash. Most responses are in line with yours, dealers have no idea what it is, but if you give them the printed instructions that come with the JBL package, they should be able to follow them. I even heard of a couple dealers that did it for free, in one case even for a guy that did not purchase the JBL.

That’s what I’m hoping for, I have no intention of buying the sound bar. Thanks for input!

 

[ASlaugh]

Any chance you’ll make some with 300hz? Looking for a pair. Cheers.

If you are still interested, I have started making the 300Hz blocker. Available on my eBay account. https://www.ebay.com/itm/334510045932

 

[AutoTerry]

I did the dash/roll bar speakers and happy with result.

Not happy with the kick panel output - swapped Kickers in and they are muted/underpowered. Dynamated the lining and used a boom mat. Did a L/R compare with Kicker vs. OEM and the head unit is clearly tuned for OEM.. wonder if it is a power issue?

Posting for a heads up to others diving into the kick panel upgrade or has an idea to try to fix.. been reading pages on DSP etc. but haven't tried much else yet

So if I read this correctly the OEM speakers in the kick panel sound better than the Kickers you installed? I did not do a comparison when I installed mine, but not happy with the aftermarket speakers I installed in the kick panels, not enough bass is what I feel. Thanks

 

[teevan]

So if I read this correctly the OEM speakers in the kick panel sound better than the Kickers you installed? I did not do a comparison when I installed mine, but not happy with the aftermarket speakers I installed in the kick panels, not enough bass is what I feel. Thanks

I also swapped out my kick panels for MJP6's - but I am also finding the same result that there isn't enough bass vs the OEM speakers. I didn't amplify them, thought just swapping them would be enough. So debating going back to the OEM speakers.

 

[MOBRONCO]

I also swapped out my kick panels for MJP6's - but I am also finding the same result that there isn't enough bass vs the OEM speakers. I didn't amplify them, thought just swapping them would be enough. So debating going back to the OEM speakers.

Good mid bass usually requires a correctly sized enclosure and a lot of power, the OEM kick panels are not sealed in any way so the kick panel speakers are essentially playing free air, which allows the rear wave of the speaker to cancel out the front. Also a sealed (or properly ported) enclosure acts as a spring to dampen and enhance output, without it bass is a mess, and it’s why the kick panel speakers are not doing much with the way Ford designed them, even with aftermarket speakers. Look at the loose foam plug below the woofer and the other openings on that panel, if you seal those well you will get tighter, punchier mid bass. It still won’t go super low, but it should sound better.

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