Keep the faith! It’s beyond worth it when she finally arrives.
Since this is outside my realm of expertise, what is the benefit of doing this swap? It looks cool as hell, just want to know the benefits beyond ascetics.After much research, I found a cheaper alternative to the ford performance M220 diff cover. The rear Dana 44 installed in our broncos is nearly identical to the rear axle used in the Wrangler JL Jeep.
At $140.76 for the Dana Spicer OEM cover (Part # 10040651), it is far cheaper than what you pay for the Ford Performance Parts M220 diff cover at $295 (Part # M-4033-R). You are basically paying for a sticker!
Here are a few things you'll need before the installation:
2 Quarts of 75w-85 Motorcraft Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant (Part # XY75W85QL)
1 Rear differential cover gasket (Part # 4036)
Tools Needed for the installation:
A pair of safety glasses
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive impact gun
3/8" drive short extension
1/2" drive impact gun
10 mm deep socket (3/8" drive)
13 mm deep socket (3/8" drive)
15/16 Deep socket (1/2" drive)
Small pry bar
Gasket scraper
Razor blade
Torque wrench capable of 20-25 Ft-lbs
Oil pan
Rags
Acetone or some other solvent to clean the mating surface of oils
#268 lock tight or something similar for when we install the OEM plug and two 13mm bolts in the Dana cover
Start by parking on a flat surface. Place your oil pan under the differential in preparation for draining. You'll need to remove two plastic clips on studs that support the rear brake lines.
After removing the plastic clips, remove the cover bolts with a 10 mm socket. Be very careful while using an impact gun on the housing. You will need a short extension and a 13mm deep socket to remove the bolts with studs for the plastic clips. Save these, as we will reuse them during our installation of the dana cover. When removing the cover, a small pry bar may be necessary to break the seal between the cover and housing. Be careful not to damage the rear cover gasket, as it is reusable per the ford maintenance manual. If the gasket is damaged or you bought a new one, disregard this statement above, as you'll be changing it out anyway.
Visually inspect the mating surface for pitting or damage, and clean it with a rag and mild solvent. Inspect the rear drive gear and its components for any unusual wear or damaged teeth.
Clean the reusable gasket as needed. You will now begin to prep the dana cover for installation.
Remove the fill plug from the OEM cover, as it has a magnetic plug. We will replace the dana fill plug with the OEM plug to gain the magnet, hopefully preventing metal shaving from collecting in the bottom of the axle housing. Take your time to clean metal shavings on the magnet from the break-in process when you first got your bronco.
Pictured above are the ten 10mm dana bolts that come with the cover and the two 13mm bolts with studs used for the plastic brake line clips.
Using the provided gasket maker from Dana, we will run a bead along the inside of the gasket on both sides. This will help tack the gasket in place, making it easier to install the gasket and cover together while keeping the holes lined up.
Using a 1/2" drive impact gun, remove the passenger side 15/16" bolt on the panhard bar. We will need to move the panhard bar out of the way slightly to install the dana cover easily.
Using a bolt on top of the housing to loosely hold the cover in place, begin to install the provided dana bolts hand-tight.
Torque the bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs, and be sure to tighten these bolts down to compress the gasket evenly. I worked in a 12- to 6 o'clock pattern for all bolts.
Note: These bolts are very easy to snap. Do not over-torque!
Thankfully I had two extra dana bolts because of the 13mm studs we are reusing from the OEM cover.
Clean up any gasket maker that might squeeze out with a rag.
Push the plastic clips back onto their studs.
Fill with approx. 2 quarts of 75w-85 gear lube. Using the bottom hole in the cover, Fill until the lubricant begins to come out. There might be residual gear lube left inside the housing, so the total amount needed to fill the housing completely could be slightly less than 2 quarts. Once full reinstall the 15/16" bolt of the Panhard bar.
Install the plugs with some of the #268 lock tight and torque them to about 25-30 ft-lbs.
Monitor for leaks after driving, and it might be a good idea to re-torque the bolts after a few hundred miles just to be safe.
Since this is outside my realm of expertise, what is the benefit of doing this swap? It looks cool as hell, just want to know the benefits beyond ascetics.
Thank you
Why not just put on diff cover plate?
Most diff skid plates I've seen only protect the housing and parts of the tubes. The diff cover is still exposed.
nope
I snapped the bolt because I didn’t feel or hear the initial click that I was at torque so I continued to send it. The raptors are 9.75” rear ends and the diff covers for them are not compatible. I do wish this cover had a drain plug but it is easy enough to loosen the bottom bolts to split the cover when it’s time to drain.I never saw the point of replacing a rear diff cover that did not have a drain plug. Pictured below is what I ran on my GEN2 Raptor and this looks like it would fit a base bronco >> https://www.ballisticfabrication.co...ducts/jeep-rubicon-dana-44-differential-cover
#Nchiappetta5 ... I assume the torque specs called for 20-25? I have installed diff covers on my GEN1 and GEN2 Raptor and the torque was around 17ft-pounds.
Same has happened to others on F150 Raptor forum, once you get above 20, you snap those bolts.
Also, I always ran some stainless bolts ones like these
To my knowledge the Dana 44 and the Dana 44 advantek are different so fitment would have to be verified with ballistic fab.
