Metal-tech 4x4 Sidewinder Rock Sliders - 100% Frame mounted now available w/Cerakoted Step Plates

[Metal-tech 4x4]

Sidewinders! Starting at $849.95
Frame-mounted performance rock slider made in-house, made in USA.

After a full year of testing, desert, tight wooded trails, and extreme Rocks, including the Rubicon trail, we have released the latest and most off-road performance slider for the 6G Broncos. The new Metal-tech 4x4 Sidewinder Rock Sliders bolt to your frame and feature a tested and proven 25* angle (boat side) of the slider main body and rub rail. We tested different angles and discovered 25* is optimum for the Broncos for side protection, yet ground clearance due to how much camber (tilting) the Broncos can achieve. Of course, we are running the Metal-tech 4x4 trademarked two-stage rub rail, designed to help push your truck off obstacles as you pass to help save your rear quarter panel. The sliders have off-road performance as focus #1. They still can be used as a step to get in/out and access your roof.

Install is 100% bolt-on to your frame with no drilling or modification to your truck. They work with the stock and most aftermarket skid plate systems out now. (including the soon-to-come MT skids) They also have a completely flat underside frame profile once installed.

Optional Cerakoted (ceramic baked on paint) step plates. These are the first sliders on the market to offer optional Cerakote finished step plates. This allows you to pick a color, be it bright or a flat, subdued earth tone, to accent your Broncos style. We have three color options to start with; however, we are open to custom requests as Metal-tech 4x4 is a Certified Cerikote applicator and finishes all Cerakoted parts in-house. Do you want Pink? Nickel white? Lime green? We can do it with some added lead time. Step plates can also be added at any time. It is also easy to swap them out if you want to change the color for the season or have a different look later.

Sidewinders start at $849.99, and through Nov. 30th, flat $99 shipping anywhere in the lower 48. (After the 30th, shipping is a flat $149)

Sidewinders can be ordered here! We have several in stock, ready to ship, and we are building more in-house now.

NOTE: We are still stocking and building our frame-mounted flat decked Step Slider, also ready for hard use but features a wide flat step. (they are also on sale through the end of this month)

Intro video on the Sidewinders here:
(install video to come)

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[userdude]

Looks nice! I asked on another thread, but will here as well. Wondering about the small kickout; not that there's anything wrong with it, just normally see a bigger bend. And, when will you have a 2dr version?

 

[Metal-tech 4x4]

Looks nice! I asked on another thread, but will here as well. Wondering about the small kickout; not that there's anything wrong with it, just normally see a bigger bend. And, when will you have a 2dr version?

It's all about moving forward and at times backward on the trail. The Sidewinders are meant for hard trail use. We are keeping the kick out tucked in since it does not take much for it to do its job on the Bronco since the rear tire/quarter panel is tucked in tight for the departure angle by Ford's design. The same goes for the aggressive 25* angle we learned over real-world testing of the sliders, which is optimum for the Broncos. Not 10, 15, 20, or 30, it's 25* for best results, and that still protects the side radius of the doors. (as in go by a tree). For more of an extremely strong still frame mounted general use slider with our kick out, we are continuing to make our MT4x4 Step Slider. (in stock for 4 and 2 door at the time of writing this)

2D Sidewinders are in the home stretch but there is not a formal release date just yet. BUT are definitely coming!

 

[userdude]

Just wondering what your thoughts are about slapping some plastic on these sliders? UHMW is all the rage it seems, do you think that'd be worth the project?

 

[Metal-tech 4x4]

Just wondering what your thoughts are about slapping some plastic on these sliders? UHMW is all the rage it seems, do you think that'd be worth the project?

Happy to respond to this, drawing from 35+ years of offroading and just under 24yrs doing it and building parts professionally.

Some comp guys have used cutting boards for years, AKA UHMW plastic glides. At the same time, some comp guys have also stopped using them, too, opting for steel or alloys to slide just fine on rocks.

In 35+ years of wheeling, I have never found myself saying, "Man, if only I had put a plastic glide on X, I could have made that obstacle". Matched-built rigs one with UHMW and one w/o driven by the same driver, will have the same capability of making it through an obstacle.

Years ago, we tested plastic on the lower links and skids our custom long-arm, long-travel FJ Cruiser and FJ40 rock-built truck. The thought was we could glide over rocks more easily. I could never find a difference vrs. Steel for how smoothly the truck went through the rocks. The downside was that I actually did wheel the FJ in rocks and the plastic started to get chewed up over time and caught, thus not sliding as well or working down, exposing the flat head fasteners holding the plastic. But the plastic keeps corrosion from happening, right? Nope. also over time, moisture built up between the mounting points and the plastic, and corrosion showed up. (guys usually promote UHMP live and wheel mostly in dry climates, where this is not an issue) Also, water worked inside the links through the mounting holes, again over time. I found no value anywhere outside of dedicated rocks since trees, roots, and mud just get packed into them. This was also on a truck that went into big rocks quite a bit; for most daily drivers, never see anything like that.

"Races are won in the garage" is a quote from all competition motorsports. In off-road comp use, you run your buggy, then go home and tear it down, check everything (including your glides if you run them) replace wear points, rebuild your suspension, etc., before racing it again. Sport performance offroad use, we never see or do this. Of course, we maintain, but no full teardowns. Most go deep into their trucks only to fix a broken thing but not strip it down, rebuild the suspension, etc., between runs. For Sport use, we need simple but proven performance upgrades that don't require regular service post-hard use.

Bottom line: With little to no significant gain in the rocks with them for sport use, they came off our trucks just like carrying around a 40 to 60lbs full Co2 tank to fill tires vs. a 20-pound good air compressor did. It seems like a great idea, but as you put the ideas to real use, the value is not there. I encourage whatever would be added to the build budget for plastic to be moved to something that has a higher ROI since we all know our trucks always need another upgraded part somewhere!

However, some, will indeed find value in plastic on skids/sliders in some way to them. If they do, I am happy for them. At the end of the day, if we have been on ANY offroad trail and we all make it home with our trucks under their own power, it's been a good day.

Mark Hawley
Founding owner of Metal-tech 4x4

 

[userdude]

Happy to respond to this, drawing from 35+ years of offroading and just under 24yrs doing it and building parts professionally.

Some comp guys have used cutting boards for years, AKA UHMW plastic glides. At the same time, some comp guys have also stopped using them, too, opting for steel or alloys to slide just fine on rocks.

In 35+ years of wheeling, I have never found myself saying, "Man, if only I had put a plastic glide on X, I could have made that obstacle". Matched-built rigs one with UHMW and one w/o driven by the same driver, will have the same capability of making it through an obstacle.

Years ago, we tested plastic on the lower links and skids our custom long-arm, long-travel FJ Cruiser and FJ40 rock-built truck. The thought was we could glide over rocks more easily. I could never find a difference vrs. Steel for how smoothly the truck went through the rocks. The downside was that I actually did wheel the FJ in rocks and the plastic started to get chewed up over time and caught, thus not sliding as well or working down, exposing the flat head fasteners holding the plastic. But the plastic keeps corrosion from happening, right? Nope. also over time, moisture built up between the mounting points and the plastic, and corrosion showed up. (guys usually promote UHMP live and wheel mostly in dry climates, where this is not an issue) Also, water worked inside the links through the mounting holes, again over time. I found no value anywhere outside of dedicated rocks since trees, roots, and mud just get packed into them. This was also on a truck that went into big rocks quite a bit; for most daily drivers, never see anything like that.

"Races are won in the garage" is a quote from all competition motorsports. In off-road comp use, you run your buggy, then go home and tear it down, check everything (including your glides if you run them) replace wear points, rebuild your suspension, etc., before racing it again. Sport performance offroad use, we never see or do this. Of course, we maintain, but no full teardowns. Most go deep into their trucks only to fix a broken thing but not strip it down, rebuild the suspension, etc., between runs. For Sport use, we need simple but proven performance upgrades that don't require regular service post-hard use.

Bottom line: With little to no significant gain in the rocks with them for sport use, they came off our trucks just like carrying around a 40 to 60lbs full Co2 tank to fill tires vs. a 20-pound good air compressor did. It seems like a great idea, but as you put the ideas to real use, the value is not there. I encourage whatever would be added to the build budget for plastic to be moved to something that has a higher ROI since we all know our trucks always need another upgraded part somewhere!

However, some, will indeed find value in plastic on skids/sliders in some way to them. If they do, I am happy for them. At the end of the day, if we have been on ANY offroad trail and we all make it home with our trucks under their own power, it's been a good day.

Mark Hawley
Founding owner of Metal-tech 4x4

Nice answer! Thank you for the detailed response. About that good compressor... lol That is part of the problem, though, without experience it can be tricky figuring out what you need vs want, there's sooooo much out there.

 

[climb2descend]

I'm definitely gonna keep an eye out for the 2 dr version.

 

[Snacktime]

What kind of tubing are you using?

 

[userdude]

What kind of tubing are you using?

I'm glad you asked. I was wondering the same thing, but figured who cares.

 

[Metal-tech 4x4]

What kind of tubing are you using?

I'm glad you asked. I was wondering the same thing, but figured who cares.

Great question.

1.75" DOM round tubing with a 0.120 wall is our US Trademarked 2-stage Rub rail. The main body's square tubing with 45* ramps on both ends is 2" X 2" with 3/16 or 0.188" walls, and the legs to the frame are 3" x 1.5" boxes with 1/4" or 0.250" walls.

Mounting feet that bolt to the existing frame features are laser cut and formed 1/4" plate that cups the side of the frame and wraps under. All the gussets keyed (slot and tab for mechanical locks as well as weld fusion) between the legs and the mounting plates are also laser cut 1/4" steel.

All US Made Steel.

This combination of materials is a proven balance of weight to strength for maximum protection. For the tubing on our sliders, we never ask if you want HERW or DOM; it's DOM. It's the same stuff we make custom Gen1 Bronco roll cages out of for a local $150K+ each custom G1 Bronco build shop.

ALL Metal-tech 4x4 sliders come with a Limited Lifetime warranty. We have been making and wheeling sliders for over 24 years. Metal-tech 4x4 sliders are on every continent but Antarctica.

 

[Snacktime]

Not bad specs! Fyi my 3/16" 2x2 welded seam tubing I use for a rock rail is banana shaped. A few of us are looking for atomic strength sliders if you feel up to it.

 

[Bored]

Happy to respond to this, drawing from 35+ years of offroading and just under 24yrs doing it and building parts professionally.

Some comp guys have used cutting boards for years, AKA UHMW plastic glides. At the same time, some comp guys have also stopped using them, too, opting for steel or alloys to slide just fine on rocks.

In 35+ years of wheeling, I have never found myself saying, "Man, if only I had put a plastic glide on X, I could have made that obstacle". Matched-built rigs one with UHMW and one w/o driven by the same driver, will have the same capability of making it through an obstacle.

Years ago, we tested plastic on the lower links and skids our custom long-arm, long-travel FJ Cruiser and FJ40 rock-built truck. The thought was we could glide over rocks more easily. I could never find a difference vrs. Steel for how smoothly the truck went through the rocks. The downside was that I actually did wheel the FJ in rocks and the plastic started to get chewed up over time and caught, thus not sliding as well or working down, exposing the flat head fasteners holding the plastic. But the plastic keeps corrosion from happening, right? Nope. also over time, moisture built up between the mounting points and the plastic, and corrosion showed up. (guys usually promote UHMP live and wheel mostly in dry climates, where this is not an issue) Also, water worked inside the links through the mounting holes, again over time. I found no value anywhere outside of dedicated rocks since trees, roots, and mud just get packed into them. This was also on a truck that went into big rocks quite a bit; for most daily drivers, never see anything like that.

"Races are won in the garage" is a quote from all competition motorsports. In off-road comp use, you run your buggy, then go home and tear it down, check everything (including your glides if you run them) replace wear points, rebuild your suspension, etc., before racing it again. Sport performance offroad use, we never see or do this. Of course, we maintain, but no full teardowns. Most go deep into their trucks only to fix a broken thing but not strip it down, rebuild the suspension, etc., between runs. For Sport use, we need simple but proven performance upgrades that don't require regular service post-hard use.

Bottom line: With little to no significant gain in the rocks with them for sport use, they came off our trucks just like carrying around a 40 to 60lbs full Co2 tank to fill tires vs. a 20-pound good air compressor did. It seems like a great idea, but as you put the ideas to real use, the value is not there. I encourage whatever would be added to the build budget for plastic to be moved to something that has a higher ROI since we all know our trucks always need another upgraded part somewhere!

However, some, will indeed find value in plastic on skids/sliders in some way to them. If they do, I am happy for them. At the end of the day, if we have been on ANY offroad trail and we all make it home with our trucks under their own power, it's been a good day.

Mark Hawley
Founding owner of Metal-tech 4x4

I did opt for the UHMW/UHMP as a part of my underbody protection for my bronco build (2dr). I have not used it in the past but wanted to try it.

I wasn't aware of your products when I made my purchase decisions, but I appreciate the extent to which you responded and how you did. I will definitely contact you if my first purchase fails or doesn't work out for any reason. I would also be interested in "atomic strength" sliders.

I appreciate you and all the others who make their knowledge available to the masses.

 

[the poacher]

Please give us a shout out when your 2dr Sidewinders are available.

 

[Metal-tech 4x4]

Not bad specs! Fyi my 3/16" 2x2 welded seam tubing I use for a rock rail is banana shaped. A few of us are looking for atomic strength sliders if you feel up to it.

@Bored

Bending main bodies is not just the fault of that material. It’s how that material is supported by the legs and the feet to the frame. The legs and feet are what will allow the main rail to flex more than it needs too*. We back our sliders with a limited lifetime warranty. You bend a main body, it’s covered.

So why not build the “Zombie Apocalypse” slider? Because you never remove the breaking point - ONLY move it. Of course anyone can purposely go try to bend a slider, speed + impact can do it. However if we built the main bodies with 1” thick 2x2 bars, 1.25” thick box tube legs to the frame with 3/4” thick mounting feet etc. Where is the breaking/bending point? Well it’s exactly what it’s attached too , your frame. If one has to slam their truck hard enough to bend OUR slider, *it just saved you bending a part of your frame. (Look at how not thick the Bronco frame is…. ) Part of good engineering is controlling the breaking/bending point w/o causing more damage elsewhere. (I could go into non breakable tie rods now). I will take the bent slider main body warranty knowing the Metal-tech 4x4 slider saved some guys frame from getting bent/blown out. Built with 24yrs of hard trail experience, backed with a limited lifetime warranty for a reason.

 

[mcinfantry]

I hit mine hard in Moab upwards and sideways

no issues at all. And would buy again

heck I might go 25*

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