Oracle light up letters on the parking lights fuse

[Figmo]

@ORACLE Lighting how about you PM this thread? Might cut down on the number of PM’s you have to send. If that’s not possible due to legal issues or something - then please PM me. As I too would love to know how to wire up my new letters I bought from you.

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[Ohnoohnoooo]

@ORACLE Lighting thr fuse you show in this pic and the instructs you provided stays hot all the time for me. Even when my vehicle is off.

Does it stay on even after the 15ish minute accessory timeout? I'd like mine to be on anytime the vehicle is on. I'm fine with it staying on for the buffer period after the engine is cut, but obviously not ALL the time. If not, @ORACLE Lighting what is the best way to achieve this (PM fine)

 

[Arrowbear Rider]

Here you go:

Question, I am using a ad-a-circuit and it seems it's is too tall to properly close the lid, the latch closest won't latch and where do we route the wire so it doesn't pinch?

There are very small slots on the sides of the box/ridge, but there are other ridges inside of that and those pinch the wire too.

 

[Dadsquatch]

Question, I am using a ad-a-circuit and it seems it's is too tall to properly close the lid, the latch closest won't latch and where do we route the wire so it doesn't pinch?

There are very small slots on the sides of the box/ridge, but there are other ridges inside of that and those pinch the wire too.

Anytime you use an add a fuse on the Bronco this is a problem. No way around it unless you modify/notch the fuse box, but then you’re introducing a dust entry point. I got my fuse box to actually close with an add a fuse, but there is a small bulge at the top lid and my wire is bent and pinched more than I’d like.

 

[JP_Oracle]

Does it stay on even after the 15ish minute accessory timeout? I'd like mine to be on anytime the vehicle is on. I'm fine with it staying on for the buffer period after the engine is cut, but obviously not ALL the time. If not, @ORACLE Lighting what is the best way to achieve this (PM fine)

They should shut off with the buffer period.

 

[Arrowbear Rider]

Anytime you use an add a fuse on the Bronco this is a problem. No way around it unless you modify/notch the fuse box, but then you’re introducing a dust entry point. I got my fuse box to actually close with an add a fuse, but there is a small bulge at the top lid and my wire is bent and pinched more than I’d like.

But, that's what they are telling us to use instead of giving us a proper way to wire it. These companies need to sell a complete kit/way to mount the stuff they are selling us. Giving me or telling me to buy and use a add a fuse instead of proper R&D to wire it correctly is just piss poor.

I want my box to be as water and dust proof/resistant as it's was designed to be and a way to connect that doesn't allow that is BS! Or pinched wires!

Just like all these companies that don't put a control panel on their product anymore or a remote with it, "just run it off an app". I don't want EVERYTHING run by an app on my phone, give me a damn control panel or remote or whatever! It's lazy and cheap on their part.

Notice "they" didn't respond to my post either. Piss poor, why should I shop them again?

 

[Dadsquatch]

But, that's what they are telling us to use instead of giving us a proper way to wire it. These companies need to sell a complete kit/way to mount the stuff they are selling us. Giving me or telling me to buy and use a add a fuse instead of proper R&D to wire it correctly is just piss poor.

I want my box to be as water and dust proof/resistant as it's was designed to be and a way to connect that doesn't allow that is BS! Or pinched wires!

Just like all these companies that don't put a control panel on their product anymore or a remote with it, "just run it off an app". I don't want EVERYTHING run by an app on my phone, give me a damn control panel or remote or whatever! It's lazy and cheap on their part.

Notice "they" didn't respond to my post either. Piss poor, why should I shop them again?

Buy this part from SPV and you’ll be all set. Will be plug & play to tie your Oracle grille lights into the parking light circuit. That’s what I did.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...kers-spv-harness-system-works-w-many-vehicles

 

[BroncoFrog]

Well you would not connect to the parking light fuse but rather tap to the parking light power lead going into the headlight. It is Position #9 on the headlight plug.

When will this be on? I am wondering about unlock, remote start, DRLs, and headlights (which I assume are the guaranteed). I know this is old but hoping for some help and clarification!

 

[Oldhippie]

Buy this part from SPV and you’ll be all set. Will be plug & play to tie your Oracle grille lights into the parking light circuit. That’s what I did.

https://specialtyperformanceparts.c...kers-spv-harness-system-works-w-many-vehicles

$50 bucks to hook up simple low power lights to a proper power source that should be included with the lights is ridiculous!

 

[ORACLE Terry]

$50 bucks to hook up simple low power lights to a proper power source that should be included with the lights is ridiculous!

It doesn't have to be a $50 part, we recommend in the instructions to use an "add-a-circuit" to this to work. I'll link to an example, here.

 

[Oldhippie]

There no fuse for the park light circuit…that would turn them on when the lights are on not all the time with a “keyed” circuit…also with a fuse tap ya need to cut/hack into the fuse box to properly get the wire out not stall plug and play…

 

[Arrowbear Rider]

There no fuse for the park light circuit…that would turn them on when the lights are on not all the time with a “keyed” circuit…also with a fuse tap ya need to cut/hack into the fuse box to properly get the wire out not stall plug and play…

It doesn't have to be a $50 part, we recommend in the instructions to use an "add-a-circuit" to this to work. I'll link to an example, here.

I've been using an "add-a-circuit" for grill lights (it came with them), and the wire prevented the box from latching close properly, (I didn't hack it up... yet) and of all the little things, whenever I saw it or thought about it, it bugged me; dust and water can get into the fuse box.

Until...

https://www.amazon.com/Mabett-Waterproof-Compatible-Accessories-Organizer/dp/B0C8JV7XCJ

I just installed today and my worries are gone. Unfortunately the black Friday price is gone too. But it's an easy fix, I don't see myself adding any more wires (aux switches), so I bought this just for the one "add a circuit".

I was waiting for that $50 part to go on sell, but it was still $45 and a solid hour or more to install, while the fuse box lid only took a couple of minutes and no tools, so there's that too.

 

[Brian_B]

I drilled a hole in the lid and used a rubber grommet the same diameter as my wire / insulation so it makes a spray-tight seal. It won’t hold up if submerse it, but if you are in that deep of water you have other issues.

I used fuse 22 (cameras) - on when truck is running.

The mabett thing is nice though, wish I had seen it first.

 

[helifino16]

If you don’t have upfitter switches, follow Oracle‘s suggestion. I connected mine to switch 5 and just leave the switch on. It comes on and shuts off with the ignition.

 

[Oldhippie]

Found this from Starkey products…
https://www.starkey-products.com/bronco/

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