Planning my Audio Upgrade, does it make sense?

[RagnarKon]

Ok got it, so if I’m using the OEM location, it will be easiest to do a two amp setup. I appreciate all the help, I think I have finally landed on my blueprint!

The ole ADD brain really took over on this brainstorm, but I think I finally herded all my mental cats into one pasture here.

When I first set out on this project, it was about creating a fuller, more high quality sound in the Bronco. Then I went all million dollar man wanting to go bigger, better, stronger, and ended up with all kinds of ideas. Finally, my illusions of grandeur wore off, and here’s what I’m thinking:

I have the 23, sub delete base system

I’m going to do the simple swap of the dummy amp and sub for the fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75” sub (4 ohms). This requires minimum effort but supplies me with bass and a fuller sound.

I’m still doing the SSV pods, and putting these audio frog 6” coax speakers in them https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS62/Audiofrog-GS62.html

For the front kick panels, I’m going with these Focal coax speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

And for the front dash location, I’m going with these audiofrog 4” coax https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS42/Audiofrog-GS42.html?tp=102

I know going components will probably lead to better sound, but in the interest of keeping it simple, I’m going with high quality coax.

Whenever I can find one, I will then add the kicker key 200.4 to power the speakers, and install that under the dash using the PnP kit. I’ve seen other videos where people install and hide the amp up there, again maintaining the hidden system.

Then wrap it all up with some ForScan wizardry courtesy of your sacred texts @RagnarKon to make sure everything operates properly.

In my mind, this setup gives me a drastically elevated system with little effort and minimal intrusion to the vehicle itself.

But my mind is not always to be trusted, so I’d love to hear opinions lol

Yeah I think you would be happy with that.

Since the Kicker 200.4 seems to have disappeared from existence... it may be a good idea just to look at other options. The AudioControl ACM-4.300 is very similar to the Kicker 200.4 and should also also give you very good results.

@plugnplaykits also has a harness/kit available for the ACM-4.300. I do not know if the ACM-4.300 will fit in the same mounting location that everyone is putting the kicker amplifier (under the steering wheel), but if not... @Mountains2Metal has an amplifier mount available to mount amps behind the glove box.

Sponsored

 

[MuthaBucker]

Yeah I think you would be happy with that.

Since the Kicker 200.4 seems to have disappeared from existence... it may be a good idea just to look at other options. The AudioControl ACM-4.300 is very similar to the Kicker 200.4 and should also also give you very good results.

@plugnplaykits also has a harness/kit available for the ACM-4.300. I do not know if the ACM-4.300 will fit in the same mounting location that everyone is putting the kicker amplifier (under the steering wheel), but if not... @Mountains2Metal has an amplifier mount available to mount amps behind the glove box.

Ok ya I was beginning to think of contingencies for the Key 200.4, and that ACM has solid reviews and looks super comparable. Wild that the DSP version is so expensive, $900 on Crutchfield!

Is it worth waiting and hoping for a kicker key to get dsp, or can I do some of that via ForScan?

Also side note to this, although this is my next project, I don’t see it happening for at least a few months. So I do have time to wait.

 

[Alex Sector]

Ok got it, so if I’m using the OEM location, it will be easiest to do a two amp setup. I appreciate all the help, I think I have finally landed on my blueprint!

The ole ADD brain really took over on this brainstorm, but I think I finally herded all my mental cats into one pasture here.

When I first set out on this project, it was about creating a fuller, more high quality sound in the Bronco. Then I went all million dollar man wanting to go bigger, better, stronger, and ended up with all kinds of ideas. Finally, my illusions of grandeur wore off, and here’s what I’m thinking:

I have the 23, sub delete base system

I’m going to do the simple swap of the dummy amp and sub for the fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75” sub (4 ohms). This requires minimum effort but supplies me with bass and a fuller sound.

I’m still doing the SSV pods, and putting these audio frog 6” coax speakers in them https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS62/Audiofrog-GS62.html

For the front kick panels, I’m going with these Focal coax speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

And for the front dash location, I’m going with these audiofrog 4” coax https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS42/Audiofrog-GS42.html?tp=102

I know going components will probably lead to better sound, but in the interest of keeping it simple, I’m going with high quality coax.

Whenever I can find one, I will then add the kicker key 200.4 to power the speakers, and install that under the dash using the PnP kit. I’ve seen other videos where people install and hide the amp up there, again maintaining the hidden system.

Then wrap it all up with some ForScan wizardry courtesy of your sacred texts @RagnarKon to make sure everything operates properly.

In my mind, this setup gives me a drastically elevated system with little effort and minimal intrusion to the vehicle itself.

But my mind is not always to be trusted, so I’d love to hear opinions lol

Why not go with the same speakers in the pods and kick panels?

Would it be possible or make any sense to try to cram components in the SSV pods? @RagnarKon

I've got my SSV pods and finally have my window sticker that shows sub delete so I bought the fusion amp and kicker sub. I haven't bought any other items yet.

 

[vicorjh]

I’m still doing the SSV pods, and putting these audio frog 6” coax speakers in them

That's what I have. FYI, the grill with the grill ring from Audiofrog will not fit as is on the SSV pods.

I removed the grill from the rings and added small dots of epoxy to secure them in place. Looks fine and is not noticeable ... if you want to use the grills.

 

[BlarneyStoned]

For the front kick panels, I’m going with these Focal coax speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

And for the front dash location, I’m going with these audiofrog 4” coax https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS42/Audiofrog-GS42.html?tp=102

If your plan is to run those off 2 channels of the Key 200.4, with the stock wiring set up you'll be giving the amp a 2 ohm load, which many have report as causing undesirable issues because the key amp is 4+ ohm only. You can rewire it to the speakers in series so that the amp sees an 8 ohm load, but you effectively reduce the power per speaker to about 25w. You may want to consider one of the focal 2-way component sets, Crutchfield will give you a mounting plate that you need to use a hole saw to prepare but it will let you get the full 50W you are expecting from the amp. Alternatively, the stock kick panel speaker is actually decent, just underpowered so just the dash coax might get you where you want to be.

 

[RagnarKon]

If you're plan is to run those off 2 channels of the Key 200.4, with the stock wiring set up you'll be giving the amp a 2 ohm load, which many have report as causing undesirable issues because the key amp is 4+ ohm only. You can rewire it to the speakers in series so that the amp sees an 8 ohm load, but you effectively reduce the power per speaker to about 25w. You may want to consider one of the focal 2-way component sets, Crutchfield will give you a mounting plate that you need to use a hole saw to prepare but it will let you get the full 50W you are expecting from the amp. Alternatively, the stock kick panel speaker is actually decent, just underpowered so just the dash coax might get you where you want to be.

Yeah that's an important one to note.

A benefit of the AudioControl ACM-4.300 is that it is designed to power 2Ω loads unlike the Kicker Key 200.4 which is limited to 4Ω or higher if you follow Kicker's documentation. I bought all of my stuff when Kicker was having an awesome holiday sale which was too good to pass up, but if that holiday sale didn't happen I likely would have gone with the AudioControl setup.

That said, I rewired the front speakers to series on the Kicker 200.4 and didn't have any issues. Talked about it on my most recent video:

 

[Pressurized]

Ok got it, so if I’m using the OEM location, it will be easiest to do a two amp setup. I appreciate all the help, I think I have finally landed on my blueprint!

The ole ADD brain really took over on this brainstorm, but I think I finally herded all my mental cats into one pasture here.

When I first set out on this project, it was about creating a fuller, more high quality sound in the Bronco. Then I went all million dollar man wanting to go bigger, better, stronger, and ended up with all kinds of ideas. Finally, my illusions of grandeur wore off, and here’s what I’m thinking:

I have the 23, sub delete base system

I’m going to do the simple swap of the dummy amp and sub for the fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75” sub (4 ohms). This requires minimum effort but supplies me with bass and a fuller sound.

I’m still doing the SSV pods, and putting these audio frog 6” coax speakers in them https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS62/Audiofrog-GS62.html

For the front kick panels, I’m going with these Focal coax speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

And for the front dash location, I’m going with these audiofrog 4” coax https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS42/Audiofrog-GS42.html?tp=102

I know going components will probably lead to better sound, but in the interest of keeping it simple, I’m going with high quality coax.

Whenever I can find one, I will then add the kicker key 200.4 to power the speakers, and install that under the dash using the PnP kit. I’ve seen other videos where people install and hide the amp up there, again maintaining the hidden system.

Then wrap it all up with some ForScan wizardry courtesy of your sacred texts @RagnarKon to make sure everything operates properly.

In my mind, this setup gives me a drastically elevated system with little effort and minimal intrusion to the vehicle itself.

But my mind is not always to be trusted, so I’d love to hear opinions lol

Just a quick FYI, the Audiofrog coax outperform many of the available component offerings. Very good speakers.
I think you’ll like where your build goes…

 

[MuthaBucker]

Yeah that's an important one to note.

A benefit of the AudioControl ACM-4.300 is that it is designed to power 2Ω loads unlike the Kicker Key 200.4 which is limited to 4Ω or higher if you follow Kicker's documentation. I bought all of my stuff when Kicker was having an awesome holiday sale which was too good to pass up, but if that holiday sale didn't happen I likely would have gone with the AudioControl setup.

That said, I rewired the front speakers to series on the Kicker 200.4 and didn't have any issues. Talked about it on my most recent video:

Ya, based on that I think I will go with the ACM. Again I want this to be a simple switch.

 

[MuthaBucker]

That's what I have. FYI, the grill with the grill ring from Audiofrog will not fit as is on the SSV pods.

I removed the grill from the rings and added small dots of epoxy to secure them in place. Looks fine and is not noticeable ... if you want to use the grills.

Wow great to know, thanks for the pro tip too

 

[ManSquatch]

Yeah that's an important one to note.

A benefit of the AudioControl ACM-4.300 is that it is designed to power 2Ω loads unlike the Kicker Key 200.4 which is limited to 4Ω or higher if you follow Kicker's documentation. I bought all of my stuff when Kicker was having an awesome holiday sale which was too good to pass up, but if that holiday sale didn't happen I likely would have gone with the AudioControl setup.

That said, I rewired the front speakers to series on the Kicker 200.4 and didn't have any issues. Talked about it on my most recent video:

Great video, what was your impression on the dash speakers at 8 ohms? I haven’t changed the kick panel yet so I’m contemplating using a mid range in series or tossing the 4” and doing a component speaker that’s 4 ohms.

 

[RagnarKon]

Great video, what was your impression on the dash speakers at 8 ohms? I haven’t changed the kick panel yet so I’m contemplating using a mid range in series or tossing the 4” and doing a component speaker that’s 4 ohms.

It made the dash speakers great!!

But it does seem like I'm not really giving the 6.75" speakers in the kick panel the power they deserve. Admittedly, part of that is because the Kicker Key 200.4 really isn't that powerful of an amp to begin with, and I suspect if I was running a slightly more powerful amp—like the Audio Control ACM-4.300—it would be fine. But changing the wiring to series definitely didn't help matters with the power delivery either.

Overall I'm happy with that trade-off because the dash speakers are by far the most impactful speakers in the sound system (both in a positive and negative way) just because you are so close to them while sitting in the front seat. Sure I may have sacrificed the 6.75" speakers a tiny bit, but fixing the issues with the 4" speakers were absolutely worth it. If I did not have the subwoofer I may feel a little bit differently since you're heavily reliant on the 6.75" speakers for bass response without a subwoofer. But with the setup I have I'm happy with the decision.

---

If I could do it all over again, I would have liked to try component speakers up front.

I installed 4" speakers in the dash because... well... that's what was there from the factory. But the factory setup was using single-cone speakers in a more tweeter-like configuration. They didn't use near-full-range coaxials I installed. As long as whatever component kit I selected had a fair amount of flexibility to tone down the volume of the tweeters from the crossover, I think it would be solid.

That said, the B&O package does use coaxials on two of the three speakers up front. So maybe coaxials wouldn't be as good as I think they would?? Not sure.

Either way, I've never tried, and I decided to cut myself off from spending more money on the sound system. So I probably will never know what it would sound like with components unless someone else tries it and I happen to be around to have an opportunity to listen to it.

 

[fallguy]

Ok got it, so if I’m using the OEM location, it will be easiest to do a two amp setup. I appreciate all the help, I think I have finally landed on my blueprint!

The ole ADD brain really took over on this brainstorm, but I think I finally herded all my mental cats into one pasture here.

When I first set out on this project, it was about creating a fuller, more high quality sound in the Bronco. Then I went all million dollar man wanting to go bigger, better, stronger, and ended up with all kinds of ideas. Finally, my illusions of grandeur wore off, and here’s what I’m thinking:

I have the 23, sub delete base system

I’m going to do the simple swap of the dummy amp and sub for the fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75” sub (4 ohms). This requires minimum effort but supplies me with bass and a fuller sound.

I’m still doing the SSV pods, and putting these audio frog 6” coax speakers in them https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS62/Audiofrog-GS62.html

For the front kick panels, I’m going with these Focal coax speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

And for the front dash location, I’m going with these audiofrog 4” coax https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS42/Audiofrog-GS42.html?tp=102

I know going components will probably lead to better sound, but in the interest of keeping it simple, I’m going with high quality coax.

Whenever I can find one, I will then add the kicker key 200.4 to power the speakers, and install that under the dash using the PnP kit. I’ve seen other videos where people install and hide the amp up there, again maintaining the hidden system.

Then wrap it all up with some ForScan wizardry courtesy of your sacred texts @RagnarKon to make sure everything operates properly.

In my mind, this setup gives me a drastically elevated system with little effort and minimal intrusion to the vehicle itself.

But my mind is not always to be trusted, so I’d love to hear opinions lol

I used Kicker CS in front, kick, and rear with Mabett pods. Anyone who has used similar and then then the speakers in this post, is there a clear and obvious difference in quality and volume? I have the Kicker 200.4 powering the front and kick panel speakers.

If there is a good enough difference I would be willing to swap out all 6 and upgrade them. I am pretty happy with what I have, but this could be a 20 min job for better sound.

And not to hijack this thread... maybe learning for all. Can I power the rear pods with my second amp that is connected to my 12" sub, but still have the fad/balance/DSP/etc that they have when connected stock? I move the sound front or back depending if my 6yo is in his car seat right by the rear 6.5" pod. When alone I like more sound to the back, and when he is in there with me, more sound to the front as to not make him deaf hah.

If your plan is to run those off 2 channels of the Key 200.4, with the stock wiring set up you'll be giving the amp a 2 ohm load, which many have report as causing undesirable issues because the key amp is 4+ ohm only. You can rewire it to the speakers in series so that the amp sees an 8 ohm load, but you effectively reduce the power per speaker to about 25w. You may want to consider one of the focal 2-way component sets, Crutchfield will give you a mounting plate that you need to use a hole saw to prepare but it will let you get the full 50W you are expecting from the amp. Alternatively, the stock kick panel speaker is actually decent, just underpowered so just the dash coax might get you where you want to be.

And damn, this post just blew my mind. I'm confused. I wired the speakers with the same male/female plugs that they use, should I have connected them differently? I used the supplied wiring harness like in the above video from RagnarKon. That audiofrog looks to be a deeper speaker than the stock or Kicker CS, it fits in the front dash no problems?

 

[KirchTX]

Ok got it, so if I’m using the OEM location, it will be easiest to do a two amp setup. I appreciate all the help, I think I have finally landed on my blueprint!

The ole ADD brain really took over on this brainstorm, but I think I finally herded all my mental cats into one pasture here.

When I first set out on this project, it was about creating a fuller, more high quality sound in the Bronco. Then I went all million dollar man wanting to go bigger, better, stronger, and ended up with all kinds of ideas. Finally, my illusions of grandeur wore off, and here’s what I’m thinking:

I have the 23, sub delete base system

I’m going to do the simple swap of the dummy amp and sub for the fusion amp and the Kicker 6.75” sub (4 ohms). This requires minimum effort but supplies me with bass and a fuller sound.

I’m still doing the SSV pods, and putting these audio frog 6” coax speakers in them https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS62/Audiofrog-GS62.html

For the front kick panels, I’m going with these Focal coax speakers https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091ACX165/Focal-ACX-165.html

And for the front dash location, I’m going with these audiofrog 4” coax https://www.crutchfield.com/p_898GS42/Audiofrog-GS42.html?tp=102

I know going components will probably lead to better sound, but in the interest of keeping it simple, I’m going with high quality coax.

Whenever I can find one, I will then add the kicker key 200.4 to power the speakers, and install that under the dash using the PnP kit. I’ve seen other videos where people install and hide the amp up there, again maintaining the hidden system.

Then wrap it all up with some ForScan wizardry courtesy of your sacred texts @RagnarKon to make sure everything operates properly.

In my mind, this setup gives me a drastically elevated system with little effort and minimal intrusion to the vehicle itself.

But my mind is not always to be trusted, so I’d love to hear opinions lol

Did you complete your install?

This was a very useful thread in learning how it all works. You're the kid asking questions that benefit the whole class lol

I'm considering an install with a similar budget and was looking at Audiofrog as well. I was chatting with Crutchfield rep and they recommended this amp with it's built in DSP and can run a sub as well, but I imagine it's too big to really fit it anywhere other than under a seat.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXEC808/Alpine-PXE-C80-88.html

Trying to build out a stealth install with a little higher end components is pretty difficult.

 

[MuthaBucker]

Did you complete your install?

This was a very useful thread in learning how it all works. You're the kid asking questions that benefit the whole class lol

I'm considering an install with a similar budget and was looking at Audiofrog as well. I was chatting with Crutchfield rep and they recommended this amp with it's built in DSP and can run a sub as well, but I imagine it's too big to really fit it anywhere other than under a seat.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXEC808/Alpine-PXE-C80-88.html

Trying to build out a stealth install with a little higher end components is pretty difficult.

I have not done the install yet lol, unfortunately I’m not in spot to make it happen right now. I will certainly update the thread when I get it in.

I was also having a hard time finding a stealthy setup, but with the input from all the awesome folks here I’m feeling confident with this build. Now just waiting until it makes sense for me.

Stupid financial responsibility lol

 

[Area51BS]

One step better would be to build some passive x-overs. The 6-1/2 in kick panel speakers should do mid bass only and the dash should do the mid/highs. Your set up would have mid/highs coming from a kick panel and the same from dash. Not that it bad. But cleans it up a bit not sending the same sound to your ankles. It’s a cheap experiment to try.

Sponsored