Quick disconnects sta-bar

[srick76]

Anyone using quick disconnects for the front factory stabilizer bar? I don’t want to completely remove it to keep the highway driving the same. (Brands and reviews if possible.)

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[SierraBronco]

I feel like there was a recent thread on this, or just one that got revived. Basically people are going to say:

1-Quick disconnects are a pain in the ass

B-Quick disconnects are fine and not a pain in the ass

-Just add the electronic swaybar and hook it up to aux switch

Cat-Remove the swaybar completely

E-Get a rockjock front swaybar

• Get Boss 4x4 links

Boss links give more articulation than stock but not as much as a delete. Improves ride. Will need servicing. Painfree besides initial install and service.

Electro disconnect is nice as you can disconnect at any speed. Added complexity. Added weight. Seems possible there is questionable reliability

Remove completely is nice if you have a rear swaybar. But people will also say you’re basically turning your car into a Reliant Robin and will die on the first attempted turn. If you have done puck spacers in your suspension you might overextend your CV’s without the swaybar acting as a kind of limiting strap.

Rockjock is nice because more articulation but still get effects of swaybar.

 

[Oldhippie]

There is probably a reason there s only one manual disconnect out there…I added the stock badlands one on a switch and very happy…

 

[B22-2023]

There is probably a reason there is only one manual disconnect out there…I added the stock badlands one on a switch and very happy…

I’m manual. PLM. Took 15 minutes to install, 2 minutes to disconnect while airing down. Great on back roads to improve drive - don’t change flex or anything on my rig. Reconnect for sure speeding around town.

I will eventually just put this Boss links on because these are functional but clunky. For me putting on electrical would be overkill, and that’s saying something.

 

[srick76]

I feel like there was a recent thread on this, or just one that got revived. Basically people are going to say:

1-Quick disconnects are a pain in the ass

B-Quick disconnects are fine and not a pain in the ass

-Just add the electronic swaybar and hook it up to aux switch

Cat-Remove the swaybar completely

E-Get a rockjock front swaybar

• Get Boss 4x4 links

Boss links give more articulation than stock but not as much as a delete. Improves ride. Will need servicing. Painfree besides initial install and service.

Electro disconnect is nice as you can disconnect at any speed. Added complexity. Added weight. Seems possible there is questionable reliability

Remove completely is nice if you have a rear swaybar. But people will also say you’re basically turning your car into a Reliant Robin and will die on the first attempted turn. If you have done puck spacers in your suspension you might overextend your CV’s without the swaybar acting as a kind of limiting strap.

Rockjock is nice because more articulation but still get effects of swaybar.

I like the Rockjock but a little pricey. Electronic is out.

I feel like there was a recent thread on this, or just one that got revived. Basically people are going to say:

1-Quick disconnects are a pain in the ass

B-Quick disconnects are fine and not a pain in the ass

-Just add the electronic swaybar and hook it up to aux switch

Cat-Remove the swaybar completely

E-Get a rockjock front swaybar

• Get Boss 4x4 links

Boss links give more articulation than stock but not as much as a delete. Improves ride. Will need servicing. Painfree besides initial install and service.

Electro disconnect is nice as you can disconnect at any speed. Added complexity. Added weight. Seems possible there is questionable reliability

Remove completely is nice if you have a rear swaybar. But people will also say you’re basically turning your car into a Reliant Robin and will die on the first attempted turn. If you have done puck spacers in your suspension you might overextend your CV’s without the swaybar acting as a kind of limiting strap.

Rockjock is nice because more articulation but still get effects of swaybar.

I’m manual. PLM. Took 15 minutes to install, 2 minutes to disconnect while airing down. Great on back roads to improve drive - don’t change flex or anything on my rig. Reconnect for sure speeding around town.

I will eventually just put this Boss links on because these are functional but clunky. For me putting on electrical would be overkill, and that’s saying something.

That’s one I was looking at. No problems w them?

 

[Oldhippie]

I’m manual. PLM. Took 15 minutes to install, 2 minutes to disconnect while airing down. Great on back roads to improve drive - don’t change flex or anything on my rig. Reconnect for sure speeding around town.

I will eventually just put this Boss links on because these are functional but clunky. For me putting on electrical would be overkill, and that’s saying something.

Wow! You are first person I have heard about that is happy with it…good luck!

 

[srick76]

Leaning towards the Boss links now, never really looked at them before.

 

[MJ12]

Probably best off to spend the extra and get the electronic one from a badlands and wired to a switch...

 

[dcaero]

I've spent a year with the disconnected links from AcFab. Disconnecting and reconnecting is fine, so long as you find flat ground when reconnecting. But man are they clunky under normal operations, and make plenty of creaking noises.

For this reason, I have the OEM electric disconnect arriving today in fact and will be installing to an aux switch

 

[87-Z28]

The sway bar transfers loads between the wheels (left/right), and thus limits displacements, as the wheels move in opposite directions. If both wheels are at same elevation (at ride height) then no load is transferred. As one wheel moves opposite to the other (on a left/right slope) the links of the bar become loaded. Hence the greater ease of disconnecting on flat ground.

As vehicle moves on nearly any surface the sway bar links will constantly cycle through load/unload even under small levels of articulation. The oem links/bushings provide flexibility and smooth absorption of loading cycles. A heim joint in this application will more rigidly transfer cyclical loading. Not ideal for street use, will be noisy and require maintenance.

not sure how maintenance free the boss links are??? However they do offer 3 inches of free articulation at low off-road end-link shock velocities. But still offer resistance to articulation at higher on-road shock velocities. Wheel articulation curve moves from oem to boss link curve based on end-link shock velocity. See figure.

There is nothing magical about the Rockjock bar. It is 0.875” diameter and thus provides significantly less torsional resistance than the 1.375” oem bar (4th power), and thus increased displacement. It is fairly expensive and can have some clearance issues for >25 mm offset wheels. I wish someone would make an OEM like bar that is between 7/8 to 1 inch in diameter.

the attached figure shows some basic sway bar math (wheel articulation vs loads in the links). It is easy to see that the heavy handed oem safety conscious 1.375” bar produces significant load (>100 lbs) for small articulations (<0.5”). That’s gonna make disconnecting difficult for small displacements. A 7/8” bar produces 5-6 times the flexibility of the oem bar. It also provides greater flexibility than boss links for off-road levels of articulation, (>2 inches). That is the way I would go if you can deal with the increased sway on the road.

 

[Arokcrwlr]

I like the Rockjock but a little pricey. Electronic is out.


That’s one I was looking at. No problems w them?

If you'd like to try these, I have a brand new never installed set that I'll send you for $50 shipped.

ETA: These being the PLM ones

 

[B22-2023]

The sway bar transfers loads between the wheels (left/right), and thus limits displacements, as the wheels move in opposite directions. If both wheels are at same elevation (at ride height) then no load is transferred. As one wheel moves opposite to the other (on a left/right slope) the links of the bar become loaded. Hence the greater ease of disconnecting on flat ground.

As vehicle moves on nearly any surface the sway bar links will constantly cycle through load/unload even under small levels of articulation. The oem links/bushings provide flexibility and smooth absorption of loading cycles. A heim joint in this application will more rigidly transfer cyclical loading. Not ideal for street use, will be noisy and require maintenance.

not sure how maintenance free the boss links are??? However they do offer 3 inches of free articulation at low off-road end-link shock velocities. But still offer resistance to articulation at higher on-road shock velocities. Wheel articulation curve moves from oem to boss link curve based on end-link shock velocity. See figure.

There is nothing magical about the Rockjock bar. It is 0.875” diameter and thus provides significantly less torsional resistance than the 1.375” oem bar (4th power), and thus increased displacement. It is fairly expensive and can have some clearance issues for >25 mm offset wheels. I wish someone would make an OEM like bar that is between 7/8 to 1 inch in diameter.

the attached figure shows some basic sway bar math (wheel articulation vs loads in the links). It is easy to see that the heavy handed oem safety conscious 1.375” bar produces significant load (>100 lbs) for small articulations (<0.5”). That’s gonna make disconnecting difficult for small displacements. A 7/8” bar produces 5-6 times the flexibility of the oem bar. It also provides greater flexibility than boss links for off-road levels of articulation, (>2 inches). That is the way I would go if you can deal with the increased sway on the road.

Thanks for the math and the primer.

I like the Rockjock but a little pricey. Electronic is out.


That’s one I was looking at. No problems w them?

No problems, just clunky under normal driving as others agree. Not every minute of the day, they just remind you there are there when parking or backing up and turning the wheel. An occasional wipe down and shot of lithium grease spray on the joints. I don’t like the sway feel when home so I always reconnect them.

 

[srick76]

Damn.. noisy is going to drive me crazy. @dcaero what did the OE disconnect cost you? I assumed it would be out based on price to purchase not even figuring if I did the install myself.

 

[dcaero]

Damn.. noisy is going to drive me crazy. @dcaero what did the OE disconnect cost you? I assumed it would be out based on price to purchase not even figuring if I did the install myself.

Ya the clunking made me crazy. Even my wife noticed it, and she never notices that kind of thing.

$1250 plus a $20 connector on eBay, and some heat protection tubing.

And if you have any skid plates there, you may need to change that one out as the electric disconnect hangs a touch lower than the standard swaybar.

 

[srick76]

Ya the clunking made me crazy. Even my wife noticed it, and she never notices that kind of thing.

$1250 plus a $20 connector on eBay, and some heat protection tubing.

And if you have any skid plates there, you may need to change that one out as the electric disconnect hangs a touch lower than the standard swaybar.

Did you have the modules reprogrammed so the computer knows you have it. And reconnects at 20mph and shows up on the display it’s disconnected or does it just act independently w the switch with no interaction w computer etc.

How about the airlinks, anyone hear how they are?

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