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OP
OP
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- Amanda
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- Corsicana Texas
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- Outer Banks
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- #17
Just got back from Moab and ended up disconnecting my sway bar manually using Velcro straps to hold them in place for the week and reconnecting them before we headed home. It worked well having them disconnected but it did have quite a bit of body roll at highway speeds making turns. I have a 2021 so no rear sway bar so we reconnected before heading home to Texas.
We did have the bust out the jack to be able to reconnect them easier. I think that would have been necessary with or without the quick disconnect. Worth it for the week we spent in Moab but probably not worth it for day trips.
We still pulled a tire 3-4 feet in the air on Top of the World so glad we disconnected, probably would have flipped it without disconnecting.
We did have the bust out the jack to be able to reconnect them easier. I think that would have been necessary with or without the quick disconnect. Worth it for the week we spent in Moab but probably not worth it for day trips.
We still pulled a tire 3-4 feet in the air on Top of the World so glad we disconnected, probably would have flipped it without disconnecting.
Do you notice with the AC fabs when they are connected and you are on a bumpy road or on the paved road that they are very noisy?
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- Chris
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You gotta keep them lubed up and make sure the o-ring is intact. I personally used a liberal amount of fluid film. Have a pair of gloves and a rag on hand for removal/reconnecting.
He also recently updated the upper heim to be studded as opposed to bolted. Supposedly more articulation and less likely to fail.
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- Joined
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Yes, they were noisy on all surfaces. I lubed them up but it didn't make it fully go away. It wasn't a huge issue but it was noticeable. I still run them disconnected all the time which eliminates the noise.
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Save yourself the hassle, and get a Curry AntiRock. I have tried disconnects, and they wear out and eventually fail. Once the Antirock is appropriately adjusted, you will never even think about your sway bar being gone. I love mine; the vehicle is always planted, and you never have to worry about your sway re-engaging. In my opinion, the disconnects are a pain in the butt to use as well.Has anyone seen these sway bar quick disconnects from PLM? https://privatelabelmfg.com/product...AGUQNDYieF86f1_jgY-INblQC_Tk7Z-L3KHZsbcsdqZ8c
Quite interested since they are currently almost half the price of the ones ACFab offers but are in pre-order Thoughts?
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- Brent
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How did you disconnect it? I tried on my Heritage on one side and could only get it to come an inch up in the hole through the lower control arm. Not even close to all the way out. I had one side of the car jacked up until the wheel was off the ground.Just got back from Moab and ended up disconnecting my sway bar manually using Velcro straps to hold them in place for the week and reconnecting them before we headed home. It worked well having them disconnected but it did have quite a bit of body roll at highway speeds making turns. I have a 2021 so no rear sway bar so we reconnected before heading home to Texas.
We did have the bust out the jack to be able to reconnect them easier. I think that would have been necessary with or without the quick disconnect. Worth it for the week we spent in Moab but probably not worth it for day trips.
We still pulled a tire 3-4 feet in the air on Top of the World so glad we disconnected, probably would have flipped it without disconnecting.
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- Chris
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- Black Diamond
V2.0 is MUCH better.
A big shout out to Oscar for always standing behind his product. I installed one of his v1.0 sets early on and he never missed a beat when a component failed or needed an upgrade. Now I’m essentially running the newest model with shorter aluminum body (so much easier to adjust, no rust and all left handed threaded), studded upper heims and welded lower brackets. The quality and sourcing of the heims is so much better this time around.
A big shout out to Oscar for always standing behind his product. I installed one of his v1.0 sets early on and he never missed a beat when a component failed or needed an upgrade. Now I’m essentially running the newest model with shorter aluminum body (so much easier to adjust, no rust and all left handed threaded), studded upper heims and welded lower brackets. The quality and sourcing of the heims is so much better this time around.
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