Snacktime's Metalcloak Undercloak armor skidplates - install/dents/wear and tear

[da_jokker]

@Razorbak86 So you have the JCR's.... How do You like them?

I'm torn between the JCRs and the Metal cloaks. I like the JCRs have a front skid and you can change your oil without having to remove any skid plates. But I like how the metal cloak goes all the way to the edge (aka boat). Looked like the JCR at least cover those braces I get hung up on everything.

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[Razorbak86]

@Razorbak86 So you have the JCR's.... How do You like them?

I'm torn between the JCRs and the Metal cloaks. I like the JCRs have a front skid and you can change your oil without having to remove any skid plates. But I like how the metal cloak goes all the way to the edge (aka boat). Looked like the JCR at least cover those braces I get hung up on everything.

I like the JCRs. In general, they are very well designed, sturdy, and protective. The skids for the lower front control arms are easy to install and very protective. Not many kits have addressed those potential damage areas. And the rear lower shock skids are perfectly designed to protect those areas, too.

The main downside is they are heavy and difficult to install without help. For example, the engine skid alone weighs 63 lbs. So I am going to buy a short transmission jack to help when removing and installing in the future, simply to lift and support the heavier plates and make them easier to position before the first fasteners are loosely fitted. Once the fasteners are started, the rest of the installation is easy.

Although there is room to remove the oil plug on my 2.7L engine, and I *can* change the oil by accessing the plug from the side without removing the engine skid, I plan to remove the skid plate when I do my first oil change, simply to avoid making a mess because of the gusher that spits out uncontrollably with the plastic replaceable plugs from the factory. I have a Ronin oil change plug waiting to be reinstalled, and once that is in place, oil changes will be much easier using a clear vinyl hose connected to the nipple and simply run out to a catch pan off to the side of the vehicle.

 

[Razorbak86]

@SubmarineNuke, I noticed you’ve returned from your trip to Colorado. Did you ever get this alignment issue resolved? Was the floor jack suggestion below helpful?

Question: Have you considered using a floor jack to press that skid plate up against the opposing force of the vehicle’s weight to try to close the gap and get that last bolt through?

In that middle photo, it looks like the bolt hole in the skid and the slot in the bracket are pretty closely aligned horizontally, so all it needs to do is move upwards to close the gap. This might work, if all the other bolts are loosened to allow for a little more slack in the system. I realize these are heavy steel plates, but as you no doubt know already, given your background, they will flex and bend with a little persuasion, and sometimes a floor jack, pry bar, ratchet strap, or BFH can suffice in a pinch.

Alternatively, if that isn’t possible, you may be able to get a local fabricator to make a longer bracket to replace the MC bracket. It’s a fairly simple bracket with one hole, one slot, and a 90-degree angle. Any fabricator or machine shop with a large press brake should be able to make one that fits fairly easily.

Good luck on getting past this final obstacle, and thanks for sharing your journey.

 

[SubmarineNuke]

@SubmarineNuke, I noticed you’ve returned from your trip to Colorado. Did you ever get this alignment issue resolved? Was the floor jack suggestion below helpful?

I didn’t really try tbh. And I was using a floor Jack to lift the plates into place. I don’t know that they’d work sideways……that said, I haven’t had time to get under it since I got home to look and see how they faired. But damn was Colorado fun!

 

[Razorbak86]

I didn’t really try tbh. And I was using a floor Jack to lift the plates into place. I don’t know that they’d work sideways……that said, I haven’t had time to get under it since I got home to look and see how they faired. But damn was Colorado fun!

Glad you enjoyed your trip.

Another possible solution would be to loosen the bracket bolt to lower the bracket enough to slip the horizontal bolt in place and engage the threads. Then use the floor jack directly beneath the skid plate under the bracket to press upwards against the weight of the vehicle, and then tighten the bracket bolt. If you slowly alternate between the jack and the bracket bolt, instead of just trying to close the gap with the bracket bolt alone, you may be able to completely close that gap without over stressing the bracket bolt. Just food for thought.

Good luck getting it resolved.

 

[SubmarineNuke]

Glad you enjoyed your trip.

Another possible solution would be to loosen the bracket bolt to lower the bracket enough to slip the horizontal bolt in place and engage the threads. Then use the floor jack directly beneath the skid plate under the bracket to press upwards against the weight of the vehicle, and then tighten the bracket bolt. If you slowly alternate between the jack and the bracket bolt, insteadof just trying to close the gap with the bracket bolt alone, you may Be able to completely close that gap. Just food for thought.

Good luck getting it resolved.

I think it’s the photo angle that might lead one to believe it’s not lined up, but I’m almost 100% certain it is lined up, just not close enough for the bolt. And no matter which way I rotate that bracket mount it doesn’t make a difference. It’s all good. I’m not upset, and it’s likely my fault and someone somewhere else has to be loosened and it would slide right in. But damn if I don’t wanna get under there again with temps over 100 degrees on the daily.

 

[Razorbak86]

I think it’s the photo angle that might lead one to believe it’s not lined up, but I’m almost 100% certain it is lined up, just not close enough for the bolt. And no matter which way I rotate that bracket mount it doesn’t make a difference. It’s all good. I’m not upset, and it’s likely my fault and someone somewhere else has to be loosened and it would slide right in. But damn if I don’t wanna get under there again with temps over 100 degrees on the daily.

I think you misunderstood my suggestions. I agree that the bracket slot and skid plate hole are already aligned horizontally. They are simply misaligned vertically. Rotating the bracket won’t help, because that will only shift the bracket slot left or right, which doesn’t solve the problem.

Either the bracket needs to come down by loosening the bracket bolt, or the skid plate needs to move up towards the bracket, or a combination of both.

What I am suggesting is to loosen the bracket bolt significantly to close the vertical gap, but where the thread is still engaged, and then press up on the skid plate directly beneath the bracket with the floor jack. As soon as the gap closes enough to engage the horizontal bolt between the plate and bracket, you can start applying more upwards pressure with additional pumps of the jack lever while you tighten back up the bracket bolt. Basically, let the leverage of the jack do the hard work for you. If you can close the gap by ~3/16”, you can engage the bracket/plate bolt, and you’ll be halfway home.

Hopefully the marked-up photo below will explain what I mean visually…

 

[0ne]

@Snacktime, @SubmarineNuke, @Murfman, @Razorbak86
Anybody with these full skids, JCR or Metalcloak, etc experience any increase in operating temperatures of engine or especially transmission? Thx

 

[Razorbak86]

@Snacktime, @SubmarineNuke, @Murfman, @Razorbak86
Anybody with these full skids, JCR or Metalcloak, etc experience any increase in operating temperatures of engine or especially transmission? Thx

I monitor temperatures, voltages, and tire pressures via the Off-Roading screen, and I haven’t noticed any increase in temperatures in the drivetrain with JcrOffroad skids installed. Heat rises, the skids are below the drivetrain, and there is still plenty of air flow with the plates underneath.

 

[SubmarineNuke]

@Snacktime, @SubmarineNuke, @Murfman, @Razorbak86
Anybody with these full skids, JCR or Metalcloak, etc experience any increase in operating temperatures of engine or especially transmission? Thx

Nope. Nothing out of the ordinary.

 

[Snacktime]

@Snacktime, @SubmarineNuke, @Murfman, @Razorbak86
Anybody with these full skids, JCR or Metalcloak, etc experience any increase in operating temperatures of engine or especially transmission? Thx

No issues with 100F+ and sitting in traffic for hours. I have checked the skid plate over the catalytic converter and it's hot but no where near hot enough to cause brush to catch fire.

 

[Snacktime]

Update, installed skids on my new Bronco. First I cleaned the motor oil off, then decided to document my trail rash.

 

[Snacktime]

Went on fairly easy at first...

No issues with used hardware, rubbed a good amount of this one.

This was a 4 letter word. 30 minutes with a 18mm wench 1/8 turn at a time.

 

[Snacktime]

For all those buying these, factory fuel tank skid makes this more difficult. I would say it added an hour. Lots of hammering and spud wrench prying. I am still missing one bolt, I'm going to redrill the hole and put a larger bolt in. Otherwise no big issues, I do forsee dropping skids becoming more difficult as I beat them up more.

 

[Snacktime]

After the Rubicon, definitely lost some gold and starting to deform. I thought I would pull the factory fuel tank skid to save weight, but it's staying for more protection.

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