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BigMeatsBronco

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My experience with 30,000 miles on the Spicer rear 2DR shaft has been a negative one... it works better for you more door folks, but the 2dr blows the boot on the transfer case side right away...just like the oem one did. as soon a s you lift the rear 2" the upper joints boot is junk. the joint can handle the angle, but the boot cannot.

this is the main reason I'm going to the Double Carton 1350 like spicer originally advertised.

I'll run my spicer shaft with the U60 for a few days while I wait for the Ford F-series 32 spline output shaft flange to arrive...this allows the use of a double carton 1350 joint. they can handle 32 degrees.
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My experience with 30,000 miles on the Spicer rear 2DR shaft has been a negative one... it works better for you more door folks, but the 2dr blows the boot on the transfer case side right away...just like the oem one did. as soon a s you lift the rear 2" the upper joints boot is junk. the joint can handle the angle, but the boot cannot.

this is the main reason I'm going to the Double Carton 1350 like spicer originally advertised.

I'll run my spicer shaft with the U60 for a few days while I wait for the Ford F-series 32 spline output shaft flange to arrive...this allows the use of a double carton 1350 joint. they can handle 32 degrees.
Thanks for chiming in! I know you’ve been running yours a minute. Curious what your rear droop is compared to factory?
 

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yes, that's what I'm having g built. the flange/yoke on the Bronco awd transfer case is the normal 32 spline HD that dodge and F-series used for many years. ....the difference is the seal surface area is a different size ID. so new seal will be sourced next week when the goodies arrive. additional these flanges also have a different spline depth as well. some easy machine work will fix this.

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Unfortunately, no. Tom Woods would have been my first choice. Someone posted a lettered response form Tom Wood's Shop that basically said Ford & Spicer were being stingy with selling parts (Ford flanges I imagine) & they have decided not to pursue it further :(
no current available double cardan yoke (1350 sized) bolts up the the oem Bronco flange, and the aftermarket/other OEMs 32 spline flanges are slightly different...so a new part actually needs made here, not an off-the-shelf part.
 

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yes, that's what I'm having g built. the flange/yoke on the Bronco awd transfer case is the normal 32 spline HD that dodge and F-series used for many years. ....the difference is the seal surface area is a different size ID. so new seal will be sourced next week when the goodies arrive. additional these flanges also have a different spline depth as well. some easy machine work will fix this.
Is this what 5G Broncos ran? might have one in the garage in a box. went on the Borg warner 1350 and the NP208 T-case.
 

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My experience with 30,000 miles on the Spicer rear 2DR shaft has been a negative one... it works better for you more door folks, but the 2dr blows the boot on the transfer case side right away...just like the oem one did. as soon a s you lift the rear 2" the upper joints boot is junk. the joint can handle the angle, but the boot cannot.
More door for the win!(calm down 2 door guys)

That's ridiculous that a small 2 inch lift is causing that much issue.
 

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no current available double cardan yoke (1350 sized) bolts up the the oem Bronco flange, and the aftermarket/other OEMs 32 spline flanges are slightly different...so a new part actually needs made here, not an off-the-shelf part.
Once again nothing is just easy with these broncos.
 

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Alrighty, I went ahead and installed my Spicer rear driveshaft
The main reason I got this is the ability to swap out that U-Joint in case of a failure as I plan to be doing some HD upgrades soon and snapping a driveshaft sucks if it’s not fixable. The OEM unit was serving me well though with 40k miles on it. The goal is for this to last longer.
Sry, Real novice question:
Is the point of this incase you bang it on a rock it will have less chance to bend or break?
Or are there other benifits?
 
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Sry, Real novice question:
Is the point of this incase you bang it on a rock it will have less chance to bend or break?
Or are there other benifits?
So on the trail driveshafts can snap sometimes. Typically this happens at the joint due to excessive load, similar to a cv axle. On the OEM shaft, the joint is not replaceable. On the Spicer, the lower joint is replaceable. It can easily be done in the field in 30 minutes or less.
The slip yoke got moved further back too so it’s less susceptible to hits. The OEM shaft is honestly plenty fine and I havnt broken it. Odds are, you can just keep it! I’m just into trying things out on the market and hasn’t heard anything about the Spicer yet so here we are
 

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I'm on my 4th rear driveshaft (2dr sas no additional lift). I purchased the spicer shaft about 400 miles ago because the Ford ones bust the tcase side cv boot. Not building confidence the spicer shaft will last any better. Seems like every time I go to Moab it comes back with the rubber tcase side boot cracked. I'm tired of going to the dealer.
 

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Does any have the length of the 2dr rear drive shaft flange to flange? Either transfer case (full time or part time). Not sure the length changes much if any.
 

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I'm on my 4th rear driveshaft (2dr sas no additional lift). I purchased the spicer shaft about 400 miles ago because the Ford ones bust the tcase side cv boot. Not building confidence the spicer shaft will last any better. Seems like every time I go to Moab it comes back with the rubber tcase side boot cracked. I'm tired of going to the dealer.
I think @BigMeatsBronco has had issues with that boot also. Don’t think it can take very high angles. I think he is running a 2+ inch lower shock mount relocation so has greater angles than you do.
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