Very basic sub install for B&O/Lux pack

[ncarter124]

Got a 2024 Badlands with the literal garbage B&O system and lux pack if that matters. Looking to replace the entire system but first is the sub. My loose understanding is that the factory B&O "amp" has to stay due to it controlling essentially the entire system... so then I would tie in the new amp and sub behind the B&O amp and then get power and signal before or after the B&O amp? Sorry if its a super basic setup, this is my first time doing any car audio whatsoever. Thanks!

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[Valhalla]

Do a google search include Bronco6G, there are a ton of write ups on here.

 

[ncarter124]

Do a google search include Bronco6G, there are a ton of write ups on here.

Yup I've read a dozen of them and still trying to figure this out since they seem to conflict somewhat regarding the nuance of the amp itself. Several are for a base, then there is something with the lux package that keeps getting mentioned so I assume that matters but I don't know how, then you have people reusing the factory amp, some install the Kicker 200.1 and 500.1 which I believe are more than just a standard amp, then there is something with Forscan but I don't know if it's required, if it's only required for B&O, only for B&O with lux.... stuff like that. Just trying to get an answer for a basic question is all.

 

[Valhalla]

I understand. I have been focusing my money elsewhere but will be getting to this. I fixed a ton of rattle by pulling the panel and putting in some foam dampening I had and retorquing the bolt on the sub. Don't know if that helps but worth a try.

 

[ncarter124]

I just found a video of someone overhauling the entire system and I've decided that I am just going to hire someone, not going to deal with all of the work required to improve it.

I understand. I have been focusing my money elsewhere but will be getting to this. I fixed a ton of rattle by pulling the panel and putting in some foam dampening I had and retorquing the bolt on the sub. Don't know if that helps but worth a try.

Thanks, I just found a video of a guy doing the entire system and that was enough to force me to just hire some place to gut it all and put in all new. I was hoping it wouldn't be an insane process as I had feared but it turns out it is, so that's what I am going to do. Sucks but I just don't have it in me to tackle this.

 

[Mjasi3]

As a Bno owner … From what I gathered, a 200.1 or 500.1 amps and forscan edits have nothing to do with the BNO system. Do some more searches. If they mention the above, it’s not for the BNO

 

[ncarter124]

As a Bno owner … From what I gathered, a 200.1 or 500.1 amps and forscan edits have nothing to do with the BNO system. Do some more searches. If they mention the above, it’s not for the BNO

Yeah I just gave up on the idea. I have researched for dozens of hours to no avail. I'll just stay stock. Been at this for a month and just can't get anyone to help so whatever, B&O forever.

 

[Mjasi3]

Yeah I just gave up on the idea. I have researched for dozens of hours to no avail. I'll just stay stock. Been at this for a month and just can't get anyone to help so whatever, B&O forever.

The 2 ways I've "found" is a plugnplay kit (no DSP, ~$700-1000), and mobridge (has DSP, ~$1900 kit). Both would have you run a new power cable from the battery to the back subwoofer. Both would have you "T" into head unit and wire back to the subwoofer.

Here a recent install of the mobridge... it was mentioned in another post... with @RAGNAR (I think that's the right tag...)

Watch the Vid. it explains very well how the BnO works.

Update your rear pods as a start. 6" SSV's help a lot.

 

[Brian_B]

There are a few “plug and play” kits for the B&O that make this an easy DIY project. Look for @mObridge around here

If you aren’t afraid of pulling the trim panels it can save you a ton of money.

 

[ncarter124]

The 2 ways I've "found" is a plugnplay kit (no DSP, ~$700-1000), and mobridge (has DSP, ~$1900 kit). Both would have you run a new power cable from the battery to the back subwoofer. Both would have you "T" into head unit and wire back to the subwoofer.

Here a recent install of the mobridge... it was mentioned in another post... with @RAGNAR (I think that's the right tag...)

Watch the Vid. it explains very well how the BnO works.

Update your rear pods as a start. 6" SSV's help a lot.

Haha, I just watched that video (had watched bits and pieces before but this time I watched it all) and it 100% sold me on not touching anything with the entire system.

 

[ncarter124]

There are a few “plug and play” kits for the B&O that make this an easy DIY project. Look for @mObridge around here

If you aren’t afraid of pulling the trim panels it can save you a ton of money.

Yup for like $1600+. I was considering m0bridge assuming they had a price that was at least vaguely sane, but no.... I'd rather just have the B&O at this point. I don't have it in me to pull panels and deal with all of these issues like the bass roll-off and Forscan adjustments and so on. I am just going to keep it 100% stock and forget this entire idea that I had

 

[foreWard]

I'll second on the SSV's. Just did the pods with the kicker speakers. Made a big enough difference that I just ordered the front kicker replacements from Trailseven. Those haven't come in yet, but at the moment, I am looking to get the best sound from basic plug and play stuff. Once I get the front 5 kicker speakers in, I will look into the sub. Was hoping I could do a kicker 8" RT in the stock spot and get enough out of that to suffice for a while, but it seems like you will not get much improvement there without going the amp/sub combo route for ~$2000..... Just my initial thoughts from a little bit of research on my end. I know nothing about wiring amps and whatnot, so that is why I am hesitant to go down that road...

 

[brkdncr]

The dsp/amp either is replaced or you pull full range signal from a different speaker channel, since the sub channel is tweaked.

if you have a 4dr just get the Mobridge amp and front speakers to start. Alternatively you can source your own dsp and amp(s).

you’ll need to decide how much effort you want to put into the sub. The stock sub box can be modified to work with other subs. Other boxes exist, 2-3 to fit in the stock location or a few that hang on the tailgate, but can be size much larger.

 

[Brian_B]

Yup for like $1600+. I was considering m0bridge assuming they had a price that was at least vaguely sane, but no.... I'd rather just have the B&O at this point. I don't have it in me to pull panels and deal with all of these issues like the bass roll-off and Forscan adjustments and so on. I am just going to keep it 100% stock and forget this entire idea that I had

I can respect that. The B&O is more expensive to upgrade because of that DSP/Amp.

You ~could~ just throw a Kicker 500.1 on the sub and a 8” kicker in the box, but you have to get creative with amp mounting since that B&O is in the way.

 

[brkdncr]

Yup for like $1600+. I was considering m0bridge assuming they had a price that was at least vaguely sane, but no.... I'd rather just have the B&O at this point. I don't have it in me to pull panels and deal with all of these issues like the bass roll-off and Forscan adjustments and so on. I am just going to keep it 100% stock and forget this entire idea that I had

there are no forscan adjustments with the b&o setup.

the Mobridge amp has a decent config out of the box but music tuning is extremely subjective. The software isn’t hard to understand and the support is really good.

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