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What Fumoto Valve?

broncorik

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LethalPerformance

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DUSTYcazOREGON

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Just ordered this for my first change. I appreciate it!

https://www.fumotousa.com/f107sx.html
Please let us all know how it fit. If you had to add an extension before putting the valve on? Fitment issues? Does it come with a washer or did you have to add one? Thank you very much! (I have the Fumoto on all of my vehicles and had my Dealer just install one on my Ranger Tremor. I got the one that has the hose attachment. On my Tremor, having the hose attachment./...you no longer need to remove the rock-bash plates. I will assume that will be a similar advantage on the Bronco).
 
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DUSTYcazOREGON

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There's no Fumoto adapter for the 2.7. The 2.7 pan does not have threads. It has a spiral groove. So, to use a Fumoto valve on the 2.7, you would need an adapter with a spiral groove on one end and threads on the other end.

Until somebody comes up with that solution I've got a Ronin.
First I heard of that....no threads in the pan. That throws a clencher in using a Fumoto. Others have installed a Fumoto, wonder how they did it. Comments here anyone?
 

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No one has installed a Fumoto on the 2.7.

First I heard of that....no threads in the pan. That throws a clencher in using a Fumoto. Others have installed a Fumoto, wonder how they did it. Comments here anyone?
 

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broncorik

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No one has installed a Fumoto on the 2.7.
I installed the UPR because:

1. It has a magnet

2. It will more than likely outlast the plastic factory plug

3. It fits with no modifications

4. It allows you to drain the oil by screwing in the valve and having the oil come out in a strong stream but not in the whoooosh you get when the OEM plug is removed

Whatever plug you choose other than the OEM, note that the benefit of the OEM (and intent) is for the plug to be removed completely so that all the oil in the bottom of the pan will drain. Although many folks like the idea of a Fumoto saving time, nothing drains as fast as removing the OEM plug...and if you don't remove whatever plug you use completely, some oil remains in the pan (and whatever contaminants are mixed in with that oil). Even though the UPR drains most of the oil and allows the user to control the flow, I still remove it completely after the oil drains to get the last of the oil out and to check the magnet. Even if someone finagles an adapter that accepts the threaded Fumoto valve, that somehow seats in the plastic pan, such an adapter would make things even more complicated. The Fumoto valve may make an oil change a bit easier because you don't have to unscrew a drain plug or get a deluge of oil all at once, but it won't drain nearly as fast as simply removing the OEM plug...so if saving time is what you seek, stick with the OEM plug and get an open drain pan. If you seek a stronger plug than the plastic OEM one, the UPR works. If you don't care about the time it takes and you want a less messy oil change, the UPR can do that too...you just put a hose over the barb and direct it wherever you want without removing the plug (but then you will still have some oil left in the pan unless you remove that plug completely as well). I don't think there is any magic way to make an oil change easier if you seek getting all the oil out...better to spend an extra 5 minutes and go all in IMHO. Then again, some folks would rather use a pump and suck most of the oil out from the dipstick tube...so there's that...the quest for the better mousetrap continues.
 

Raptor911

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I bought a UPR for my F150 Raptor. Before installing it I barely bump it against the ground and the magnet turned to dust. I can't imagine this happening when being plugged in. I will not use it after I experienced this

BTW .. I have used Fumoto for over 20 years on a dozen cars and currently have one on my 2021 F150 Raptor.

For the plastic oil pans, I rather pull the plug as it drains better (like you said.)

I installed the UPR because:

1. It has a magnet

2. It will more than likely outlast the plastic factory plug

3. It fits with no modifications

4. It allows you to drain the oil by screwing in the valve and having the oil come out in a strong stream but not in the whoooosh you get when the OEM plug is removed

Whatever plug you choose other than the OEM, note that the benefit of the OEM (and intent) is for the plug to be removed completely so that all the oil in the bottom of the pan will drain. Although many folks like the idea of a Fumoto saving time, nothing drains as fast as removing the OEM plug...and if you don't remove whatever plug you use completely, some oil remains in the pan (and whatever contaminants are mixed in with that oil). Even though the UPR drains most of the oil and allows the user to control the flow, I still remove it completely after the oil drains to get the last of the oil out and to check the magnet. Even if someone finagles an adapter that accepts the threaded Fumoto valve, that somehow seats in the plastic pan, such an adapter would make things even more complicated. The Fumoto valve may make an oil change a bit easier because you don't have to unscrew a drain plug or get a deluge of oil all at once, but it won't drain nearly as fast as simply removing the OEM plug...so if saving time is what you seek, stick with the OEM plug and get an open drain pan. If you seek a stronger plug than the plastic OEM one, the UPR works. If you don't care about the time it takes and you want a less messy oil change, the UPR can do that too...you just put a hose over the barb and direct it wherever you want without removing the plug (but then you will still have some oil left in the pan unless you remove that plug completely as well). I don't think there is any magic way to make an oil change easier if you seek getting all the oil out...better to spend an extra 5 minutes and go all in IMHO. Then again, some folks would rather use a pump and suck most of the oil out from the dipstick tube...so there's that...the quest for the better mousetrap continues.
 

broncorik

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I bought a UPR for my F150 Raptor. Before installing it I barely bump it against the ground and the magnet turned to dust. I can't imagine this happening when being plugged in. I will not use it after I experienced this

BTW .. I have used Fumoto for over 20 years on a dozen cars and currently have one on my 2021 F150 Raptor.

For the plastic oil pans, I rather pull the plug as it drains better (like you said.)
Hopefully my magnet will not disintegrate...that would suck. I am with you on the pull the plug (entirely)...the oil gushes but at least I know when the pan is empty! Did UPR address the magnet issue? I imagine if it is widespread they need to do something about it. Maybe they got a batch of magnets from the same place that the batch of bad valves for the 2.7 came from...
 

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I bought a UPR for my F150 Raptor. Before installing it I barely bump it against the ground and the magnet turned to dust. I can't imagine this happening when being plugged in. I will not use it after I experienced this

BTW .. I have used Fumoto for over 20 years on a dozen cars and currently have one on my 2021 F150 Raptor.

For the plastic oil pans, I rather pull the plug as it drains better (like you said.)
Wish I had the time to do enough R&D to see if you could just 3d print the replacement plug you need.
 

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broncorik

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Basically the same as the Ronin I already have. Point is, the Fumoto does not work on the 2.7 without an adapter.
I personally wouldn't want to use the Fumoto even if it did work with the plastic pans we have...I am not convinced that the pro (being able to quickly open the valve) outweighs the cons (slower draining/not allowing the last bit of oil and contaminants to drain because the assembly remains in the pan).

The Ronin valve is a good one...but the reasons I went with UPR is because the UPR design does not require a separate part to screw in to get the oil to drain, and it has stainless locking tabs to keep the assembly from backing out of the pan by itself/unintended.
 

da_jokker

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Yeah I was torn between the UPR and the Ronin....went with Ronin basically because I'm hoping it is a reason it's so expensive!

And ironically I like them how the part that you attach the hose to comes off and doesn't stick out.

I haven't installed it yet so we'll see.
 

broncorik

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Yeah I was torn between the UPR and the Ronin....went with Ronin basically because I'm hoping it is a reason it's so expensive!

And ironically I like them how the part that you attach the hose to comes off and doesn't stick out.

I haven't installed it yet so we'll see.
It reminds me of the part that comes with an OEM 4runner filter...you have to remove a flat, threaded plug from the bottom of the housing, then insert the provided part that has an o-ring on it into the housing, and pushing it into place releases the oil left in the housing...then when the housing is removed afterwards, less of a mess. Cool design except Toyota made the housing out of plastic, and many people over torque them (and then they have to be broken apart to remove...but you can get an aluminum one that is somehow from Toyota in Japan that fits in place of the plastic U.S. one...and the part is cheap). I wonder if Ford will make an aluminum one as well...
 
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DUSTYcazOREGON

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No one has installed a Fumoto on the 2.7.
Someone said they had and Fumoto had a member here testing a plastic Fumoto valve but I understand they cancelled that project. I was not aware the OEM plug had a twist to it and not threads...that changes everything. I will look into that blue one at Lethal Performance.
 

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I was the one testing it. They ended that project over a year ago

Someone said they had and Fumoto had a member here testing a plastic Fumoto valve but I understand they cancelled that project. I was not aware the OEM plug had a twist to it and not threads...that changes everything. I will look into that blue one at Lethal Performance.
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