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Thank you for sharing this. I recently upgraded to 38” Ridge Grapplers on my 21 Badlands with Sasquatch. The factory 4.70s just aren’t quite enough IMO. Would love to go up to a 5:13 or even a 5:38 at some point!
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Dusty

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Thanks @Dusty this is one of the better quality posts around here. Love to see people pushing the envelope and sharing their journey.

I have 4.46’s in my BL non-SAS on 33’s. Still sorting out where I want to go but 37’s crossed my mind but I’d probably regear also. Will be watching your journey. Please keep us updated!

Also noticed it looks like you have the ADV fenders and hood. And the Icon Rebound wheels. Couldn’t tell in that photo but assume you probably did the Pros with inner beadlocks? All items on my dream list. Any feedback on any of it you care to share? A PM is fine so we don’t clutter your thread here.
Please, clutter it up :) Feel free to check out our YouTube channel, we've gone into each of those items fairly in-depth. Yes I have the Rebound Pros. I think it's a great system. I've had traditional beadlocks in the past and these are SO much easier to own, from easier installation to not having to re-torque the bolts all the time, to not leaking, etc. I'll offer a disclaimer that I work for ICON so you can take that for what it's worth. I love these Rebound Pros but I'll be replacing them soon with a new wheel ICON has coming out (more info on that soon :) )
 
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Dusty

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Anyway you could help me with the list of what goes in each spot so I can see what gears work best.
I have the 2.7 Badlands 10 speed
Are you referring to the Grimmjeeper calculator? I know it can look a bit complex on first glance but keep in mind there are a lot of optional fields you don't need to fill out. You'll have to look up the gear ratios for the 10-speed and the low-range for whichever transfer case you have (high range will be 1:1). Note there are 2 columns. Work your way down the left column first, with all of your specs as you are set up now. Transmission gear ratios, transfer case high and low range, your tire size and current differential ratio. Everything else you can leave blank. Then work your way down the right-hand column with whatever setup you're planning to go with. Most will stay the same (trans, transfer case, etc.). There's a handy copy-over button for each section that lets you copy the data from the left-hand column to the right so you don't have to re-type it. Once all that is in you can play around with changing just the diff gears or tire size, or both. At the bottom there are charts that give you things like crawl ratio, rpms at highway speeds, etc.
 

Turbo yzel

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Wow this is rad news !!!!
I wonder about a front and rear set up to match, in the raptor with the new 40’s
Thanks for the info and the write up 👍

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TrailDust

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Been following gear discussions so thanks for confirming the Yukon stuff fits and the install kit has everything needed.

One thing I'm confused with is whether the computer needs to be re-programmed to the new gear ratio? The Ford Performance procal lists being able to change ratios as an option/benefit of the unit but I have no use for it due to 93 octane being unobtanium where I live. What are the effects of the computer still thinking it's running the stock gears? Does the computer use ratio plus tire revs in speed & shift point calculations? Would just playing around with revs/mile with whatever tire size you have until it speed matches a GPS do the trick? Or does it even matter?

Realize you have a manual so probably doesn't matter as much as those of us with the autos. I re-geared my '07 F-150 and didn't think much of it, just changed the tire revs to get the speedo close. But seeing the procal advertising ratio changes makes me think it is something important.
 

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Been following gear discussions so thanks for confirming the Yukon stuff fits and the install kit has everything needed.

One thing I'm confused with is whether the computer needs to be re-programmed to the new gear ratio? The Ford Performance procal lists being able to change ratios as an option/benefit of the unit but I have no use for it due to 93 octane being unobtanium where I live. What are the effects of the computer still thinking it's running the stock gears? Does the computer use ratio plus tire revs in speed & shift point calculations? Would just playing around with revs/mile with whatever tire size you have until it speed matches a GPS do the trick? Or does it even matter?

Realize you have a manual so probably doesn't matter as much as those of us with the autos. I re-geared my '07 F-150 and didn't think much of it, just changed the tire revs to get the speedo close. But seeing the procal advertising ratio changes makes me think it is something important.
@ryannshit should have some feedback, his swap is driving now.
 

ryannshit

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@ryannshit should have some feedback, his swap is driving now.
Yup, I have the 5.29 Nitro kit installed and it is running smoothly. I am very pleased with the performance but I am still not passed the break in period to drive it how I normally do. I did quite a bit of freeway driving this weekend where I had to take it up to 70-75 mph and I have zero complaints and don't think the overall top speed will be impacted much. 5.29 feels solid for the 37x17x13.5 ridge grapplers I'm running on my Badlands non-sas MT.

No reprogramming is needed as far as I can tell. MPH is dead on when passing the road speedometers. I did the forscan wheel size adjustment when I originally put the 37s on.

Loving the kit so far and looking forward to getting it offroad asap.
 
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Bradley Thornton

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Thanks I used this maybe it will help others. Side note with my 38s even 5.38 wouldn't get me back stock. 🤯


Ford Bronco Yukon 5.13 Gears in Factory M210 Housing: It Fits! 21_Bronco_Prelim_Tech_Specs_1
 
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Dusty

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Been following gear discussions so thanks for confirming the Yukon stuff fits and the install kit has everything needed.

One thing I'm confused with is whether the computer needs to be re-programmed to the new gear ratio? The Ford Performance procal lists being able to change ratios as an option/benefit of the unit but I have no use for it due to 93 octane being unobtanium where I live. What are the effects of the computer still thinking it's running the stock gears? Does the computer use ratio plus tire revs in speed & shift point calculations? Would just playing around with revs/mile with whatever tire size you have until it speed matches a GPS do the trick? Or does it even matter?

Realize you have a manual so probably doesn't matter as much as those of us with the autos. I re-geared my '07 F-150 and didn't think much of it, just changed the tire revs to get the speedo close. But seeing the procal advertising ratio changes makes me think it is something important.
My case is complicated by the FAD (front axle disconnect) on my M190, making it pretty much mandatory that I get the ProCal tuner to correct for that. If it was just gear ratio and tire size I could probably adjust for that in Forscan but I don't think anyone has figured out a Forscan solution for the FAD delete yet. I know @Just_Jim was working on it but as far as I know he wasn't able to do it and still has the FAD unit zip-tied to the frame :)
 

Just_Jim

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My case is complicated by the FAD (front axle disconnect) on my M190, making it pretty much mandatory that I get the ProCal tuner to correct for that. If it was just gear ratio and tire size I could probably adjust for that in Forscan but I don't think anyone has figured out a Forscan solution for the FAD delete yet. I know @Just_Jim was working on it but as far as I know he wasn't able to do it and still has the FAD unit zip-tied to the frame :)
Nope, I broke down and got the Ford tuner to finally eliminate all FAD components.
 

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redone17

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Nope, I broke down and got the Ford tuner to finally eliminate all FAD components.
Sorry, please explain this to me like a child. I keep reading about deleting FAD - I guess I don’t understand. Are you getting rid of the ability to lock your front differential? OR is it the opposite. You have a differential that is unable to lock and you need to delete those components. I dunno why I can’t get this concept through my thick head.
 

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Sorry, please explain this to me like a child. I keep reading about deleting FAD - I guess I don’t understand. Are you getting rid of the ability to lock your front differential? OR is it the opposite. You have a differential that is unable to lock and you need to delete those components. I dunno why I can’t get this concept through my thick head.

Front Axle Disconnect: A device that splits the front axle shaft into 2 pieces so the differential is no longer back-driven by the front wheels while in 2wd mode.

It helps with fuel economy at the detriment of another electrical component that might fail at an inopportune time.
 

redone17

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Front Axle Disconnect: A device that splits the front axle shaft into 2 pieces so the differential is no longer back-driven by the front wheels while in 2wd mode.

It helps with fuel economy at the detriment of another electrical component that might fail at an inopportune time.
Thanks. I guess I was getting terms confused and didn’t realize there was an entirely different component that only a few combinations of trim and package have. I now have done more homework - but, your description had led me on the correct path.

I appreciate it.
 

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Dusty,
I am so glad you are doing this & I am already looking forward to reading the install thread! Please let us know how you wire up to the AUX switches, too?
Thanks in advance!
 
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Dusty

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Dusty,
I am so glad you are doing this & I am already looking forward to reading the install thread! Please let us know how you wire up to the AUX switches, too?
Thanks in advance!
I like what @Just_Jim did with placing the locker switches next to the window switches on the center console, so I'll probably copy him. I plan to buy the connectors on Ebay or Amazon and wire them up myself rather than using Ford's harness.
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